Very informative thread! Thanks! Would be great to see and read a bit on "washboard" honing techniques for an asymmetrical japanese blade
Very informative thread! Thanks! Would be great to see and read a bit on "washboard" honing techniques for an asymmetrical japanese blade
Thats an advanced honing technique and beyond my current willingness to compile all the info & write it down.
OK, so I have a question regarding honing. I've seen a few things that mentioned that overhoning can lead to an edge that breaks up when stropped, and seen a few statements that reference "resetting the bevel", but I haven't found any information on how to do just that. Do I drag the edge off on a hone, then start over?
Just curious, as I just tried for the first time to get a well honed edge on minimal tools, and as soon as I stopped the blade, the edge just fell apart.
Any tips?
thanks for the info, but I cant seem to move from the bevel setting stage. I can produce a arm hair cutting bevel (using Norton 1K/8K), but when I move to the 8K I seem to lose all the work, any idea's getting V.fustrated!!
I think you have a problem with at least one of the following (in order of their likelihood):thanks for the info, but I cant seem to move from the bevel setting stage. I can produce a arm hair cutting bevel (using Norton 1K/8K), but when I move to the 8K I seem to lose all the work, any idea's getting V.fustrated!!
Excellent tutorial....thanks for sharing that!
One thing I've always wondered about is the pyramid. When sharpening any blade, I've always progressed step-wise to finer grits. In the Lyn Abrams video, he describes counting strokes while alternating between two different grits. I don't understand the logic behind that at all.
When working with a razor, I am pretty much unable to detect a burr by feel as I can with a knife. I've always used the burr as a signal that I'm done with one grit and ready to go finer.
Does anyone else follow Lyn's method?
I think you have a problem with at least one of the following (in order of their likelihood):
- you cannot evaluate your edge properly - here's where you can learn more about various tests http://straightrazorplace.com/srpwiki/index.php/Sharpness_tests_explained
- you have not done enough work on the 1k - learn how to use the TNT too
- your stokes are terrible (e.g. lifting the spine)
thanks for the info, but I cant seem to move from the bevel setting stage. I can produce a arm hair cutting bevel (using Norton 1K/8K), but when I move to the 8K I seem to lose all the work, any idea's getting V.fustrated!!
cheers for the quick reply, a 4K semms the obvious choice, does it mean I have to splash out on another norton? I bought the 1K/8K because the blades had become really blunt