Since you asked: I would go for one of each type!! 
You need some of each after all!! I suggest you start with one Slim and one Tech!!
You need some of each after all!! I suggest you start with one Slim and one Tech!!
Help Me Choose Which Vintage Gillette to Get! And TTO vs 3 Piece
- Thread starter sidgravy
- Start date
I used to see pictures of the Super Adjustables and invariably they looked inferior to the Fatboys and Slims: the black handle (usually looking scuffed); the exaggerated 70s style font for the numbers...
Then I bought one, just to have a 70s vintage Gillette in my collection, and found that they look much more attractive in real life (if in good condition, which mine is), and are very, very nice to shave with. Mine is a true Black Beauty with the plastic base plate, and it's a very classy razor. I never expected to like it is much as I do. It's now firmly in my rotation.
Tech is good start,
Same here.
Start with the early three-piece razors and work your way up the evolution. There are some great razors to be tried. It's also fun to research their history as you go. Who knows, one of them just might become your preferred shaver for a while. I enjoyed a 1930s Goodwill for 20 years before buying a modern razor that, ironically, was essentially a clone of the old Tech.
The collector world needs more like you, who are users.
One day far far away there will only be a few unused left if all you users keep using nice razors, then I'll be able to afford a Space X flight funded solely from my collection, yeah right!!
My personal choice is (obviously) vintage TTO's. Not that I have a problem with 3-piece or 2-piece razors. I just happen to like the little magic trick where you twist the bottom of the handle and butterflies come out. 
My first razor was an adjustable slim my dad bought for me in 1964 and I used it until carts came out and it was a good razor as I recall. I lost it in a move about 25 years ago.
I’ve been wet shaving for 50 years and I’ve shaved with almost every Gillette DE. All the Gillettes are excellent razors. The Tech, IMHO, is the perfect razor. Since they all work very well, perhaps your choice should be based solely on aesthetics and price.
Fatboys are overpriced and the thick head makes it somewhat clumsy. The Slim is a better razor, and the SuperAdjustable is better still, especially the post ‘77 model with nylon base plate (Black Beauty). It is the best adjustable DE in the world, IMHO. I got my never-used Black Beauty for $10.
All SuperSpeeds are excellent. Old Types, Improveds and News all shave well (the OC is really not more aggressive) but they can be pricey. Aristocrats and the other gold plated models were beautiful when new, but probably not now. If it still looks good, expect to pay top dollar.
I have a gold Fat-handle Tech that looks beautiful and shaves well. It could be my only razor. It cost about $12 as I recall. It will last forever. That one, or the Black Beauty would be my choice for my one and only. But, honestly, you cannot go wrong with any Gillette.
Fatboys are overpriced and the thick head makes it somewhat clumsy. The Slim is a better razor, and the SuperAdjustable is better still, especially the post ‘77 model with nylon base plate (Black Beauty). It is the best adjustable DE in the world, IMHO. I got my never-used Black Beauty for $10.
All SuperSpeeds are excellent. Old Types, Improveds and News all shave well (the OC is really not more aggressive) but they can be pricey. Aristocrats and the other gold plated models were beautiful when new, but probably not now. If it still looks good, expect to pay top dollar.
I have a gold Fat-handle Tech that looks beautiful and shaves well. It could be my only razor. It cost about $12 as I recall. It will last forever. That one, or the Black Beauty would be my choice for my one and only. But, honestly, you cannot go wrong with any Gillette.
I would respectfully slightly disagree with your assessment of the 195 Adjustable Richard.Many like the 195 Adjustable (Fatboy) and many do not - I think it is a dull, clumsy sledgehammer - over rated and over priced, I think the Slim is far superior. Many like like Rockets or Aristocrats or whatever - I find them a little uninspiring; my favourite Gillette razor is the English Goodwill. But..... none of that matters - you could get 100% universal approval for a razor, then buy it, and then hate it. If you have no idea what you like then it makes sense, to me at least, to go for something relatively inexpensive, with medium aggression, that the majority of people like, and very few people actively dislike. One that has been around for decades and is still used and loved by many - my answer is the Tech. Try it and see what you like and do not like about it - then go from there. You may decide it is the only razor you will ever need, many millions of men made the same decision from the 1930s until today. Tech for the win - good luck
I greatly enjoyed my 1968 N4 (last ever made) Slim, but while a superb shaver, I found the ergonomics slightly off, in terms of handle length. Very subjective, but I found it 'unbalanced' the shave. However, a beautiful razor aesthically. It is of the early 60's and in that sense is somewhat 'futuristic' in terms of looks.
I may pick up one of the post 68' adjustables, such as the short handled Super Adjustable 85 (?), although they seem rather scarce and costly in the market. Just for kicks. Again, a design of its time, also factoring in a considerable cheapening of parts and materials used sadly.
I rather enjoy the 195 for its relatively short handle, and its look which seems a signature of mid-1950's design. I rather like that. It is a razor of its time, and I rather appreciate it's looks. I find it shaves as well as the Slim, and compared to some modern monstrosities it is actually rather light weight and dare I say delicate. I find no issues with its rather elevated head shape. It is like a 40's Super Speed or a 1953 English Rocket or Red Tip in that respect. Just go slightly more 75 degrees rather than 180 degrees on the WTG first pass on the upper lip.
I deeply appreciate the classic Gillettes of the design and development arc that are eptomised by the period they were released in.
Again my vintage user 'mysticm' kicks in, but I try to appreciate the razor in its time, and what the zeitgeist in terms of style preferences were at that time, and tune my shave into that.
Totally agree in terms of your thoughts on the Tech!
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Alum, let me encourage you to buy a post-77 109. I don’t think 84’s were made after ‘77 and the nylon base plate models are the best of the lot.
My personal choice is (obviously) vintage TTO's. Not that I have a problem with 3-piece or 2-piece razors. I just happen to like the little magic trick where you twist the bottom of the handle and butterflies come out.
I hold the knob with one hand
and twist the middle of the handle with my other hand.
One more FB Tech vote, great place to start. I have many USA Gillettes, but the English FB Tech is my top Tech.
Or have you picked already?
Or have you picked already?
If you are like most of us or at least like me you will have all of the razors you listed before you know it. People can give all the opinions and feedback that they want and I find it may help you decide what to get first but that urge to feel for myself and see what you may be missing will still be there. Some people will hate a razor that another loves and you will never know what side of the fence you are on till you try for yourself. As long as they are reasonably priced, go nuts. You can typically get a lot of great vintage razors for the price of one mid range new model, and I mean a lot of razors. Especially if you are a little patient and watch for deals and razor lots. Happy hunting and keep us posted on when you have the collection if the bug gets you.
Being stateside my experience with English made razors is somewhat limited. I have a Rocket, a white handled Slim Twist, and a Flat Bottom Tech. All of the razors provide comfortable, smooth shaves. You can’t go wrong with any of them. The added benefits of these razors: with care they should last a long time and they won’t break the bank.
I've used multiple Techs, a late 40s Superspeed, a Slim, and multiple Superadjustables. Take all of this as YMMV, just IMHO.
My thoughts:
The Techs are mild but "bitey" in my opinion, which I attribute to having a somewhat large blade exposure for the gap. They're a little deceiving I think. But they are a nice compact head which allows you to get places easily.
I loved the feel in hand of the Superspeed and the design, and was a beautifully smooth efficient shave but too close for my comfort. It's the only razor (of all the razors I've used, including a straight) that left me a little disturbed in that I didn't realize how close I was shaving while I was shaving.
I love the Slim and Superadjustables, but the Slim is milder, which I've learned I like more. I've kept one of my Superadjustables just because I like it so much but I pretty much only use my Slim and Muramasa usually, probably my Slim a little more often.
As for TTOs versus 3-piece razors:
3-piece razors are just more "solid" for lack of a better way of putting it, you can clamp the blade more tightly with a solid piece of metal. They also allow for a more compact design so on average you can maneuver them better into tight angles, and imho have a more "direct contact feel", like I feel like my hand sensations translate into razor movement more closely. On the other hand, imho they are less safe to load and a little more futzy because you have to take apart the razor instead of, well, TTO.
TTO razors are easier to load and unload. Although I think they are less manueverable that's maybe dependent on the adjustable vs nonadjustable TTO: I think there's less of a difference between a nonadjustable TTO and a three-piece in maneuverability. I don't think there's more blade chatter, but you do have to be more careful to close the doors all the way down; if you don't things will be a little looser. They are "noisier" which can be good or bad, in the sense the sound is extra feedback. I do think you have to be a bit more careful in buying a vintage TTO just because there's more moving parts and more room for damage. You kind of need to be careful that as the doors open and close, they do so evenly; it's not uncommon for the gap to be uneven on vintage TTOs which leads to weirdness in use. I think it's less of an issue with 3-pieces because the design is simpler.
I guess if I were getting a vintage Gillette I'd get a TTO, probably a Slim or a Fatboy (Fatboy will be thicker, shorter handle and more mild but otherwise similar), maybe a Superadjustable. But you really can't go wrong with a lot of vintage Gillettes. If you're starting out a Tech is a good 3-piece razor, sort of iconic and a standard you'll compare everything against.
My thoughts:
The Techs are mild but "bitey" in my opinion, which I attribute to having a somewhat large blade exposure for the gap. They're a little deceiving I think. But they are a nice compact head which allows you to get places easily.
I loved the feel in hand of the Superspeed and the design, and was a beautifully smooth efficient shave but too close for my comfort. It's the only razor (of all the razors I've used, including a straight) that left me a little disturbed in that I didn't realize how close I was shaving while I was shaving.
I love the Slim and Superadjustables, but the Slim is milder, which I've learned I like more. I've kept one of my Superadjustables just because I like it so much but I pretty much only use my Slim and Muramasa usually, probably my Slim a little more often.
As for TTOs versus 3-piece razors:
3-piece razors are just more "solid" for lack of a better way of putting it, you can clamp the blade more tightly with a solid piece of metal. They also allow for a more compact design so on average you can maneuver them better into tight angles, and imho have a more "direct contact feel", like I feel like my hand sensations translate into razor movement more closely. On the other hand, imho they are less safe to load and a little more futzy because you have to take apart the razor instead of, well, TTO.
TTO razors are easier to load and unload. Although I think they are less manueverable that's maybe dependent on the adjustable vs nonadjustable TTO: I think there's less of a difference between a nonadjustable TTO and a three-piece in maneuverability. I don't think there's more blade chatter, but you do have to be more careful to close the doors all the way down; if you don't things will be a little looser. They are "noisier" which can be good or bad, in the sense the sound is extra feedback. I do think you have to be a bit more careful in buying a vintage TTO just because there's more moving parts and more room for damage. You kind of need to be careful that as the doors open and close, they do so evenly; it's not uncommon for the gap to be uneven on vintage TTOs which leads to weirdness in use. I think it's less of an issue with 3-pieces because the design is simpler.
I guess if I were getting a vintage Gillette I'd get a TTO, probably a Slim or a Fatboy (Fatboy will be thicker, shorter handle and more mild but otherwise similar), maybe a Superadjustable. But you really can't go wrong with a lot of vintage Gillettes. If you're starting out a Tech is a good 3-piece razor, sort of iconic and a standard you'll compare everything against.
I enjoy both 3 piece and tto razors. I’d recommend getting a tech and a 1948-50 aristocrat
I agree. I have a 1950 aristocrat that I bought at an estate sale for $10. It was promoted to my daily driver. With a Nacet blade, it gives a close comfortable shave with no weepers. It could use a replate though.
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