First time shavette

[BombayShaver]

I had a shavette shave at a local barber, & loved the quality of that shave.
I then used a local shavette with half supermax blade in it yesterday!
& Boy it was going awesome till cheeks, baby smooth cheeks...
But as soon as I went to my chin area I cut my moustache-area,chin & also neck!

Then I reverted back to my safety razor to complete the shave.
But I'm not giving up easily on shavette yet!
Maybe I'll try to bisect 2-3 shave old DE razor blades & then use them in my shavette? Slightly less sharp blade might help?
Any suggestions how to move through this learning phase, without shedding (much) blood!?

 

[Lightcs1776]

It will likely take several shaves to get comfortable with a shavette. Switching to a DE after the first pass is a smart move while you are learning. You will be rewarded as you gain confidence in your shavette shaving ability.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Twelvefret]

Roll the razor in your fingers around curves areas of the face. Move slow and no pressure. Keep the blade near flat at all times.

 

[aussie]

You will need a VERY light touch. Imagine you are tickling your face with a feather. I'll reiterate the advice given above about the flat angle. The most acute angle that cuts your stubble it best.

Stretch your skin more than with a DE and learn to roll the razor around your chin and other curves. You'll need a ton of patience as this is the least forgiving kind of razor.

Good luck and don't give up.

 

[steveclarkus]

The above post by @aussie is spot on - especially regarding pressure. Shavettes are a bit more difficult to learn on but consistently deliver spectacular shaves without requiring the maintenance of a traditional straight razor. I’ve been shaving with straights for over a year and I gave a shavette a go recently and it simply blew me away. As far as blades go, you can buy a 100 box of Derby half blades and they give great shaves without being overly sharp - very comfortable. It also helps to touch the corners of the blade on glass to mute them if you are getting nicked by the little devils. Feather blades already have rounded corners but the blades are very sharp. Those corners are generally the nicking problem. It seems like you are off to a good start so keep it up. When you are comfortable with a shavette and getting good shaves, shaving with a traditional straight razor will be zero problem. It just won’t be as sharp. Pressure with a close angle is the key. It takes less pressure than a DE and delivers a better shave and is well worth the trouble of learning. When it comes down to wonderful shaves, shavettes are excellent and convenient straight razors.

 

[BombayShaver]

It will likely take several shaves to get comfortable with a shavette. Switching to a DE after the first pass is a smart move while you are learning. You will be rewarded as you gain confidence in your shavette shaving ability.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Roll the razor in your fingers around curves areas of the face. Move slow and no pressure. Keep the blade near flat at all times.

You will need a VERY light touch. Imagine you are tickling your face with a feather. I'll reiterate the advice given above about the flat angle. The most acute angle that cuts your stubble it best.

Stretch your skin more than with a DE and learn to roll the razor around your chin and other curves. You'll need a ton of patience as this is the least forgiving kind of razor.

Good luck and don't give up.

The above post by @aussie is spot on - especially regarding pressure. Shavettes are a bit more difficult to learn on but consistently deliver spectacular shaves without requiring the maintenance of a traditional straight razor. I’ve been shaving with straights for over a year and I gave a shavette a go recently and it simply blew me away. As far as blades go, you can buy a 100 box of Derby half blades and they give great shaves without being overly sharp - very comfortable. It also helps to touch the corners of the blade on glass to mute them if you are getting nicked by the little devils. Feather blades already have rounded corners but the blades are very sharp. Those corners are generally the nicking problem. It seems like you are off to a good start so keep it up. When you are comfortable with a shavette and getting good shaves, shaving with a traditional straight razor will be zero problem. It just won’t be as sharp. Pressure with a close angle is the key. It takes less pressure than a DE and delivers a better shave and is well worth the trouble of learning. When it comes down to wonderful shaves, shavettes are excellent and convenient straight razors.

Woah! That is some great words from you guys! Thanks a ton!
I never thought your words could be poetic, poignant & practical in helping me learn.
I love this forum!

 

[BombayShaver]

The above post by @aussie is spot on - especially regarding pressure. Shavettes are a bit more difficult to learn on but consistently deliver spectacular shaves without requiring the maintenance of a traditional straight razor. I’ve been shaving with straights for over a year and I gave a shavette a go recently and it simply blew me away. As far as blades go, you can buy a 100 box of Derby half blades and they give great shaves without being overly sharp - very comfortable. It also helps to touch the corners of the blade on glass to mute them if you are getting nicked by the little devils. Feather blades already have rounded corners but the blades are very sharp. Those corners are generally the nicking problem. It seems like you are off to a good start so keep it up. When you are comfortable with a shavette and getting good shaves, shaving with a traditional straight razor will be zero problem. It just won’t be as sharp. Pressure with a close angle is the key. It takes less pressure than a DE and delivers a better shave and is well worth the trouble of learning. When it comes down to wonderful shaves, shavettes are excellent and convenient straight razors.

Yes, the quality it offers means it's worth learning!
Will definitely look for Derby & Feather here in India.
Meanwhile, Acquisition disorder already struck me!

 

[RumpleBearskin]

I've been straight shaving for a bit over a year. During that time I had two barber shaves with a shavette (one great, one not so great). I also did one shaver shave myself with a borrowed Parker SR-1.

This week I bought my own shavette, a Universal Lama Interna, and used it for the first time this morning. Great shave. Much fun.

Will I give up my straights? No way! But a shavette should be in every straight shaver's drawer just to mix things up a bit.

 

[ajduplessis]

Shavette is in the draw for travel only.

 

[RayClem]

When I first wanted to get into the world of straight razors, I purchased a cheap shavette from the local Sally Beauty Supply. I got some Derby Professional half blades to go along with it. l hated the shave I got with the razor, so I put it away and started using real straight razors.

Recently, I picked up a pack of PermaSharp half blades by accident, not realizing that they were half blades rather than the DE blades I was seeking. So rather than get rid of them, I decided to pull out the old shavette. I got a spectacular shave with these blades. I attribute that to two factors. Derby blades are not sharp enough for my tough beard, whereas PermaSharp blades are some of the sharpest blades you can purchase. After years of using straight razors my technique has improved to the point I was able to shave with the extremely sharp blades in a shavette without nicks or weepers. I still do not like the weight and balance of the cheap shavette, but with the right blade, I could use it for a nice shave.

I have used Feather Artist Club blades in a single edge razor and like them, so I am tempted to add an Artist Club shavette to my collection of razors.

 

[Twelvefret]

I've been straight shaving for a bit over a year. During that time I had two barber shaves with a shavette (one great, one not so great). I also did one shaver shave myself with a borrowed Parker SR-1.

This week I bought my own shavette, a Universal Lama Interna, and used it for the first time this morning. Great shave. Much fun.

Will I give up my straights? No way! But a shavette should be in every straight shaver's drawer just to mix things up a bit.

My barber's use of a shavette is what first got me curious about using a straight razor. She said she would never use one on herself. That thought crosses my mind the first time I used the Feather SS.[/QUOTE]

 

[Twelvefret]

When I first wanted to get into the world of straight razors, I purchased a cheap shavette from the local Sally Beauty Supply. I got some Derby Professional half blades to go along with it. l hated the shave I got with the razor, so I put it away and started using real straight razors.

Recently, I picked up a pack of PermaSharp half blades by accident, not realizing that they were half blades rather than the DE blades I was seeking. So rather than get rid of them, I decided to pull out the old shavette. I got a spectacular shave with these blades. I attribute that to two factors. Derby blades are not sharp enough for my tough beard, whereas PermaSharp blades are some of the sharpest blades you can purchase. After years of using straight razors my technique has improved to the point I was able to shave with the extremely sharp blades in a shavette without nicks or weepers. I still do not like the weight and balance of the cheap shavette, but with the right blade, I could use it for a nice shave.

I have used Feather Artist Club blades in a single edge razor and like them, so I am tempted to add an Artist Club shavette to my collection of razors.

I am finding that what is sharp for one user is not sharp for another. This is why I went to diamond paste after 12k.

 

[RayClem]

I am finding that what is sharp for one user is not sharp for another. This is why I went to diamond paste after 12k.

I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, so I want my blades to be very sharp and very smooth. That is not always easy to accomplish. I have a Naniwa 12K, but like to finish at even higher grit levels. With synthetics that means Shapton 16K and Suehiro G20K. I also have some naturals that give a great edge (I estimate somewhere around the 15K level): Greek vermio, Imperia la Roccia (mine is a good one), South African Zulu Grey, and Welch slate Llyn Melynllyn (Yellow Lake).

I can shave off those hones, but I prefer to follow up with pasted strops (0.5 micron, 0.25 micron, and 0.1 micron. I use CBN rather than diamond, but both work. When I first added 0.1 micron spray to my arsenal, I did not really expect a significant improvement over the 0.25 micron, but my face could tell the difference.

 

[steveclarkus]

I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, so I want my blades to be very sharp and very smooth. That is not always easy to accomplish. I have a Naniwa 12K, but like to finish at even higher grit levels. With synthetics that means Shapton 16K and Suehiro G20K. I also have some naturals that give a great edge (I estimate somewhere around the 15K level): Greek vermio, Imperia la Roccia (mine is a good one), South African Zulu Grey, and Welch slate Llyn Melynllyn (Yellow Lake).

I can shave off those hones, but I prefer to follow up with pasted strops (0.5 micron, 0.25 micron, and 0.1 micron. I use CBN rather than diamond, but both work. When I first added 0.1 micron spray to my arsenal, I did not really expect a significant improvement over the 0.25 micron, but my face could tell the difference.

+1

 

[Twelvefret]

I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, so I want my blades to be very sharp and very smooth. That is not always easy to accomplish. I have a Naniwa 12K, but like to finish at even higher grit levels. With synthetics that means Shapton 16K and Suehiro G20K. I also have some naturals that give a great edge (I estimate somewhere around the 15K level): Greek vermio, Imperia la Roccia (mine is a good one), South African Zulu Grey, and Welch slate Llyn Melynllyn (Yellow Lake).

I can shave off those hones, but I prefer to follow up with pasted strops (0.5 micron, 0.25 micron, and 0.1 micron. I use CBN rather than diamond, but both work. When I first added 0.1 micron spray to my arsenal, I did not really expect a significant improvement over the 0.25 micron, but my face could tell the difference.

I think I would enjoy evaluating a Suehiro 20k. While I know they are expensive, over $300, I am surprised more honers who use stones don't suggest them more.

 

[RayClem]

I think I would enjoy evaluating a Suehiro 20k. While I know they are expensive, over $300, I am surprised more honers who use stones don't suggest them more.

For most shavers, the Suehiro G20K is an unnecessary expense. You can get close to the same level using a 12K or lapping film followed by pasted strops. Unless you beard is very tough and your skin is very sensitive, you do not need the type of edge the Suehiro can provide.

I like the Suehiro because it does not seem to be susceptible to over-honing. With some high grit hones, if you do too many laps on the stone, the edge becomes harsh. That is less likely on the Suehiro. There is a two-part video on YouTube where Ron (who goes by the name Utopian on some forums) uses a Suehiro to go all the way from bevel set to final finishing using the G20K. As you might expect, trying to set a bevel on a 20K hone is a slow process (thus the two part video), but he ended with a nice edge. He is not recommending the G20K as a bevel setter, but is trying to prove that the Suehiro has enough cutting power to be used for that purpose.

 

[Rotiv]

I had a shavette shave at a local barber, & loved the quality of that shave.
I then used a local shavette with half supermax blade in it yesterday!
& Boy it was going awesome till cheeks, baby smooth cheeks...
But as soon as I went to my chin area I cut my moustache-area,chin & also neck!

Then I reverted back to my safety razor to complete the shave.
But I'm not giving up easily on shavette yet!
Maybe I'll try to bisect 2-3 shave old DE razor blades & then use them in my shavette? Slightly less sharp blade might help?
Any suggestions how to move through this learning phase, without shedding (much) blood!?

Toss it to the litter

From my experience shavett with half DE blades are the worst shaving razor there is. The problem is always with the blades. DE blades are too thin and flexible to provide no bloody shave unless they are well tight in a good SR razor, and even so. My advise is change to a straight razor and You’ll probably have the most enjoyable shaves ever. Much more forgiving. But if you insiste in a shavett replacing blades, then you can go for a A S S Feather foldable shavette, with proguard blades. Knowing that you still have to be very careful not to draw blood.


Enviado do meu iPhone usando o Tapatalk

 

[steveclarkus]

I don’t think you should throw it away as shavettes have a place in the straight shaving world - travel for one and I don’t find blade flex a problem at all as there is very little blade extending from the rigid holder. However, I do agree that a traditional straight is much more forgiving and easier to learn with. I tried the shavette route and failed miserably and learned to shave with properly honed Gold Dollars. I am glad I kept my shavette because now that I know how to shave I get exceptional close and comfortable shaves with it and don’t have to tote a bunch of gear if I’m away from home for a week. I have a wirey beard but not dense so Derby blades work fine for me. One thing about using a straight razor is that you have to maintain the edge. I suggest you get film to learn to hone using The Method. You can be producing very good edges in a week or two with minimal investment. You can pick up a decent straight off eBay for little more than the cost of a good shavette and find someone on this board to hone it for you. Just don’t toss your shavette yet. If you are serious about straight razors, there will have to be some dedicated effort to get over the hump and not get discouraged. If you decide to continue with the shavette, just keep your pressure VERY LIGHT and angle tight and be sure to mute the exposed blade corners as they are the greatest cause of nicks and cuts. Some do learn this way and have less difficulty transitioning to traditional razors. By the way, whatever razor you choose, don’t chase BBS until you are completely comfortable shaving with it.

 

[RayClem]

When I first purchased a cheap shavette, I was using Derby Professional blades. They did not give me a great shave. I switched to real straights and never looked back. Recently, I picked up a pack of PermaSharp half blades. They range pretty close to Feather on the sharpness scale. I can get a fantastic shave with these blades in my cheap shavette, as good as I get with a straight razor. Thus, I am tempted to purchase a better quality shavette to use these blades.

I also have an ATT SE1 single edge razor that uses Artist Club blades. I get good shaves with that razor, so I may get one of the Artist Club razors one day.

 

[steveclarkus]

When I first purchased a cheap shavette, I was using Derby Professional blades. They did not give me a great shave. I switched to real straights and never looked back. Recently, I picked up a pack of PermaSharp half blades. They range pretty close to Feather on the sharpness scale. I can get a fantastic shave with these blades in my cheap shavette, as good as I get with a straight razor. Thus, I am tempted to purchase a better quality shavette to use these blades.

I also have an ATT SE1 single edge razor that uses Artist Club blades. I get good shaves with that razor, so I may get one of the Artist Club razors one day.

Check out the Focus Al. I’m pretty impressed with it. It has guards for the blade corners.