Well hey there guys, well let me tell you the story. I Barely purchased a used car, 1992 Civic, after my toyota camry was totaled in an accident. I was driving the civic on saturday and when I was idling at a light the RPM started dropping, the car started shaking a bit and it turned off on me. I put it on parking, and cranked it up the car started up but when I pushed on the accelerator the car hesitated and it wouldnt really accelerate until like 5 seconds later it took off like normal. Fast forward to today same thing happened, I was at a red light and could feel the car shaking, the RPM dropping and it turned off on me again. I tried to start it up again and it started just like last time, it hesitated when I pressed down on the accelerator and didn't have much strength until like seconds later it took off like normal. I parked the car and it didn't wanna turn on this time, it would just crank but wouldn't turn over. I tried again after 10 minutes and it turned on but after being on for like 2 minutes it turned off again. I tried again 5 minutes later, the car turned on, i drove it around the parking lot and I took off home about 12 miles from there. Now it drove mostly normal, except the car would jerk forward a bit when breaking. I called one of my friends and he suggested it might be a faulty fuel pump or a bad alternator or distributor. I really don't know and I'm so stressed cause i'm broke after buying the car and getting insurance for it. So you car sawwy guys, what do you think?
Help With Car issues
- Thread starter Phoenix.
- Start date
Sounds like it could be a leak in one of the vacuum lines.
- Thread starter
- #3
Would the cause the car to stutter when trying to start, but drive fine on my way home?
take it to a mechanic with a great reputation in your neighborhood
Hear is a tip, and how I fixed my car problems.
Go to your local Community college and take a auto shop class.
real mechanic's teach the class, they are not going to rip you off because they get payed to teach you car repair.
You learn a bunch about your car and every one else's car in the class.
You can order parts threw the school at garage prices, and yes it takes that long to deliver the part.
In the long run it saved me more than I ever spent on all the classes.
Even when i go to a garage to have something fixed because I can order the part myself, they know that I know cars.
Go to your local Community college and take a auto shop class.
real mechanic's teach the class, they are not going to rip you off because they get payed to teach you car repair.
You learn a bunch about your car and every one else's car in the class.
You can order parts threw the school at garage prices, and yes it takes that long to deliver the part.
In the long run it saved me more than I ever spent on all the classes.
Even when i go to a garage to have something fixed because I can order the part myself, they know that I know cars.
My first guess would be something fuel line related. Clogged fuel line, fuel filter and failing fuel pump. It would only cost a couple bucks to get a fuel filter at the local parts store and it may fix it.
I'm definitely agreeing with a possible fuel line issue. I'd throw in a new fuel filter and dump in a can of fuel injector cleaner. When you replace the fuel filter, look inside the old one for any signs of rust. If you can't see inside it, give it a few shakes to see if you can get any particles to come out. If you get rust, you will need to take it to a mechanic. If you don't see any rust, run the car for a bit and see if it helps.
Stupid question, but have you checked/changed your oil lately? Engines can sound rough and quit like what you're saying if they are very low on oil. Once you get them revved up, the engine can overpower the fact that it doesn't have lubrication and run "ok" until it warms up. If this is the case, you will need to check oil loss/consumption every few days until you see if the leak has been fixed.
Stupid question, but have you checked/changed your oil lately? Engines can sound rough and quit like what you're saying if they are very low on oil. Once you get them revved up, the engine can overpower the fact that it doesn't have lubrication and run "ok" until it warms up. If this is the case, you will need to check oil loss/consumption every few days until you see if the leak has been fixed.
God, I would LOVE to have the time to take one of these classes!
As to the OP's problem, I had a problem with my old Nissan Maxima that sounds similar. It turned out to be a bad ignition coil. I had a fantastic mechanic who told me what the problem was, and the specific part number I needed to order (this was in Poland, and since it was an old Maxima the parts weren't sold by the dealerships or supply shops).
There is an app you can download called Torque, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en,that turns your phone into an OBD2 scanner for all cars back to '00 and CAN work for cars back to '96. From the sound of it, it might help $$-wise. Bluetooth OBD2 plugs aren't expensive on Amazon.
I agree. Find a good diagnostic guy in your area.
Tons of things can cause the symptoms your car is having.
Next time it happens, get out of the car and look at the catalytic converter right after it dies. Years ago I was working on a friends car with similar problems. The catalytic converter was fouled up and as the car ran it would get hotter and more restricted until the car stalled. After it cooled down it would start up again, only to continue the cycle. When I was working on it I happened to look under the vehicle to see a RED HOT catalytic converter. I replaced it and the problem never returned.
Its a long shot, but it wont cost you anything to peek under there and check.
Next time it happens, get out of the car and look at the catalytic converter right after it dies. Years ago I was working on a friends car with similar problems. The catalytic converter was fouled up and as the car ran it would get hotter and more restricted until the car stalled. After it cooled down it would start up again, only to continue the cycle. When I was working on it I happened to look under the vehicle to see a RED HOT catalytic converter. I replaced it and the problem never returned.
Its a long shot, but it wont cost you anything to peek under there and check.
where I took the Auto shop classes they were always scheduled Saturday mornings, so that normal people could take them.
Fuel pump is my first guess. Second guess is the oxygen sensor.
Did your check engine light go on and stay on? If so, you can get an OBD2 reader for about $50. They are a big help and will save you a lot of cash.
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9550...qid=1354138451&sr=1-6&keywords=obd+ii+scanner
Did your check engine light go on and stay on? If so, you can get an OBD2 reader for about $50. They are a big help and will save you a lot of cash.
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9550...qid=1354138451&sr=1-6&keywords=obd+ii+scanner
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I usually use my father-in-laws Car Chip Pro. You plug it in and it will give you the trouble codes and you can search around on the internet. Someone else has most likely written about their problem and how they fixed it. I recently watched a youtube video fix on a problem my car was having and a buddy and I got the problem fixed.
I don't think this car will have OBD2. OBD2 started in 1996. He has a '92. This will probably have OBD1 and yes there are scanners for OBD1.
Yes, 1992 would be OBD1. You can still use a scanner (mine does both) and that may find the issue faster and cheaper than throwing parts at it.
It does sound like a fuel pressure problem to me though. That could be filter, pump or even a bad fuel line.
Most auto parts stores will scan the codes for you. Some will rent the tool. Write down the codes and google them. Along with the fuel problems, Honda's have a main switch that goes bad. It will fail intermittently. It is a black/brown box under the dash on the drivers side. About $100 bucks to fix. Rock Auto is a great source for cheap parts.
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