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extra pressura in the razor when honing could damage?

B

BJJ

What s up guys...


always when i set the bevel there is always dull spots left that it takes lot of time to open the bevel...

the way i am doing is i am using my finger to put extra pressure between the spine and the bevel to open that spot....

after that i use very light pressure for X strokes... and it always works...


but i keep wondering if that could wrap or damage the razor??

what do you guys have to say about that...??


best regards

Michel.
 
Some razors just aren't straight; even new ones. Any little fraction of a degree bend or bow in the spine can cause uneven honewear. To go along with that, if there is previous uneven wear to the spine of the blade, you are going to come across issues.

You are definitely moving in the right direction! Simply putting your finger on the spine at the offending spot can create enough pressure to get the bevel to contact the stone. You don't want to be putting all your weight on the blade, but firm pressure is totally ok.
 
Unless you're really bearing down on the razor, you're unlikely to damage it; I've learned that pressure equal to about what you'd use for a pencil eraser is sufficient for most razors. I like to use the marker test (take a sharpie type marker and ink across the bevel) to see where I'm making contact. From there, if I'm not making contact somewhere, I apply finger pressure to the offending area, increase/decrease pressure if need and run the test until it passes.
 
If you are flexing a hollow or extra hollow, you are using too much pressure. Then when you go to the next hone, you arent even touching the edge because the blade was flexed. I used to and still at times dull slghtly on the edge of a glass up to the 4k or equivalent to make sure the entire edge gets touched by the hone Im working on. I use heel leading half strokes on most everything now. That stroke IMO can get around many blade anomalies. Then rolling x strokes.
 
If you are flexing a hollow or extra hollow, you are using too much pressure. Then when you go to the next hone, you arent even touching the edge because the blade was flexed. I used to and still at times dull slghtly on the edge of a glass up to the 4k or equivalent to make sure the entire edge gets touched by the hone Im working on. I use heel leading half strokes on most everything now. That stroke IMO can get around many blade anomalies. Then rolling x strokes.

Instead of dulling on glass you can just use the magic marker test and save a micron of steel or two.
 
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