Heavy facial beard and DE shaving don't seem to go well together

[mbmullins76]

Hello,

I have a very heavy facial beard and have been DE shaving since summer. I have noticed though that when I am use my Hydro 3 I get a much better shave then when I use my DE. I use the same prep for both which consists of AOS badger brush and AOS cream or CO Bigelow. I have also started to use cold water instead of warm and I do get less irritation and a better shave out of both.

So how do you heavy beard DE users get that bbs out of a DE? I also have sensitive skin on my neck. My cheeks I can get bbs with either razor but on my neck and chin the Hydro will do remarkably better. It has me wondering if I should just stick with the Hydro.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[Jim]

Matt are you doing multiple passes? What razors and blades are you using?

Welcome to B&B!

 

[HoosierTrooper]

The Red Tip was designed for heavy beards so it might be a better choice. An adjustable might also work since you can customize the setting for the best results. You don't mention what blade you're using but they can make a big difference

Or you might consider trying a single edge razor, either a Gem or a Schick injector. Those big, stiff single edge blades can mow through pretty much anything.

 

[Kyle]

Matt are you doing multiple passes? What razors and blades are you using?

Yep. Lots of factors can play in. We need details, man, details.

 

[mbmullins76]

Sorry, I guess more details would help.

I started with a Merkur. I don't know the model, it was a new 28 dollar one off of Amazon. I started with Merkur blades and have since used Wilk swords from Walmart and some Astra's that a very nice member sent me.

Since the Merkur I have purchased a Red Tip and a 40's Super Speed. I have been using the Red Tip for over a month and haven't used the SS yet (trying to get the technique down before switching through a lot of razors). I have not been able to tell a difference between any of the three blades I have tried.

For my DE passes, I normally do a WTG and ATG with a XTG every now and then. With the Hydro I can do a WTG then ATG.

Matt

 

[danparker77]

just some thoughts.......are you sure your WTG is WTG. As far as the neck goes it could be an angle problem. It is hard to get the correct angle below the jawline IMO. I too think an SE mows down a thick beard with little effort. You might want to look at going that direction.

 

[Kentos]

You could try different blades also. Red IPs and feathers are remarkable depending on the razor they are in. I would think a feather in a red tip would be a deadly combination on whiskers, as well as the skin on your face so good technique is essential. +1 on the single edge blade razors. A 1912 can be had for under 10.00 and shave like a dream for me.

 

[Duke of Somerset]

I'm going to play devil's advocate and say if a multi-blade razor works better for you, then go ahead and use it. If you're intent on sticking with DE, I'd advise trying a sharper blade and working on your blade angle. You may also wish to grab an adjustable razor (Gillette Slim or Merkur Progress are both good) and play around with blade exposure to see if you can get a closer shave.

 

[DavyRay]

I think I have a heavy beard, and I get good results with a Gillette SS Red Tip, Personna Red label blades, and VDH or C.O. Bigelow for lather.

Technique for the DE can take a few weeks to get right. I do best with an aggressive angle (red tip handle just off parallel to the skin surface), and a very delicate touch (just enough pressure to skim off the lather).

With good technique, and good prep, I don't worry with WTG or direction much at all. All directions work pretty well. I have one place near my chin where I have to go ATG to get it close, though.

Are you stretching your skin to get it taut and make the hairs stand up? That is key to getting a good shave on my neck. The hydro does that by making you use lots of pressure. The DE shave is almost no pressure, so the stretching has to be done by using face muscles or the off hand.

Those are my best guesses.
Good Luck!

 

[Codfish]

My own beard is not particularly heavy, but it is very wiry. When I skip a day shaving, it's a challenge.

I use a sharp blade (Feather or Iridium), do a thorough prep, and use an aggressive razor, like the Red Tip. I need to do a steady beard rediction (WTG, Diagonal, XTG, and then ATG). You may be trying to go against the grain too soon. I know that in my case, going ATG, even on the third pass, is going to cause discomfprt and irritation. Using MWF also helps me greatly.

Best of luck.

 

[Drybonz]

I prefer an open comb for my tough beard. Technique is important too... different from cartridge razor shaving.

 

[L. Martino]

Hi Matt,

By now your technique should be coming together pretty well, so a switch to a different razor would be fine. Couple of things come to mind right away regarding a more aggressive set up.

As another member posted, you could try using an open comb type razor. Many people find em to often be a bit more aggressive than the safety bar types. From personal experience I found the ones with the Old Type heads (Single Ring for example) to have the most bite. I wouldn't suggest that as your first OC sample.

You could buy an adjustable and crank the thing up. Done deal, as long as the razor fits you. I use mine as a non adjustable, since I don't normally screw around with perfection.

There's a few other blades you could try. I like both the Gillette SharpEdge and a Feather when it comes to sharp blades. The thing is though, you'd want to try those blades in your normal razor before using em in a new one. That might solve your problem right there.

Yeah, it's lots of trial and error in the beginning, but you're well past the toughest part. Now you can evaluate things, since you sorta know what to look for.

Hope that helps,

Martin

 

[grouse79]

I've found Feathers mow down my thick stubble easily. Usually I use a Tech but other razors have worked well. I have tried less sharp blades and whilst they have mostly resulted in a decent shave. there is a degree of tugging and pulling even on the very first use that isn't there when using a Feather. I usually do 3 passes which will get me very smooth. 3 blade cartridges took some effort to get any sort of adequate shave which is why I have not used one since trying a DE. However, if the Hydro works well for you, and you don't feel you're being stung for the replacement cartridges, I'd suggest sticking with it.

 

[akokandy]

Injectors and SEs are my weapons of choice. I don't have tons of facial hair, but my hairs are seriously tough and they grow very densely where they grow. The thicker SE and Injector blades basically mow through everything. If you're really into aggressive, you could go with and OC Micromatic, one of the fiercest safety razors ever made.

 

[Cheech]

I share your pain. I, too, have a heavy beard and sensitive neck. My first DE was a Merkur and I ran away from that thing screaming. (Not a bag on Merkur, it just didn't work well for me.) I tried a few others, along with time and patience, and eventually found a setup that works well for me.

First off, I (as others) would recommend re-reading the tutorials. Simple things like prep and technique are king, and solve most problems.

I'd say to not be too afraid of trying a few different razors. What works for you might not work for someone else and vice versa. For me, the SS and redtips didn't work so well. My Fatboy, New Standard, and Bostonian all work very well for me.

SEs might also be a option. I've had good luck with them and the single blade really seems to hold up well to a heavy beard.

Blades are also something to try. Blades seem to be a very personal choice and the adage of "YMMV" is truer no where else.

If its any consolation, even the Spishak Mach 20 with industrial grade axle-grease lubrication would tear my face up fiercely (by that, I mean bloodier than AAA hockey). Now, I get consistently good, close shaves with a DE.

 

[Kyle]

This is just me spitballing, Matt, but here are some ideas:
1. A cool/cold water shave won't do much to soften your whiskers. This means you'll need a pretty aggressive setup and you'll need to change your blade often. With a more aggressive setup, you give yourself less margin for error in terms of both nicks and burn. My own preference is hot water with moderately aggressive gear, but that's just me.
2. For DE shaving, I'm a believer in thicker growth = more passes. You might consider 2 passes WTG before ATG or WTG, XTG, ATG. Somewhere around here is an old post from Ron that discusses a 4-pass shave, and I think its certainly worth reading.
3. Last idea is to continue sampling different blades and creams/soaps. Every gent here will swear by a different combo they've found which really does it right for them.

 

[gull]

Make sure you're trying different blades!

 

[FL shaver]

I prefer an open comb for my tough beard. Technique is important too... different from cartridge razor shaving.

I, too, was thinking open comb. How about a slant?

 

[mbmullins76]

Thank you for the replies everyone!

 

[kingfisher]

I think the title of your post is actually pretty accurate. The heavier and denser your beard, the harder it is to get a really great shave with a DE, and the more you will benefit from a multi-blade cartridge like a Trac II or Atra.

I've gotten to where I can get a really good shave with a DE, but it's a lot of work. In small areas on my right neck where the hairs are not as thickly packed, it's a cinch to get a great shave with a DE, so I can understand that for a guy with a light beard, a DE is pretty much a dream machine.

For those of us with thick, heavy beards, though, the DE requires a lot of patience and time.

I still like using it, though. Some days I have to pull out a cartridge razor to clean up, though. But I'm successful with my DE about 75% of the time.

I have found that using an adjustable and decreasing the aggressiveness for each pass has helped. Good luck.