What's new

Handle for Gillette Tech

I know this is the brush section, but a few of the guys pointed me here.

I was wondering if anyone could advise me on how to make sure that the tech screws into a wooden handle I'm planning on making, and how to make sure the wood doesn't rot?

Thank you so much,
Cam
 
Seal the wood with something water proof. Superglue if you have a lathe to apply it.

When you attach the head of the razor to the handle, the screw will destroy the waterproof finish on the tip of the handle, So, you may want to dip the screw into some sort of sealant before attaching it to the handle, this way any exposed wood, or wood metal contact would remain sealed.

That's just me thinking out loud. I've never done that before.
 
You're going to need some sort of threaded collar you can set into the handle. That way the Tech head can screw into the collar and not damage the wood. The other way I've done it is to cut the top 1/2" or so off the top of the handle, drill a post hole in the bottom and a corresponding hole in the handle. Use a piece of metal rod etc to join the two pieces with epoxy glue. It helps if you don't need the Tech handle anymore:biggrin1:. Also try and get the 2 pieces the same diameter for a clean look. Another possible solution might be to use a Chicago screw extension. Try your hardware store. If you like wooden handles TGN sells a 3 piece DE head that seems to be a copy of the EJ89 head which works really well with your own handles. Seal the wood with a good polyurethane. Several coats will do it

Good luck
 
Maybe consider putting a washer or something metal like that to cover the face of the handle.
That way no exposed wood would be exposed (does that make any sense??)
 
Use the spindle off a cracked ball ended handle, epoxy it to the wood, seal the wood with marine spar varnish.
Use a dense tropical hardwood.
 
The main problem is the Tech head, which has to screw into the handle somehow. That's why you need a threaded collar inset into the wood which can then be sealed. Or one of the other suggestions. See if you've got a woodturning club/assoc etc in town or ask on line what they would do.
 
Get a threaded insert form the hardwarwe store. They are meant to pound in or screw into the wood, then have a threaded female end for the head to screw in (so to speak, gotta love harware store language).

Or you can just get a threaded nut and dig out a hole in the handle to glue it into.

Here are some examples:
proxy.php

proxy.php

proxy.php
 
Another method, which I have done, is to find a size of brass rod that can be threaded to match the Tech - 10/32, if I remember correctly. Drill the handle, epoxy the brass rod in, and thread it with a tap after the epoxy has set up. I filed a notch on the end of the rod so it would stick good in the wood handle. You can even up the length of the brass after the epoxy sets up. PM me if you want more info on this method.
Skip
 
Use the spindle off a cracked ball ended handle, epoxy it to the wood, seal the wood with marine spar varnish.
Use a dense tropical hardwood.

It helps to thread a screw, no head, into the section of Tech handle, and epoxy that into your wood handle. This method works well. Easier that buying a metal lathe, and turning your own metal transition piece.
 
Get a threaded insert form the hardwarwe store. They are meant to pound in or screw into the wood, then have a threaded female end for the head to screw in (so to speak, gotta love harware store language).

Or you can just get a threaded nut and dig out a hole in the handle to glue it into.

Here are some examples:
proxy.php

proxy.php

proxy.php

Threaded inserts are available from Fastenal, if they have a store in your area. Most hardware stores don't stock them as small as you need.
 
I borrowed this photo from The Golden Nib
proxy.php

This is how their razor kits work. The curvy chrome part with the ribbed stud would cement into a wooden or acrylic handle, I think.. It also holds the handle just a little bit further from the whiskers, lather, and rinse water.

If you MUST do it with a Tech, you could possibly use that portion of the kit if the threads match (I don't know if they will!). Or take the current Tech handle, and cut/machine it down into something that can aslo be cemented into the wooden handle.

Maybe you can also make the wooden bit big enough to slide over the Tech's metal handle entirely, if that's to your taste.
 
I borrowed this photo from The Golden Nib
proxy.php

This is how their razor kits work. The curvy chrome part with the ribbed stud would cement into a wooden or acrylic handle, I think.. It also holds the handle just a little bit further from the whiskers, lather, and rinse water.

If you MUST do it with a Tech, you could possibly use that portion of the kit if the threads match (I don't know if they will!). Or take the current Tech handle, and cut/machine it down into something that can aslo be cemented into the wooden handle.

Maybe you can also make the wooden bit big enough to slide over the Tech's metal handle entirely, if that's to your taste.

Yep. This works great. The head is a Parker. The threads are the same as most American razors, and will usually work on the metric part of the world, as well - Merkur, EJ, etc.. I wish we could buy just the threaded transition - I asked Tony some time back, but never heard back. I have thought about getting a lathe and making them, but not so far. Maybe Cooncat Bob would consider making them. He makes them for his customs - brass, and then nickle plate.
 
It helps to thread a screw, no head, into the section of Tech handle, and epoxy that into your wood handle. This method works well. Easier that buying a metal lathe, and turning your own metal transition piece.

That's why I suggested he use the spindle off a cracked ball end old type.
It's got a 1/4 shoulder which you can epoxy into a hole in the wood.
Not as nice as my custom made spindles but it works and there's lots of cracked ball end handles out there.
proxy.php
 
The main problem is the Tech head, which has to screw into the handle somehow. That's why you need a threaded collar inset into the wood which can then be sealed. Or one of the other suggestions. See if you've got a woodturning club/assoc etc in town or ask on line what they would do.

I think that TGN might sell those threaded collars.
 
I'm gonna take the head to my local hardware store and see what I can find.

I'll let you know in a week or so what the outcome is.. (I have exams at the moment!)

Thanks for all the input guys!

I'm gonna make the handle like a Sami knife, any idea on how to seal it at the end of the handle so all the pieces don't fall off? Obviously I'll glue it all together, but just as a precaution!


Cam
 
Last edited:
I'm gonna take the head to my local hardware store and see what I can find.

I'll let you know in a week or so what the outcome is.. (I have exams at the moment!)

Thanks for all the input guys!

I'm gonna make the handle like a Sami knife, any idea on how to seal it at the end of the handle so all the pieces don't fall off? Obviously I'll glue it all together, but just as a precaution!


Cam
Do you mean a Sami with layers of material? birch bark, wood, etc.? You could run a thread rod all the way from your transition piece to the end, add a washer and peen it like some Sami's are done.
 
Top Bottom