Hi,
I've been interested in straight razor shaving for a while, but was
getting more experience with DE razors first. Recently however, I've
decided to try a straight razor. And since I always strive for the
best, I've acquired a Gold Dollar...
Ok, not exactly, but it was
the first one to arrive.
Now the second thing to arrive were lapping film sheets I purchased
for Rick Boone. So, I thought, GDs are not all that sharp, so, why not
try to hone it and see if I can make it in this world? I did that,
with "interesting" results. I've exchanged a few messages with Rick
about this experience, and I think I've learned a thing or two in the
process. Maybe others will as well, or more likely, people with more
experience can help me improve my honing skills. So, an abridged
version of our e-mail exchange (with permission from Rick)
follows. Let me know what you think.
By the way, shaving with a GD right out of the box has been a
wonderful experience. Not very efficient, but very enlightening. The
reason is that you can actually try many positions for the razor
without getting cut, since it is not all that sharp. But it has helped
me greatly to learn how to hold a straight razor. For that alone, I
think it has been a successful experience. Now if I learn how to hone
better, then it will have been completely worth the $4 I spent on it...
So, at the end of this message exchange is where I am right now. I
plan to spend some more time on the 220 grit honing, see if I can make
it closer to sharp. What do you guys suggest?
Sergio.
----------------
> Ok, so this is my first attempt at honing, and I am really not
> experienced in straight razor shaving either, so, wish me luck. I'll
> let you know how it turns out.
> Thanks,
> Sergio.
Brave guy this one, huh?
-----------------
> Hi Rick,
> I finished honing the razor. But results were less than
> perfect. Well, being this my very first honing, I shouldn't have
> expected much anyway.
> I did *many* laps with the 12um sheet, and it was becoming grayish
> from the steel being removed, but it was not even near good. So, I
> went out and purchased a 220 grit sand paper to wear out the "bad"
> parts faster. I honed it well, did at least 200 laps on it. It was
> not cutting hair at all, no ping from the HHT test, no cutting arm
> hair. But it was time to move on. So I went back to the 12um
> sheet, and did about 150 laps. Then onto 5um, about 80 or so. 3um,
> another 80 or so. On the 1um I did about 150 as well, then I added
> the damp paper and did another 120 or so.
> After all these torturing, it would not ping on HHT, or cut arm
> hair! Maybe I didn't set the bevel right, even though I was very
> careful. But the razor "seemed" sharper than before on my fingers. I
> did a quick shave test, and it is indeed much better than before,
> I'll know for sure tomorrow.
> So apparently I did something right, but I am certain it is not
> honed by any semi-serious standard. Anyway, this is my very first
> attempt, I haven't even shaved fully with a straight, so total
> newbie here.
----------------------
> Hi again,
> I shave with the "honed" gold dollar this morning. It was
> strange. Reasonably smooth (at least compared with the original
> edge), but didn't cut very much. It was smooth, I managed a WTG, a
> ATG and a sort of XTG pass. I was feeling very happy about it, but
> the stubble was simply still there. I finished with a DE.
> Anyway, I have a theory, and would like to know your opinion on
> it. It seems that I managed to actually smooth out the edge but it
> was just not a very sharp one. So, if this is right, I should go
> back to the 220 grit (or even lower) for a while to get a good edge,
> and then smooth it out with the film. See the pic attached to help
> make some sense of it.
> What do you think ?
-----------------------
From Rick:
Okay...the honing you described is very typical. Simply put, you did
not spend enough time on the 12 UM film. This can take some time.
Yes, you'll see grey slush, that's metal being removed. It's hard to
say how many strokes. It may take 100, it may take 4000. I don't
like to put a number on it. You'll know you are ready to move on when
the blade is EFFORTLESSLY cutting arm hair. When it STARTS to cut,
good. If you did about 400 strokes to get there, do about 400 more to
get where you NEED to be. Now try to cut the arm hair. Effortless.
That's what you want.
Okay...move on to the next film. 5 UM. Black. This one, start on 20
to 50 strokes... Now, the test on this is it should swipe away the
arm hair. When I come off the film I don't wipe the water off the
blade. I mean, we are wet shaving with water anyway... It should
take hair off like a squeegee removes water off a window. Just one
swipe. You'll have a blade full of wet arm hair.
Move to the next film if the above test passes. Do...I dunno...20
strokes. Pretty light. Easy, smooth strokes. Nice and even. Now do
the same thing on the last film, the green one. Very finesse like
strokes.
Wipe off the blade. Take the blade and sort of hover it over your arm
hair. Well, above the base of your arm hair. Say your hair is 2"
long, Put the blade about 1/2-1" up. Lightly push the blade forward.
Look at it and you should see little hairs on the blade. Now she's
ready!
Now...if step one or step two is not right, you will not get this
final test. Step one can take a VERY long time. It can be very
frustrating. But, the reward when you get that shave ready edge and
get that grin on your face...very rewarding!
---------------------------
> Well, thanks for the explanation, it is then what I thought. Putting
> a number on the laps is indeed complex. I know it takes many laps
> (that's why I've given up sharpening knifes, too much work, and the
> reward wasn't there for me), and I've done more than what I usually
> would do, but clearly it was not enough. So, when I read do +- 90
> laps on the 12um, I did twice that much, and then I got the 220 grit
> sand paper and did as many there as well. So, while I thought I was
> in good shape, it was actually much less than needed. Well, I've
> been warned that the Gold Dollars take a lot of work, it's been
> suggested that I start with the sand paper because of it.
-----------------------------
From Rick:
if the gold dollar was previously honed you shouldnt need to drop to
the 220. The problems they usually haveis the shoulders. They can be
rough or uneven and it wont set even on the hone, thus causing parts
of the blade to not touch or get honed.
I've been interested in straight razor shaving for a while, but was
getting more experience with DE razors first. Recently however, I've
decided to try a straight razor. And since I always strive for the
best, I've acquired a Gold Dollar...
Ok, not exactly, but it wasthe first one to arrive.
Now the second thing to arrive were lapping film sheets I purchased
for Rick Boone. So, I thought, GDs are not all that sharp, so, why not
try to hone it and see if I can make it in this world? I did that,
with "interesting" results. I've exchanged a few messages with Rick
about this experience, and I think I've learned a thing or two in the
process. Maybe others will as well, or more likely, people with more
experience can help me improve my honing skills. So, an abridged
version of our e-mail exchange (with permission from Rick)
follows. Let me know what you think.
By the way, shaving with a GD right out of the box has been a
wonderful experience. Not very efficient, but very enlightening. The
reason is that you can actually try many positions for the razor
without getting cut, since it is not all that sharp. But it has helped
me greatly to learn how to hold a straight razor. For that alone, I
think it has been a successful experience. Now if I learn how to hone
better, then it will have been completely worth the $4 I spent on it...
So, at the end of this message exchange is where I am right now. I
plan to spend some more time on the 220 grit honing, see if I can make
it closer to sharp. What do you guys suggest?
Sergio.
----------------
> Ok, so this is my first attempt at honing, and I am really not
> experienced in straight razor shaving either, so, wish me luck. I'll
> let you know how it turns out.
> Thanks,
> Sergio.
Brave guy this one, huh?
-----------------
> Hi Rick,
> I finished honing the razor. But results were less than
> perfect. Well, being this my very first honing, I shouldn't have
> expected much anyway.
> I did *many* laps with the 12um sheet, and it was becoming grayish
> from the steel being removed, but it was not even near good. So, I
> went out and purchased a 220 grit sand paper to wear out the "bad"
> parts faster. I honed it well, did at least 200 laps on it. It was
> not cutting hair at all, no ping from the HHT test, no cutting arm
> hair. But it was time to move on. So I went back to the 12um
> sheet, and did about 150 laps. Then onto 5um, about 80 or so. 3um,
> another 80 or so. On the 1um I did about 150 as well, then I added
> the damp paper and did another 120 or so.
> After all these torturing, it would not ping on HHT, or cut arm
> hair! Maybe I didn't set the bevel right, even though I was very
> careful. But the razor "seemed" sharper than before on my fingers. I
> did a quick shave test, and it is indeed much better than before,
> I'll know for sure tomorrow.
> So apparently I did something right, but I am certain it is not
> honed by any semi-serious standard. Anyway, this is my very first
> attempt, I haven't even shaved fully with a straight, so total
> newbie here.
----------------------
> Hi again,
> I shave with the "honed" gold dollar this morning. It was
> strange. Reasonably smooth (at least compared with the original
> edge), but didn't cut very much. It was smooth, I managed a WTG, a
> ATG and a sort of XTG pass. I was feeling very happy about it, but
> the stubble was simply still there. I finished with a DE.
> Anyway, I have a theory, and would like to know your opinion on
> it. It seems that I managed to actually smooth out the edge but it
> was just not a very sharp one. So, if this is right, I should go
> back to the 220 grit (or even lower) for a while to get a good edge,
> and then smooth it out with the film. See the pic attached to help
> make some sense of it.
> What do you think ?
-----------------------
From Rick:
Okay...the honing you described is very typical. Simply put, you did
not spend enough time on the 12 UM film. This can take some time.
Yes, you'll see grey slush, that's metal being removed. It's hard to
say how many strokes. It may take 100, it may take 4000. I don't
like to put a number on it. You'll know you are ready to move on when
the blade is EFFORTLESSLY cutting arm hair. When it STARTS to cut,
good. If you did about 400 strokes to get there, do about 400 more to
get where you NEED to be. Now try to cut the arm hair. Effortless.
That's what you want.
Okay...move on to the next film. 5 UM. Black. This one, start on 20
to 50 strokes... Now, the test on this is it should swipe away the
arm hair. When I come off the film I don't wipe the water off the
blade. I mean, we are wet shaving with water anyway... It should
take hair off like a squeegee removes water off a window. Just one
swipe. You'll have a blade full of wet arm hair.
Move to the next film if the above test passes. Do...I dunno...20
strokes. Pretty light. Easy, smooth strokes. Nice and even. Now do
the same thing on the last film, the green one. Very finesse like
strokes.
Wipe off the blade. Take the blade and sort of hover it over your arm
hair. Well, above the base of your arm hair. Say your hair is 2"
long, Put the blade about 1/2-1" up. Lightly push the blade forward.
Look at it and you should see little hairs on the blade. Now she's
ready!
Now...if step one or step two is not right, you will not get this
final test. Step one can take a VERY long time. It can be very
frustrating. But, the reward when you get that shave ready edge and
get that grin on your face...very rewarding!
---------------------------
> Well, thanks for the explanation, it is then what I thought. Putting
> a number on the laps is indeed complex. I know it takes many laps
> (that's why I've given up sharpening knifes, too much work, and the
> reward wasn't there for me), and I've done more than what I usually
> would do, but clearly it was not enough. So, when I read do +- 90
> laps on the 12um, I did twice that much, and then I got the 220 grit
> sand paper and did as many there as well. So, while I thought I was
> in good shape, it was actually much less than needed. Well, I've
> been warned that the Gold Dollars take a lot of work, it's been
> suggested that I start with the sand paper because of it.
-----------------------------
From Rick:
if the gold dollar was previously honed you shouldnt need to drop to
the 220. The problems they usually haveis the shoulders. They can be
rough or uneven and it wont set even on the hone, thus causing parts
of the blade to not touch or get honed.
