How do you get rid of nylon hair?! I'm trying to drill into this sucker with no luck!
Erskine Duke Nylon Help!
- Thread starter bmilcs
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Bryan, I've had some success in removing Nylon knots. Here's my approach: First, I trim the bristles as close to the top of the collar/socket as I safely can. Next, using a small bit (e.g., 3/16") at a relatively slow RPM I drill through the bristles into the plug a few times. Note: If you spin the bit too fast, it'll generate a lot of heat and you'll end up with a melted mess. So, I drill briefly, and then pull out as many bristles as I can using small pliers. I repeat this process until I've thinned the bristles sufficiently to switch to a Forstner bit a little smaller than the socket. Again, I keep the RPMs low and resist the temptation to get it all out in one shot. The Forstner bit does a great job. Finally, I clean up the socket with a small drum sander. I should point out that I use a drill press that makes this all much easier (not to mention safer). I don't think I'd try any of this with a hand drill, and certainly not using a Forstner bit. I hope this is helpful. Good luck!
I HATE Nylon bristles...at least I hate trying to remove them. I've ruined at least a couple of drill bits when I've gone too fast and turned the bristles into a molten mess of nylon. As Jim said, take it very, very slow. Try to pull out as much as you can without resorting to motorized tools. Good luck!
A couple of hand tools that I used on two old nylon bristles. I seldom use power tools on restorations. The tool on the top has three cutting surfaces and is easy to sharpen. It's the tool I used the most in cutting thru the nylon.
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- #5
Thanks for the tips!
I finally got to the shelf and am concerned with drilling to far and hitting the lucite core. Even with a drill and dremel, I'm having a hell of a time expanding beyond the initial hole I drilled out.
Any tips for not drilling too far and making a level surface with the original shelf?
Edit: autocorrect sucks sometimes.
I finally got to the shelf and am concerned with drilling to far and hitting the lucite core. Even with a drill and dremel, I'm having a hell of a time expanding beyond the initial hole I drilled out.
Any tips for not drilling too far and making a level surface with the original shelf?
Edit: autocorrect sucks sometimes.
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- #6
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Those would be handy, I think. Thanks!
If you can find a rasp similar to the one pictured in Ray Guy's post, that might be a big help in removing the bristles around the outer edge of the socket. Once that's done, you shouldn't have much difficulty enlarging the hole.
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- #8
Thanks guys.
Another question: can I use the steam method to remove and reset my TGN Finest knot in another handle? I do not like the weight or balance of it and I don't want the knot to go to waste!
Another question: can I use the steam method to remove and reset my TGN Finest knot in another handle? I do not like the weight or balance of it and I don't want the knot to go to waste!
Well, if were glued in yes as short cycle steaming (if the hairs were covered with aluminum foil) would work but, epoxy will hold under high temperatures which would yield nothing but a steamed knot. If you don't care for the handle you can cut the handle away from the knot.
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- #10
Well I melted nylon all over my new dremel brand grinding bit and on top of it; the bit is completely stuck in the dremel. The collets or whatever won't budge past around 1:4th of the way out. I can push the bit back down but it gets stuck at 1/4th the way out.
Needless to say I'm going to buy a dremel brand dremel soon. I want to return this crappy Harbor Freight *** but I want to get my bit out.
Help!!!
Needless to say I'm going to buy a dremel brand dremel soon. I want to return this crappy Harbor Freight *** but I want to get my bit out.
Help!!!
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- #12
What way should I tap the bit with the hammer? On the side? Outwards? Inwards?
Inwards.
Another thing to do if that doesn't work, would be to completely unscrew the collet and using a small punch, tap the bit out from the back side. That's how I did it before I was able to free things up from tapping inwards.
Once the bit is out, the collet may still be stuck and not want to expand to insert another tool such as a sanding drum. A gentle tap on the jaws will free them us so you can insert another tool.
Another thing to do if that doesn't work, would be to completely unscrew the collet and using a small punch, tap the bit out from the back side. That's how I did it before I was able to free things up from tapping inwards.
Once the bit is out, the collet may still be stuck and not want to expand to insert another tool such as a sanding drum. A gentle tap on the jaws will free them us so you can insert another tool.
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- #14
Well, I'm going to try and return it with the bit in place. Hopefully it's honored because its under the 90 day return policy.
Looks like a dremel 3000 is in my future
Looks like a dremel 3000 is in my future
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- #15
Ok big updates. Got my Dremel 3000! Fantastic tool and I got my bit out: I guess it didn't have anymore fight in it and just gave up this morning. So I have my bit back and a beautiful new power tool.
So I went at this lucite brush with a grinding bit. I was going nowhere fast. Swapped to a sanding bit and voila! Hair gone.
However it was impossible to avoid taking the inner black paint off with it. I also noticed that the hair itself wasn't melting into my bit but the adhesive below it. That's my next challenge. Since there's a now a ring of black gone, I'm going to simply hollow it all out and hopefully widen the mouth enough for a 24+ knot.
Has anyone else experienced this white adhesive that turns into a brown muck once heated? Also, any tips for painting the inside of the knot again? I think I may paint it a hot red or orange.
Thanks!
So I went at this lucite brush with a grinding bit. I was going nowhere fast. Swapped to a sanding bit and voila! Hair gone.
However it was impossible to avoid taking the inner black paint off with it. I also noticed that the hair itself wasn't melting into my bit but the adhesive below it. That's my next challenge. Since there's a now a ring of black gone, I'm going to simply hollow it all out and hopefully widen the mouth enough for a 24+ knot.
Has anyone else experienced this white adhesive that turns into a brown muck once heated? Also, any tips for painting the inside of the knot again? I think I may paint it a hot red or orange.
Thanks!
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- #16
Also picked up this killer curio that my girlfriend and I are sanding, scraping and painting. I'm thinking black!
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- #17
I done goofed.
now I have my work cut out for me. I took off a chunk of the lip of the brush. Now I need some tips on how I can level the surface of it. It won't be pretty. I think my best bet now would be an omega knot with the black cover to hide my mistakes
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- #18
It's not pretty but i refuse to give up!
Far from gone. It'll take some time, but wetsanding by hand will get it as clear as an ice cube again. Then paint the inner recess with Testors paint and use the same paint in the epoxy to fill the recess completely. You have an opportunity to put something original at the base of the recess, too. Still kicking myself for not doing it on my last restoration!
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- #20
Wetsanding? How does that work!
The inside is very uneven at the moment so I'm going to go back to the dremel when I have the mental focus of a Jedi to complete it properly.
I have to admit it; I'm a boar guy. I like my TGN finest but I def prefer stiffer boar hair.
I think it's time to order 2x 24mm omega knots for my current projects! I love my B&B essentials so I hope to make a larger version. Curse TGN for not offering an unbranded 24mm knot.
The inside is very uneven at the moment so I'm going to go back to the dremel when I have the mental focus of a Jedi to complete it properly.
I have to admit it; I'm a boar guy. I like my TGN finest but I def prefer stiffer boar hair
.I think it's time to order 2x 24mm omega knots for my current projects! I love my B&B essentials so I hope to make a larger version. Curse TGN for not offering an unbranded 24mm knot.
