Gillette Tech vs EJ89

[atomheartmother]

I’ve been using an EJ89 for the past 10 years after using a Gillette Tech for a few years before that but not since. Alas, the threads stripped on the EJ, so it no longer stays together.

I decided to pull the Gillette back out. From what I can gather, it is a 46-50 ball end. It’s gold plated and has no date codes. It has a singular thin rectangular bar that runs across the base plate.

I gave it a spin today 3 day stubble using the typical parts and procedures: Proraso pre-shave, Feather blade, CO Bigelow shave cream, two lazy passes with touch up. It was a very different shaving experience. I don’t know if it was initially riding the cap, but it felt like I wasn’t even cutting anything. It wasn’t until I started applying some pressure and steeping the angle toward the guard that it felt like it was cutting (and I could hear it).

Does this razor require pressure? With the EJ I didn’t apply any pressure just letting the weight of the razor do it. I didn’t break out a scale, but the EJ definitely feels heavier. So, maybe that’s part of it.

The result was okay; a bit below par. Mainly, some remaining stubble on some trouble areas that are generally hard to get totally smooth (under chin, some spots on the neck, and right jaw line). I was also a bit paranoid about cutting myself, so maybe I wasn’t diligent enough in these spots.

Anyone have experiences going between these razors (or to a Gillette from a razor similar to the EJ)? More pressure or steeper angle needed?

I immediately ordered a Muhle R89, but I plan to take the Gillette for another spin before opening the new one. If I can save $50, I guess I’d prefer to do that. I’ll miss that shiny chrome on the bathroom counter, though.

 

[StewB]

If it was me, I would use what works. The R89 is a fine tool.

 

[Joezamboni]

Having used both I get better shaves from the tech.

I actually think I tried selling my Muhle version of that head but no bites.

If you like shiney chrome you could always buy A prewar tech (for the non-etched cap) and a postwar for the baseplate. It may shave a bit different but probably not too much.

 

[dmshaver]

I prefer the Tech riding the cap with a Feather. Once you get the angle, it’s a great razor that delivers superb shaves. Whatever you go with, enjoy your shaves!

 

[Filudo]

Or you can get a zamak copy of the EJ (for cheap) head and use your handle......

 

[lasta]

I much prefer the Tech, in fact it's my grail razor!

I found it similar, if not a bit more efficient than the DE89, but shallowerr shaving. Maybe you are trying to use it the same way as the EJ and thus not cutting smoothly?

Tech works between 21 and 28 degrees (blade angle), the EJ is steeper, 30+ if I remember correctly.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Spare parts for the Jagger are (or were, I haven't looked lately) sold at English Shaving. Until March of this year, a Jagger had been my primary razor for a few years. In that time, I found a vintage travel kit with a Tech in it. Like you, I was disappointed with it, and gave it away.

I'm now using a RazoRock Game Changer 68, which needs more precise handling than the Jagger did for the same closeness, but still shaves significantly better than the Tech did.

 

[lasta]

Spare parts for the Jagger are (or were, I haven't looked lately) sold at English Shaving. Until March of this year, a Jagger had been my primary razor for a few years. In that time, I found a vintage travel kit with a Tech in it. Like you, I was disappointed with it, and gave it away.

I'm now using a RazoRock Game Changer 68, which needs more precise handling than the Jagger did for the same closeness, but still shaves significantly better than the Tech did.

YMMV I suppose, I found the GC68 much milder than Techs.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

YMMV I suppose, I found the GC68 much milder than Techs.

I found the 68 was hitting and missing at first, so the sweet spot was at least findable. It was just going to take work to find it in all areas, in all directions. The Tech never realy quite hit, even when I scooped (rolled from steep to shallow mid stroke) on the more troublesome areas. It was always close, but no coconut.

The black plastic Wilkinson Sword Classic razor was what I learned with. That's a swine to get full clean up with, but at least it would do it. If I really wanted to, I could push for perfectly stubble free all over. It's a while ago now, but I believe I pulled out every trick I ever used with the Wilkie, and none of them would quite give the Tech that final push to full clean up, and if I remember correctly, the regrowth was less comfortable than is should have been too.

 

[lasta]

I found the 68 was hitting and missing at first, so the sweet spot was at least findable. It was just going to take work to find it in all areas, in all directions. The Tech never realy quite hit, even when I scooped (rolled from steep to shallow mid stroke) on the more troublesome areas. It was always close, but no coconut.

The black plastic Wilkinson Sword Classic razor was what I learned with. That's a swine to get full clean up with, but at least it would do it. If I really wanted to, I could push for perfectly stubble free all over. It's a while ago now, but I believe I pulled out every trick I ever used with the Wilkie, and none of them would quite give the Tech that final push to full clean up, and if I remember correctly, the regrowth was less comfortable than is should have been too.

Hmm that is a bit odd.

All my Techs have positive exposure, I think Shavingbythenumbers had a ball end measured at +0.08mm, much more than the GC68!

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I don't buy into all that sciencey stuff for a lot of shaving items to be honest, especially on older mass produced items. The manufacturing methods were simple, and I bet the first razor on a set of tooling, varied wildly to the last one accepted before tooling was replaced. Plus we can only guess what the tolerance was between that first tool, and the replacement tool.

We're talking about stamping and coining of sheet metal aren't we? Aircraft industry tolerancing is only a modern marketting aspect. There was a big thread about which manufacturer's double edged blades were thicker and thinner, with a big table of super precise variations measured ... then I referred them to an industry standard, which showed they all fell within the cold rolled sheet mill specifications for the coils that they were stamped from

 

[lasta]

I don't buy into all that sciencey stuff for a lot of shaving items to be honest, especially on older mass produced items. The manufacturing methods were simple, and I bet the first razor on a set of tooling, varied wildly to the last one accepted before tooling was replaced. Plus we can only guess what the tolerance was between that first tool, and the replacement tool.

We're talking about stamping and coining of sheet metal aren't we? Aircraft industry tolerancing is only a modern marketting aspect. There was a big thread about which manufacturer's double edged blades were thicker and thinner, with a big table of super precise variations measured ... then I referred them to an industry standard, which showed they all fell within the cold rolled sheet mill specifications for the coils that they were stamped from

I suppose you are partly right!

Most of us here are treating hair removal as a hobby, there is certainly a lot to talk about.

But for the passive readers around, it doesn't hurt to have some specs.

Of the 9 Techs I've tried, precision are all very good.

Also, all of them are more efficient than my GC68! Even after I polished (thinner top cap) my game change 3 times, it's still milder than Techs.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I suppose you are partly right!

Most of us here are treating hair removal as a hobby, there is certainly a lot to talk about.

But for the passive readers around, it doesn't hurt to have some specs.

Of the 9 Techs I've tried, precision are all very good.

Also, all of them are more efficient than my GC68! Even after I polished (thinner top cap) my game change 3 times, it's still milder than Techs.

I've only tried one Tech, and it wasn't with me long. The next guy seemed happy with it though. I don't even know which of the many flavours of Tech it was. I know it was English made, but that's about it.

I do get the hobby side of it, and it's great to thrash around different ideas and perspectives, and get a flavour of general trends. I just get a bit uncomfortable when things get a bit too sciencey, when they probably didn't ought to be. Perspectives and observations that are presented and construed as "facts" can be misleading, especially when it's a precision of measurement that would never applied in the manufactuing setting the item was produced in.

I'm from a manufacturing background, so you might say that's my own nerdiness creeping out, as I know that if you try to make simple stuff too precise, it can quickly become impractical or unsaleable/unaffordable.

 

[BigJ]

If it was me, I would use what works. The R89 is a fine tool.

+1!! Yes indeed! You already have a good answer!

 

[atomheartmother]

Thanks for all of the comments! I’ll give the Tech another try or two before going to the Mühle. If I can get it shaving with about the same results with about the same time m, energy, and effort, I’ll probably stick with the Tech.

I also appreciate the comments about the GameChanger. It’s one I was actually trying to get. Alas, it seems sold out everywhere.

 

[atomheartmother]

Update: two shaves in. With more a bit more pressure and finding the right angle, the shave was at least as good as with the EJ. I think I’ll be sticking with the Gillette. Kind of cool shaving with something around 75 years old, too.

 

[DesertIguana]

Two Razor that are popular, work well.

Some people love Vintages, other love modern EJ’s,

Nice thing about both razor they both are classic designs.

Both have happy users.

 

[Curkio]

I struggle with anything over 2 days stubble when using the Tech.

 

[Cal]

I gave it a spin today 3 day stubble using the typical parts and procedures: Proraso pre-shave, Feather blade, CO Bigelow shave cream, two lazy passes with touch up. It was a very different shaving experience. I don’t know if it was initially riding the cap, but it felt like I wasn’t even cutting anything. It wasn’t until I started applying some pressure and steeping the angle toward the guard that it felt like it was cutting (and I could hear it).

Does this razor require pressure? With the EJ I didn’t apply any pressure just letting the weight of the razor do it. I didn’t break out a scale, but the EJ definitely feels heavier. So, maybe that’s part of it.

I always follow King C. Gillette's instructions (see the 2nd WAY):

i.e. STEEP. (Guards are what defines a "safety" razor.)

I ride the guard at all times. Pressure on the guard can vary from virtually zero to firm... but the blade pressure remains at NIL (or as close to that as I can manage).

I have no problem getting BBS shaves with any of my Techs (I have coarse, prolific, and fast-growing whiskers).

Here's my favorite Tech, the Flat Bottom, on its custom GT handle made by my good friend Doug (@Rosseforp):

FOOTNOTE:
I'm never surprised at shallow angle shavers complaining of irritation and other stuff, like the removal of spots/scar tissue/moles/etc. Riding the cap pushes the skin up in front of the blade and exacerbates these problems.

 

[Slapo]

I always follow King C. Gillette's instructions (see the 2nd WAY):
View attachment 1765736
i.e. STEEP. (Guards are what defines a "safety" razor.)

I ride the guard at all times. Pressure on the guard can vary from virtually zero to firm... but the blade pressure remains at NIL (or as close to that as I can manage).

I have no problem getting BBS shaves with any of my Techs (I have coarse, prolific, and fast-growing whiskers).

Here's my favorite Tech, the Flat Bottom, on its custom GT handle made by my good friend Doug (@Rosseforp):
View attachment 1765747

View attachment 1765748

FOOTNOTE:
I'm never surprised at shallow angle shavers complaining of irritation and other stuff, like the removal of spots/scar tissue/moles/etc. Riding the cap pushes the skin up in front of the blade and exacerbates these problems.

That first photo you've shared is a piece of marketing material that is built into the case for the razor, so should, IMO, be taken with a grain of salt.
"Non-skid thread notched on guard bar prevents razor from side-slipping." - I've not encountered a razor where "side-slipping" would be an issue that wouldn't be caused by the user. Perhaps they were thinking of people with shakes/tremors or other condition, but I strongly doubt the notches would help there much.
The guard smoothing the skin seems questionable, too, as it seems like something that would require specific conditions or very precise pressure and angle control, which would I be quite difficult with the skin covered with shaving soap or another lubricant.

I've never had irritation when riding the cap, but I did have some when using a shallow blade angle. It's not a question of pressure - it just felt like the blade was plucking at my hair when using a shallow blade angle.
It is useful for avoiding moles and skin imperfection, though, as it's easier to see the blade for me that way.


I'm not questioning that it works for you, though (just your justification for doing so), and I think people should try being flexible with the angle and find out what suits them.