CzechCzar
Use the Fat, Luke!
I wanted to share a methodology I have developed for obtaining outstanding shaves with cheap-to-mid priced creams. For context, I recently switched to using creams as my mainstay, after more than a decade of using only the best artisan soaps. I wanted to simplify and stop spending so much.
After switching, I researched proper methodology for generating a lather in a bowl, and found a lot of useful stuff. I also found a lot of people who thought that generally, soaps provide better slickness, protection, and skin nutrients, than do creams. And I couldn’t find a post specifically dedicated to the methodology below.
After about half a year of trying various creams and tweaking my methodology, I have found that optimal cream lathering methodology differs significantly from soap methodology. If you follow the steps below, relatively cheap creams such as Speick Active are able to provide a shave that is every bit as slick and protective as even the best soaps.
A necessary thanks is owed to Marco, whose Marco Methodology provided the starting point. The Marco Methodology is, in short form: use a ton of soap and a ton of water. Your lather should be shiny by the time you are done with it. The water ensures slickness, and the product ensures protection.
With creams, especially with creams that come in a small tube such as Speick, I just cannot use a ton of product. The tube has a very small opening, and there is just not that much cream in the tube. Although many users say they use an almond-sized dollop of cream, I don’t want to use that much from my tube of Speick, because the tube wouldn’t last that long. I have found that with the DSP Methodology, a dollop between half an inch to an inch works fine (the opening on Speick tubes is quite small, so the amount is far less than an almond in size.)
You should try to use more water than you may think you need. But, you should add it gradually, about 10 drops at a time. You should start with a well-squeezed brush. The three broad stages of lather generation are:
At this point, the cream will be slick as anything, and despite the saturation bubbles, will still provide way more protection than you really need.
What has happened here? What is going on?
Any worthwhile cream will provide ample protection (cushion). And you have loaded the cream with as much water as it needs for optimal lubrication, which provides awesome slickness. I use extremely efficient razors, and with this method I get a BBS shave, with no nicks, irritation, or skin sadness. Unlike when I used artisan soaps, I can shave every day for week after week, without having to take a break. Overall this method gives me much better slickness and residual slickness than soaps ever did.
Anyway, hope this helps...
After switching, I researched proper methodology for generating a lather in a bowl, and found a lot of useful stuff. I also found a lot of people who thought that generally, soaps provide better slickness, protection, and skin nutrients, than do creams. And I couldn’t find a post specifically dedicated to the methodology below.
After about half a year of trying various creams and tweaking my methodology, I have found that optimal cream lathering methodology differs significantly from soap methodology. If you follow the steps below, relatively cheap creams such as Speick Active are able to provide a shave that is every bit as slick and protective as even the best soaps.
A necessary thanks is owed to Marco, whose Marco Methodology provided the starting point. The Marco Methodology is, in short form: use a ton of soap and a ton of water. Your lather should be shiny by the time you are done with it. The water ensures slickness, and the product ensures protection.
With creams, especially with creams that come in a small tube such as Speick, I just cannot use a ton of product. The tube has a very small opening, and there is just not that much cream in the tube. Although many users say they use an almond-sized dollop of cream, I don’t want to use that much from my tube of Speick, because the tube wouldn’t last that long. I have found that with the DSP Methodology, a dollop between half an inch to an inch works fine (the opening on Speick tubes is quite small, so the amount is far less than an almond in size.)
You should try to use more water than you may think you need. But, you should add it gradually, about 10 drops at a time. You should start with a well-squeezed brush. The three broad stages of lather generation are:
- Lather contains many bubbles, and the lathering has just started with a relatively dry brush. There is not yet enough water! I run my hand under the faucet and add some water - I want to say between 10 to 15 drops.
- “Stiff Peaks” - this is where most people stop. The lather has fully integrated the water, may be shiny, and contains “peaks”. This is where all the glamour shots that people post are at in terms of stage. At this stage, the lather is just beautiful. But don’t stop here! Add a good amount - 10 drops give or take - of additional water. Depending upon how much cream you used, it may take even more. The crucial point is don’t worry about adding too much water! I have found creams actually have a wide range of acceptable water amounts, once you have added a minimum amount of water.
- “Droopy Shiny Peaks” - lots of additional water has now been integrated. Peaks from the previous step still form, but they are now droopy with the extra water. The peaks should look a bit like a shiny upside-down umbrella. There are likely a few bubbles that are starting to form, leading you to wonder if you have added too much water. You haven’t! The lather should be very shiny at this point. You can stop here.
At this point, the cream will be slick as anything, and despite the saturation bubbles, will still provide way more protection than you really need.
What has happened here? What is going on?
Any worthwhile cream will provide ample protection (cushion). And you have loaded the cream with as much water as it needs for optimal lubrication, which provides awesome slickness. I use extremely efficient razors, and with this method I get a BBS shave, with no nicks, irritation, or skin sadness. Unlike when I used artisan soaps, I can shave every day for week after week, without having to take a break. Overall this method gives me much better slickness and residual slickness than soaps ever did.
Anyway, hope this helps...