So I acquired a ceramic brush handle with a fox on it that I would like to re-knot. Except I need to remove all the original bristles and glue. Any tips since I can not drill it out? I have removed a good portion, but it seems as I go further down, the ceramic is not glazed, and the glue sticks hard. Is there a chemical/heat/cold I can use to remove this? Thanks in advance.
Ceramic Brush Re-knotting
- Thread starter Radar O\'Reilly
- Start date
If you had a dremel tool I would recommend a small sanding drum to clean out the hole.
If you do not have that a wooden dowel wrapped with sandpaper works almost as well...just a lot slower.
I have also used a wharncliffe knife to scrape out the holes...the ceramic would be pretty hard on one but even just a square edged piece of steel could work. (small flat file used as a scraper).
If you do not have that a wooden dowel wrapped with sandpaper works almost as well...just a lot slower.
I have also used a wharncliffe knife to scrape out the holes...the ceramic would be pretty hard on one but even just a square edged piece of steel could work. (small flat file used as a scraper).
I would be afraid of using a torch or extreme heat, A torch could crack the handle and any extreme heat could cause any oils from handling or even shaving soap that might have soaked into the unglazed handle to burn and discolor.
There are some chemicals that can remove epoxy. They are very harsh and often carcinogenic, but used carefully they might be an option. I would also worry about the graphic on the handle. If it is glazed in, it should not be a problem. If it was painted on, the chemicals would most likely remove that too. A ceramic handle should be resistant to solvents though.
I would probably start with Schwerts suggestion and start with scraping / sanding and move up from there if needed.
There are some chemicals that can remove epoxy. They are very harsh and often carcinogenic, but used carefully they might be an option. I would also worry about the graphic on the handle. If it is glazed in, it should not be a problem. If it was painted on, the chemicals would most likely remove that too. A ceramic handle should be resistant to solvents though.
I would probably start with Schwerts suggestion and start with scraping / sanding and move up from there if needed.
I'd first try a pair of pliers, duct tape,paperclip/wires and Barbicide as your line suggests. If those fail then I too would have to go with the Dremel type tool as well.
The little sanding drum they sell , as suggested , can work wonders. If you don't have a Dremel not a problem. Chuck one in a regular drill. You may even want to secure your drill , gently, in a vice to allow you the freedom of holding the brush two handed and not trying to weild a heavy drill in one hand while trying to maneuver the brush with the other.
Stay away from the heat,, and depending on the glues used, most solvents don't do much. This is a mechanical removal. Sort of dentistry on a brush opening a cavity.
The little sanding drum they sell , as suggested , can work wonders. If you don't have a Dremel not a problem. Chuck one in a regular drill. You may even want to secure your drill , gently, in a vice to allow you the freedom of holding the brush two handed and not trying to weild a heavy drill in one hand while trying to maneuver the brush with the other.
Stay away from the heat,, and depending on the glues used, most solvents don't do much. This is a mechanical removal. Sort of dentistry on a brush opening a cavity.
- Thread starter
- #5
OK, I took some pictures of how far I have come. I would like to clarify that by heat, I meant like warm/hot water, not actual flames, going under the notion that this is like a hot glue. This stuff that is left is tough as can be. You can see how the glazed areas gave up their glue pretty easy, but this unglazed stuff is holding on tight. Would turpentine/paint thinner/mineral spirits dropped in a little at a time soften this stuff up? I ask because the next time I can get to store that carried drums for my little grinder is about a week away.
That looks pretty good. If the knot will drop in, there really is no need to clean this out any more.
I would avoid turpentine or other solvents...I can see that soaking into the unglazed ceramic and interfering with glue later.
A dowel wrapped with sandpaper should do that up if needed.
I would avoid turpentine or other solvents...I can see that soaking into the unglazed ceramic and interfering with glue later.
A dowel wrapped with sandpaper should do that up if needed.
Sounds reasonable. If the knot fits well , and this stuff doesn't seem to want to come out, leave it. Thinners and such , as suggested , may soak into the unglazed ceramic and possibly cause problems later. And who knows what will soften this stuff. Modern epoxies will fill any voids and keep that knot in place pretty much no matter what.
Similar threads
