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Custom painting a guitar

Does anyone know if it requires a spe......t to do this or can it be done by anyone that does custom paint work?
 
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Why wouldn't they?
 
Thanks for the replies gent's I have a freind who does Professional artwork gonna see if he can customize my warlock for me.
 
Thanks for the replies gent's I have a freind who does Professional artwork gonna see if he can customize my warlock for me.

If you paint it, assume that you will be its owner for life. There's almost no market for personally painted guitars, particularly of non-Gibson/Fender/PRS brands. Purchasers simply don't want to take the time to strip them; not when they can find unpainted versions readily available.

Jeff in Boston
 
I've painted 2 guitars, and I've learned to follow the following steps:

Properly prepare the body for painting (stripping and sanding it)
Allow the paint to dry
Use a ton of clearcoat applied in many thin, even layers
Allow at least a couple weeks if not a month for the clearcoat to harden
Sand thoroughly with 1k through 3k grit sandpaper (try an auto shop)
Polish
Solder and screw everything back together
 
I've painted 2 guitars, and I've learned to follow the following steps:

+1
a few notes if a may:
Properly prepare the body for painting (stripping and sanding it)
This is absolutely the most important step EVER, block sand at 45* angles (just like prepping a car for paint), i would also advise to not completely sand off the original finish, as raw wood is VERY thirsty and will suck up paint like a sponge. If painting a lighter color over a darker original finish, use a quality automotive primer. A few extra bucks and hours here will make the most difference in the final finish.

Allow the paint to dry
Enamels take a good amount of time to "gas out". apply the next coat too soon (past the recoat window, of course), and you'll get bubbles.

Use a ton of clearcoat applied in many thin, even layers
14-20 coats = 1 ton :wink2:
I prefer Nitrocellulose lacquer (available as Deft @ Lowes). This is the traditional electric guitar finish, and has the best flow characteristics for small work like instruments IMO. (In reality, it was adopted by Leo Fender because it was cheap, widely available, and gave a long-lasting quality finish). Acrylic and Polyurethane clearcoats work, but IMO Lacquer gives the most aesthetic results.

Allow at least a couple weeks if not a month for the clearcoat to harden
The other most important step to a professional finish, especially with Lacquer finishes, as they are very finicky (even after curing)


Sand thoroughly with 1k through 3k grit sandpaper (try an auto shop)
You have 2 different options here, progressions as follows:
(WET SAND WITH ALL PAPERS)
#800 paper, #1000, #1200, #1500, #2000, #2500, #3000, Swirl-remover, Dry Buff

#800 paper, #1000, #1200, #1500, Rubbing compound, Swirl remover, Dry Buff

Polish

Only if necessary after previous step, use an automotive wax on a damp lint-free cloth.
 

luvmysuper

My elbows leak
Staff member
If you paint it, assume that you will be its owner for life. There's almost no market for personally painted guitars, particularly of non-Gibson/Fender/PRS brands. Purchasers simply don't want to take the time to strip them; not when they can find unpainted versions readily available.

Jeff in Boston

+2

For Gods Sake, think before you paint...
.
.
 
I'm not going to be the one doing the painting it will by a professional painter I trust and have known for many years. I was thinking of just simple "biohazard" green flames on the black body.
 
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