Chin and Lower Lip

[smokey0325]

Straight razor veterans:

What are some of your tips and tricks to shaving against the grain on the chin/lower lip region. I have no problem WTG, XTG both directions and even diagonal, but every time I go ATG, I wind up with a nick either right at the top of the chin or right below the lip line. My problem is I can't figure out a reasonable solution to stretch the skin tight enough to avoid razor skipping.

What's your approach?

 

[seattleshaver]

My "tip or trick" is to not do it ATG there.

 

[Gaznix]

Make sure your wtg pass is a good one, if not repeat it, then go xtg in both directions before going atg.

I find I really have to get the hair shirt before going against. Obviously get the hair as soft as poss with your preshave routine. I like to include proraso preshave, YMMV with it but I really like it, I have both red and green, probably prefer the menthol feel of green.

Let me know how you go.

 

[Twelvefret]

Straight razor veterans:

What are some of your tips and tricks to shaving against the grain on the chin/lower lip region. I have no problem WTG, XTG both directions and even diagonal, but every time I go ATG, I wind up with a nick either right at the top of the chin or right below the lip line. My problem is I can't figure out a reasonable solution to stretch the skin tight enough to avoid razor skipping.

What's your approach?

Use both hands. Hold the tip in your non dominant hand. Move your lips as you guide your razor. Also, ask its really necessary to go ATG. I have a scar from a childhood fall which makes this part difficult.

The best tool for my nose and lip area is a Schick Type E. I also use it to set my side burns.

Fact is, no one can tell you how to shave your face. Hair thickness, directional growth, and the degree of coarseness are all factors in how much you can push an edge.

 

[*stefan*]

I’m not either doing ATG under the lip, only WTG and XTX.
With XTG-pass, careful that the end of razor is under the lip.
And use end of tongue stretch the skin by pressing up and out.

If I would do ATG under lip I’d use this grip below.
But my skin don’t like ATG there at all and don’t need it.

Image:Straight_Razor_Grip_ATG.jpg

 

[Twelvefret]

Two handed is a safer bet.

 

[*stefan*]

Yes I would use a finger on the toe also from other hand, thanks.

 

[steveclarkus]

I’m not either doing ATG under the lip, only WTG and XTX.
With XTG-pass, careful that the end of razor is under the lip.
And use end of tongue stretch the skin by pressing up and out.

If I would do ATG under lip I’d use this grip below.
But my skin don’t like ATG there at all and don’t need it.

Image:Straight_Razor_Grip_ATG.jpg

I hold the razor with one hand on the tang, the other on the toe and shave my stretched lower lip upward to get those pesky whiskers on the edge. This gives good control and avoids getting cut. Not particularly sexy but effective and safe. Going east west will also work.

 

[GearNoir]

For me, the lower lip is actually a quite easy area thankfully. I do a quite similar scoop maneuver to what I do WTG on the upper lip when getting the philtrum area under the nose. Start where the nose cartilage meets the upper lip, gently and lightly scooping down and flattening the blade put as I go toward the mouth. For the lower lip ATG it’s the same except I start roughly where the front of the chin meets the lowest lip area, gently and lightly scooping up and flattening the blade as I bring it up toward the mouth.

On the actual chin itself, I never go full ATG or is end up with too many cuts and irritation. I always do a ATG/XTG hybrid stroke. Still gets me very close (BBS if I chase enough) but without all the roughness.

 

[smokey0325]

I guess sometimes "good enough" has to be good enough. I'll have to work on controlling my perfectionism it seems. I have a tendency to chase BBS with every shave, like a facial hair sniper.

 

[Twelvefret]

I guess sometimes "good enough" has to be good enough. I'll have to work on controlling my perfectionism it seems. I have a tendency to chase BBS with every shave, like a facial hair sniper.

I try to put myself in the shoes of men who had to use a SR. They were probably like me before I joined the forum. Just get presentable.

 

[StillShaving]

Underneath the chin I find it relatively easy to lay the razor flat and make short choppy strokes ATG. As the angle approaches 45 degrees as it passes outward over the point of the chin it gets much harder to execute smoothly but overall it is enough to finish off the chin area and achieve a good shave.

Underneath the lip, the concave area that is the transition from the chin to the lip is still challenging for me to shave ATG. Swallowing the lower lip to make that area flat helps a lot but I have not perfected it.

 

[Jakebullet]

I’m no expert with less than 60 shaves but I too insist on getting bbs on my chin and lower lip as well as everywhere else that I can. Why buy a Bugatti and drive it at 20mph? I use the straight because it can give the best possible shave. If I thought I could get closer and smoother with my DE then I’d use that.
I can get bbs on my chin, I do my neck first then pull under the chin to stretch it then I buff my way upwards taking great care. Then I switch hands and repeat on the other side. A wet cushioning lather is essential. I use short swiping strokes and hug the curves millimetre by millimetre. I do wtg, xtg then atg then atg again on the touch up.
It took some weeks of daily improvements to learn it and some blood too but learn it I did. Doing the bottom lip is just a matter of pressure like everywhere else. I found these areas extremely challenging at first as well as my top lip too but I like a challenge and I’d feel defeated if I couldn’t get it how I like it. Cheeks are easy pickings, I won’t grow a moustache or a beard or a goatee unless I want one, I want bbs and I’ll learn to shave the way I have to to get it or bleed out trying

 

[Clay S]

I think I'm going back to my old method of "get r done". I look best with a circle beard

 

[RayClem]

I "cheat". I shave two passes using my straight razor and then grab a DE razor for a clean-up pass on my chin and jawline. I have not been able to determine the grain of the beard on my chin; it seems to stick straight out. Right under my lower lip, there is a perceptible grain direction.

 

[smokey0325]

I want bbs and I’ll learn to shave the way I have to to get it or bleed out trying

Amen to that!!

 

[Twelvefret]

I've been experimenting. Right now I am doing a first "knock down" pass with various tools in my collection including another SR. This is followed by two passes with a SR if honed with a Coticule or Thuringian. Regardless of whether I use a SR or safety, I use a '30's Schick on the nostrils and lower lip.

I've found a BBS shave does not always feel good throughout the day. My skin can have a burnished feeling that I don't like. For me, a bit of stubble is acceptable.

 

[RayClem]

My beard grows so quickly that if I get a BBS shave, it remains BBS for only a couple of hours as most. I have sensitive skin and get irritation (but no cuts or nicks) if I try for a BBS shave. It is not worth the irritation to get a couple of hours of BBS, so I am satisfied with a close, comfortable shave.

 

[Twelvefret]

My beard grows so quickly that if I get a BBS shave, it remains BBS for only a couple of hours as most. I have sensitive skin and get irritation (but no cuts or nicks) if I try for a BBS shave. It is not worth the irritation to get a couple of hours of BBS, so I am satisfied with a close, comfortable shave.

There you go!!

 

[Jakebullet]

My beard grows so quickly that if I get a BBS shave, it remains BBS for only a couple of hours as most. I have sensitive skin and get irritation (but no cuts or nicks) if I try for a BBS shave. It is not worth the irritation to get a couple of hours of BBS, so I am satisfied with a close, comfortable shave.

I’m lucky in that my beard grows slowly in the day so a true bbs lasts 12 hours or longer. So I go to bed with a pretty smooth face still then 8 hours later when I wake up the beard is miraculously thick again and needs shaving.