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Help: Wedge hole to close to blade, any suggestions?

I finally started my first set of scales for a CJB using free blanks by NewBengall. I got them shaped/sanded and everything but ran into a problem. I drew a line to where the wedge should be, but then I also used this line to drill a hole :blush: (First restore, wasn't thinking till I finished drilling)
Now my hole is to far back just slightly, anyone have any ideas what do? I could angle the wedge so it goes over the hole? I can't move the wedge back because it'll hit the blade when it comes down.
I can supply pictures when I get home but just wondered if anyone has any suggestions.

Thanks
 
So you drilled the hole where the end of the wedge should be?

You could put a fake pin there. Use a washer and pin it on the rod by holding the rod on a vice. Cut the rod the thickness of the scales and glue the new "pin". Make the regular wedge hole.

The result should look like two pins, one of them in the correct place, the second at the end of the wedge.
 
Yep Doc, I drilled a hole where the end of the wedge should be. Which sucks but its okay still learning the process
Thanks for the advice, I'll take a look into that
Been bugging me all night cause I can't seem to figure it out. But the fake pin would look better than a random hole in the scales.
 
i doubt a CJB requires much torque created by the wedge, if it's anything like the feather, so i'd just glue it in and put a fake pin or perhaps some wood sawdust/glue mix?
 
include the "real" hole, then make a string of "fake" holes along the entire length of the scales, equally spaced back to the pivot.

carve out a small area on the inside of the scales and a slit line on the inside of the scales connecting them all.

insert battery in the "small area", LED's in each of the holes, run wires in the slit, and add switch so that when you open the razor, the battery turns on and all of the lights blink.

:lol:

I tell you what, I look at the hollow inside of a GD's scales and I just keep thinking "there's room for a battery in there, dang it. Maybe some lights and a vibration thingy and we can make a "real man's" version of one of those vibrating cartridge deelie-whoppers and laugh our head's off at how obscene it looks. I know about the lighted safety kamisori but this would be even one step closer to the doors of Hades...
 
For a real classy look, drill a hole on the other side near the pivot and make a slit along the length of the scale and lay a brass rod or a copper wire in it. Make a 90degrees bend at the end of the wire to put it through the hole and glue it in.
It will be like a gold piping.
Where I got this idea? Look at this:
$jtm45_front.jpg
 
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Damm, Is there enough room to take a bit more of the wedge end off the scales? then you could use the same hole with i slightly shorter blade?
If you dont find a fix PM me and i'll replace the blanks for you.
 
include the "real" hole, then make a string of "fake" holes along the entire length of the scales, equally spaced back to the pivot.

carve out a small area on the inside of the scales and a slit line on the inside of the scales connecting them all.

insert battery in the "small area", LED's in each of the holes, run wires in the slit, and add switch so that when you open the razor, the battery turns on and all of the lights blink.

:lol:

I tell you what, I look at the hollow inside of a GD's scales and I just keep thinking "there's room for a battery in there, dang it. Maybe some lights and a vibration thingy and we can make a "real man's" version of one of those vibrating cartridge deelie-whoppers and laugh our head's off at how obscene it looks. I know about the lighted safety kamisori but this would be even one step closer to the doors of Hades...

that sounds like KITT from knight rider... [voice=G'DI.T.T] "Oliver, I am the Gold Dollar Industries Three Thousand. You may call me "G'D.I.T.T." [/voice]
 
LoL Jon I'll design a black KITT razor shouldn't be to hard. Only problem is where would I put the battery? to light up 6 LED would require a decent amount of power
Maybe double watch batteries on the wedge? Or extend the wedge out to accomindate the battery haha.

Thanks for all your help, the pin doesn't hit the razor when it closes so I just notched the back of the wedge and I'll glued it in when its time to assemble it.

Now time to learn how to use CA haha doesn't seem that hard but I know it'll become a mess

I'll post pictures tonight of my first restore (Hopefully)!
 
LoL Jon I'll design a black KITT razor shouldn't be to hard. Only problem is where would I put the battery? to light up 6 LED would require a decent amount of power
Maybe double watch batteries on the wedge? Or extend the wedge out to accomindate the battery haha.

Thanks for all your help, the pin doesn't hit the razor when it closes so I just notched the back of the wedge and I'll glued it in when its time to assemble it.

Now time to learn how to use CA haha doesn't seem that hard but I know it'll become a mess

I'll post pictures tonight of my first restore (Hopefully)!

the batteries coud be in a hollowed out part of the wedge extending into a hollowed half of the scales or they could go on the outside of the scales…


Make sure it has Super Pursuit Mode

 
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Heya,
Thanks for all your help here is my first razor restoration. Thanks Newtobengall
$20130315_194054.jpg
The CA isn't perfect but I ran out, I don't know how to make it perfect. Maybe I'll try tung oil next
 
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Heya,
Thanks for all your help here is my first razor restoration. Thanks Newtobengall
View attachment 318609
The CA isn't perfect but I ran out, I don't know how to make it perfect. Maybe I'll try tung oil next
Your welcome. Yeah its not as easy as it looks to get right, So don't beat yourself up you did well for your first attemp. Ive done heaps, and just the other day i stuffed a near finished set of customs. had to sand them right back and start over. The key is even, and lots of coats. I find old teashirts are the best for rags that dont put dust in your finish. once you get a good atleast 6 coats on, its just a matter of sanding again. i'll grab a piece of 600 grit and make it even and dull (hardest part of the sanding) then 1200 3-5 mins, then 2000 5 mins, then 3000 and it will almost shine as soon as the 3000 hits it(until then its dull) 2 mins on 3000, then HAND polish 5 mins. i use car wax on CA.
result with crap camera. Also shows same timber in an oil finish.

$SL373265.jpg
 
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