I attempted to hone a stainless blade the other night and the results fell short of what I've been hitting lately. This is the first stainless I've come across, and there seems to be a big difference in how the steal responds to the hones. I realize that I should be attacking this blade a little differently but I could use some guidance. How should I proceed from here?
Honing a stainless steel blade
- Thread starter CharlieFoxtrot
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- #3
I increased the lap count. I was wary of using pressure because I didn't want to wreck what little edge I had going for me.
The primary issue with stainless steel vs carbon steel blades is the fact that stainless stainless steels are prone to galling. This means that it is easier to damage the edge through the use of excessive friction. Avoid any stones coarser than about 4000k grit and use as little pressure as possible. Water stones are better than dry hones. As others have said, I don't count strokes, you are done when you are done.
patience grasshopper..... the SS is probably harder on the RC scale than the carbon you are used to.....
just take your time and make sure your bevel is set properly before you go to the next stone....... then get all you can out of that stone before you hit the finisher....
just take your time and make sure your bevel is set properly before you go to the next stone....... then get all you can out of that stone before you hit the finisher....
Stainless blades are generally softer, not harder than carbon blades, but I agree with the other points
This.
I budget time for twice as many laps on my stainless blades, but every blade, stainless or carbon, is different. Every edge condition is different. Even in the same piece of steel, freshly uncovered areas are different.
20 shaves and 20 laps each on 5 stones might do the trick today, but a month from now, those same 20 shaves might need 30 laps.
There's no magic number for "done".
People watch Youtube honing videos that make it look easy, or watch Lynn's DVD where he follows a strict step-up-step-back with specific number of strokes... but as with everything, YMWILLV.
Stainless blades are generally softer, not harder than carbon blades, but I agree with the other points
you right... what i meant to say is the stainless is more abrasion resistant and therefore "slower" on the hone....
when i hone SS i spend more time on the bevel setter, make sure u are done. this yields the best results 4 me. i take my time anytime i hone u are only done when the razor says so, no matter what grit u are on. YMMV as always.
You better post a pic of the razor....just so we can be sure...
Stainless is a differient animal material wise. Softer than carbon, yet more abrasion resistant. I was having trouble popping the edge on my Friodur off my coticule. I doubled my normal stroke count and that seemed to work for me.
Jon
Jon
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- #14
Thanks for the feedback. I don't really count the number of laps. I've been trying to pay attention to what the hones are telling me by feel and sound. Since I'm only a few months into honing, I always suspect my bevel is junk if I encounter problems later in the progression. I started the razor from scratch and worked through it. With some persistence I got it shave ready. It was definitely the first time I've ever wanted to throw a razor through a window though.
Proper defenestration etiquette requires that you first open the window before throwing any object out.
Like said, when it's done it's done, sooner nor later...
The stainless used in razors isn't very ambrasion resistant. It's often AEB-L or something very similar. It's one of the few stainless steels that actually can take a true, shave-ready edge.
The stainless used in razors isn't very ambrasion resistant. It's often AEB-L or something very similar. It's one of the few stainless steels that actually can take a true, shave-ready edge.
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