How much does the footbed of a quality dress shoe compress over time?

[StillShaving]

This may be a difficult question to answer precisely, but if wearing a quality dress shoe such as those by Allen Edmonds, Alden, or a traditional English maker how much do to the foot beds compress after 3-6-9 months worth of wear? I have a pair of relatively new AE which I find very comfortable, to which I credit the flat and relatively thin footbed, which gives some support but not too much. This is in contrast to the more mass market shoes which provide a thicker, more squishy insole for initial comfort but do not last as long before starting to break down. For non-dress shoe examples, I have a pair of causal Rockports where the insole has worn to the point it has affected the comfort of the shoe...I would otherwise expect having a custom fit insole be a good thing, but it does not feel right. Nike athletic shoes are very comfortable, but I have noticed the same effect as the insoles become worn.

Reason for the concern is the expectation of getting a long life from these higher quality shoes, especially if rotating 3 or more pairs. But even if the outsoles are okay, I am concerned the insoles will lose their comfort prematurely. Is the squishy layer in these shoes thin enough that this is not a concern? Or should I plan on re(in)soling more often than normal?

 

[little Big feather]

I don't know for sure...That is I don't understand what you're saying.
I do know my TRICKER's and CHARLES TYRWHITT (English made) have just leather with a liner with miniscule padding at the heel area.
I wear Insoles in all my shoes that are like this...They are not soft in the complete footbed like my New Balance or Rockport or Born's.
Does this help..

 

[Isaac]

Thats a good question, but the answer can easily be fixed when you resole the shoe. I really cant see the inside cork bed not lasting the life of the sole. I know that B. Nelson replaces the cork when they do a resole.

 

[Randy]

You may find an insert to be useful if the footbed seems hard. I've never had any issue with the footbed of my dress shoes, but they don't usually feel terribly 'soft' to begin with - comfortable certainly, but not like walking in a trainer/tennis shoe... There are any number of inserts on the market that will increase the cushion factor of any shoe noticeably, and inserts have the added bonus of being able to be changed out at will if they begin to lose their benefit.

- Randy

 

[Cuttingboard]

No exact science but I think a lot depends on your weight and how much pressure you put on your feet when you walk. Since switching from cheap cole haan dress shoes to AE, Alden and European manufacturers, I've noticed that I normally have to get my shoes resoled every 3 years depending on my rotation. I walk a lot since I commute via subway to the city and back. You could always buy a pair of insoles at the drug store between re-crafting if yours wears thin. I've never had problems with insoles.

 

[StillShaving]

Thanks for all the feedback. My Allen Edmonds have a Margom/Vera Gomma lug sole (based on raised stamps on the sole which are hard to read especially the Margom part so I may have the spelling wrong). This rubber outer sole has very little give so that may or may not have changed how the rest of the insole was manufactured as compared to their leather bottom shoes. The insert closest to the foot is thin and spongy, it is firm so I don't think it will fail anytime soon but I suspect the cushioning will become compacted at the heel and ball of the foot before the bottom of the shoe is worn out. That was my primary concern. I suppose I can contact AE and ask about a replacement insert if that time ever comes, or try to go gelin with Dr. Scholl's.

My question was influenced by my experience with other shoes as mentioned before. One my all time favorite pair of shoes were a cheap pair of boat shoes styled like those from Sebago. The footbed was just a piece of leather glued to the rubber outer sole, with no other cushioning. It took me a while to understand that this minimal construction was part of the reason for their comfort. I wore them until there were holes through the bottom. After seeing that these AE and other quality shoes have less cushion or fluff in their insoles I am hoping to have a similar experience, but I do see this extra layer that while minimal, looks to be the first part which will fail.

 

[Luscombe]

Don't know if I can answer your question directly.

I am a fan of Allen Edmonds shoes. That said, I hardly ever wear the same pair of shoes two days in a row. I like to rotate as this will more than double the life of your shoes if you just own two pair. As an aside, I also have quite a few pairs of Allen Edmonds, some have been through the recrafting process. Been wearing them for about 20 years. They are completely different from the Russell's, more formal in most cases. It took a while to find the right last for me. After the second recrafting of my 20 year old Walden slip ons, I finally had to retire them. Replaced them with a new pair exactly the same. These are the only slip on I can wear with my narrow feet.

If you are willing to wait a while and take a chance on a sublime fit, try Russell Moccasin in Berlin, WI.

They will make you a custom shoe to the measurements of your feet. All of their shoes can be resoled and recrafted. They are hand made to your feet. I have a few pairs including their Boat shoes, Dress Calf Moc, Walking Moc, Art Carver Chukka and their Oneida. The Oneida is my favorite driving shoe, fits like a glove and have had it resoled twice now. The Boat shoes are comfy and after three years are back for a resole. I have narrow feet so Ralph's measurements of my feet mean I can now just email them with an order and they make it to my measurements on file. I have been wearing Russells for over 15 years. My next order will be a minimalist.

With the exception of an occasional tennis shoe, the only shoes I currently wear are AE or Russell's.

Hope this helps.