Epoxy+broken scales

[pmaster]

Well, I bought this razor more or less for my girlfriend who thought it was pretty I also kinda agree, although I paid too much for what it is (didn't expect to win it).

Anyway, I bought it mostly for the scales, and there I go and break them when removing them! Real nice... Luckily its on the side that doesn't matter too much, and I was able to use some epoxy to glue them back together. I put plenty of it, even in the hole of the pin, then put some clear tape around it and let it dry overnight.

Anyway its a so-so job, but I'm still glad and the blade itself kinda turned nicely.

I'm open to suggestions if anyone knows how to get into all the little cracks to better buff the textures and remove the yellowish tint...

View attachment 324430

 

[badrunner13]

Those scales are very pretty, your girlfriend has good taste (in razors anyway) Those Oxfords are great blades. Here is some history ( http://www.strazors.com/index.php?id=321&doc=adolph_kastor_castor_1856_1946_ ). The Germania cutlery used Swedish Steel in their blades! Nice score.
Personally I would keep the patina on the scales but some Meguiars plastx polish and a toothbrush may be what you are looking for.

 

[pmaster]

Those scales are very pretty, your girlfriend has good taste (in razors anyway) Those Oxfords are great blades. Here is some history ( http://www.strazors.com/index.php?id=321&doc=adolph_kastor_castor_1856_1946_ ). The Germania cutlery used Swedish Steel in their blades! Nice score.
Personally I would keep the patina on the scales but some Meguiars plastx polish and a toothbrush may be what you are looking for.

Thanks a lot for the info!! I was wondering about it! To be honest, I bought the razor for the scales mostly, but once the blade was cleaned up it looked actually quite nice! Its almost full hollow and in very good shape, I imagine sound quite nice as well while shaving.

I tried some mag polish (I usually use it to buff the scales as well) on a toothbrush but it didn't remove everything. Maybe you're right though, it shows helps show its age.

 

[pmaster]

It didn't hold!!!!

I honed it, and the washer on the outside of the broken scales started slipping and going inside the hole (I possibly should've used a bigger washer, maybe it wouldn't have put as much pressure) and finally the small part came off again...

I guess it was too good to be true.

I have some ivory colored acrylic on the way. If its close enough to this one, I will replace the back scale using it. Otherwise I may have to look into other options to glue it back somehow... Its definitely at the worst spot!

 

[badrunner13]

What kind of epoxy was used? Did you clamp it down? Wrap it with wax paper (epoxy won't stick) before clamping it, don't worry about having excess epoxy it can be sanded smooth and drilled. Make sure to give the epoxy adequate curing time before working it. I also see on your scales that they are one piece making this more difficult but if you use a spacer to fill the gap before clamping things should work out in your favor. They can definitely be saved just be patient with them.
Good luck,
Benjamin

 

[pmaster]

I used some 5-min epoxy, which has two tubes of ingredients that mix together. What I did was put it tightly in place and held it there with scotch tape, then let it set overnight... I didn't clamp anything but it seemed to be just in the right place, with glue in there, and was set pretty nicely this morning.

I will probably try again and hope for the best, or otherwise, cut the one side of the scales I want to keep and use the ivory acrylic for the other side, if color isn't too off.

I really was sure it would hold... :-/

 

[badrunner13]

I suspect the epoxy is the culprit here, typically you can get a good hold from epoxy in general but if the chemical structure doesn't actually form a bond with the material you are gluing you will not get a complete bond. I would check your product specifications to make sure it will bond to your scales. Plastic is one of the hardest materials to bond and actually require their own class of chemicals. Celluloid is an early plastic and I am purely guessing that your scales are made from this but I would try an epoxy chemically designed for this kind of application especially since it is in an area of stress.

Epoxy bonds well with natural materials and not as well with plastic it is kind of like an Oil and Water thing.

Something like this would work for you I think http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Plastic-Bonder.htm Check the Technical data sheet for details.
Benjamin

 

[Gamma]

There's a lot of tension at that area - I can't see making the repair work without reinforcing that section.
I've not tried this but - you could possibly put a liner inside each side of the scales - smaller than the scales so it doesn't show, but bigger than the pivot hole area.
very thin metal or clear acrylic or something like that.
Then you could glue the broken scale pieces to the liner, and to each other at the same time. CA glue should work.

Would make them fatter at the pivot, but they'd be original. You'd only have to do it up at the pivot end. I suppose you might get away with only having to do it on one side too if you're lucky.

Like I said - I never tried that but it seems like it might work.

 

[pmaster]

Hmm I didn't know about epoxy & plastic, I thought it was the other way around (epoxy naturally for plastic). I will have a look at the store for something specifically designed for it then.

Gamma: Interesting option, I hadn't thought about that. However there's not much room to work with, as you can see the scales are carved of one piece of celluloid (i suspect), but still...I might try it out. I've also read about people digging a small liner to put in a reinforcement to weld the two pieces together but in my case I fear there's not enough room for it.

I will start with a different brand of epoxy, if it doesn't work i'll see about the other options, thanks a lot for the suggestions.

 

[global_dev]

I think adding a thin brass liner would look good.

 

[Gamma]

Yep.

 

[Bear_Blade]

Another option, vulcanized fiber liner, epoxy bonds wonderfully with it.

 

[mycarver]

I just did a repair on a break like this at the pivot hole. I didn't want the look or thickness with a liner so I ground out a small section of the inner scale across the break and added an inlay then sanded it flush. The scales look the same, aren't any thicker and it held nicely.
Did you redrill the hole before putting this one back together? If not then there might have been some glue in the hole which added more force to the joint. Also a simple butt joint like this isn't very strong on it's own since there isn't much material being joined and there is considerable stress when the blade swings through it's arc on the very tip of the scale.

 

[Bear_Blade]

Good call, the brace is a better idea.

 

[pmaster]

I just did a repair on a break like this at the pivot hole. I didn't want the look or thickness with a liner so I ground out a small section of the inner scale across the break and added an inlay then sanded it flush. The scales look the same, aren't any thicker and it held nicely.
Did you redrill the hole before putting this one back together? If not then there might have been some glue in the hole which added more force to the joint. Also a simple butt joint like this isn't very strong on it's own since there isn't much material being joined and there is considerable stress when the blade swings through it's arc on the very tip of the scale.

What I did is I glued if together, filling the hole and everything else, and then stuck some tape around it to keep everything nice and tight for the night. Then in the morning I re-drilled the hole and then pinned it.

I am not sure I will be able to put a brace since there is very little room to play with (keep in mind this is a 1-piece scale), and the broken piece itself is very small. I will give it a go if I find the free time this week and update on the results (hopefully positive!).

 

[mycarver]

Sounds like you went in the right direction. You shouldn't need much room to get in there provided you have a Dremel type of tool with a small burr bit. By carefully spreading the scales you should be able to give yourself enough room to do this.

 

[pmaster]

I haven't touched the razor again since last time, I'll probably work on it this weekend, however I was wondering about grinding down the inside of the scales and adding a brace. If there is such a problem finding good glue to stick both ends together, what kind of glue should I use to glue celluloid with, let's say, a small acrylic brace? Or if if I decide to go with brass...? Any particular glue or is it a shot in the dark (I try everything and see what "sticks"?)?

 

[mycarver]

I have tried at least 8-10 epoxies and for the past 20+ yrs I have settled on Devcon 5 min. epoxy. I know many others that do the same. This stuff has gotten me through so many difficult situations and has never failed me regardless what I was fixing. I make my living doing all sorts of repairs and I can't live without it. Just yesterday I ordered the 9 oz. bottles as I go through it like there is no tomorrow.
Just my .02.

 

[pmaster]

I have tried at least 8-10 epoxies and for the past 20+ yrs I have settled on Devcon 5 min. epoxy. I know many others that do the same. This stuff has gotten me through so many difficult situations and has never failed me regardless what I was fixing. I make my living doing all sorts of repairs and I can't live without it. Just yesterday I ordered the 9 oz. bottles as I go through it like there is no tomorrow.
Just my .02.

Thanks mycarver, I'll look for it this weekend. Believe it or not I have another razor on the way which also has cracked scales, so I better get good at this, luckily that other one doesn't have the crack at the pivot point so it should be an easier fix.

 

[Legion]

I have a Blue Wonder with a break at the pivot. I tried that extra-super-duper strong epoxy and it didn't hold. One day it will get some new scales. Blue ones!