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Can't open Schick injector

I just received a Schick Type E injector. It has an old blade and is quite dirty. I would like to open the razor, clean it out and give it a slight polish. But I cant get the front piece to rotate. There are small stops on each side that prevent rotation. I can't use much force, as there is a sharp blade in there. The attached photo shows the two stops.

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That version does not open! Schick discontinued that feature early in the E2 series and didn't offer it again until the 1950s. When you push out the old blade it will take most of the crud with it. If you force it open damage will result.
 
That version does not open! Schick discontinued that feature early in the E2 series and didn't offer it again until the 1950s. When you push out the old blade it will take most of the crud with it. If you force it open damage will result.
Well ... turns out there were two blades jammed in there, one on top of the other. Using pliers to grip the front part, I was able to wist it open without any damage. Before I close it up again, I will peen those tabs down, making future opening easier. Now where's that toothbrush and the Flitz?
 
The previous models were designed to open, see attached instructions. They had a tab stop at the right. The Model E has tab stops on both sides, making it difficult to open. But by pulling up while rotating, you can open it. The razor was received with two blades jammed into it. They were rusted and bonded in place with oxidation, dirt, etc. Had I not opened it, it would be unusable - not to mention filthy. Once I opened it, I was able to clean it, polish it and then clean it well in my ultrasonic cleaner. It is now usable and pristine. And it still locks up solid when rotating the front piece back into position. See attached photo. I wish I had a photo of it before I cleaned it.

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Schick instructions.jpeg
 
That tab was put there to prevent the spring from moving. Later they pinned it in place. I am glad you were able to manage it without damaging the razor.
 
The previous models were designed to open, see attached instructions. They had a tab stop at the right. The Model E has tab stops on both sides, making it difficult to open. But by pulling up while rotating, you can open it. The razor was received with two blades jammed into it. They were rusted and bonded in place with oxidation, dirt, etc. Had I not opened it, it would be unusable - not to mention filthy. Once I opened it, I was able to clean it, polish it and then clean it well in my ultrasonic cleaner. It is now usable and pristine. And it still locks up solid when rotating the front piece back into position. See attached photo. I wish I had a photo of it before I cleaned it.

View attachment 1179217View attachment 1179219

Those are the instructions for a different version of the Model E. The versions with the pins on both sides were not meant to be opened. That pin is there for a reason.

Trying to open the head the way by forcing the spring past a pin could theoretically cause damage to the spring or head that would prevent the head from being closed tight enough to prevent blade movement during the shave. Of course, having two blades stuck in it certainly wouldn't do it any good either and that shouldn't even have been possible. I hope it shaves well for you after all that.
 
Those are the instructions for a different version of the Model E. The versions with the pins on both sides were not meant to be opened. That pin is there for a reason.

Trying to open the head the way by forcing the spring past a pin could theoretically cause damage to the spring or head that would prevent the head from being closed tight enough to prevent blade movement during the shave. Of course, having two blades stuck in it certainly wouldn't do it any good either and that shouldn't even have been possible. I hope it shaves well for you after all that.
I think they added the pin to the left side to prevent the spring from moving without the user's knowledge and then being exposed to a loose blade. So I believe it was done for safety. Perhaps there were some unfavorable experiences. But I find that I can rotate the spring for cleaning and that it still locks up rock solid when I rotate it back. I ordered a pack of chicks so that I can place the razor into rotation.
 
To extract a blade or blades in any Schick other than a D or E-1, insert the key and insert a new blade OR, if you don’t have a new blade, use a nail file and needle nose pliers. The head on any Schick other than a D or E-1 is not designed to open
 
Brother Eastcoast30,

Respectfully, your reasoning is well intended but frankly it's flat out wrong. All the advice you have received above is correct. I've shaved with injector razors off and on since 1957, yes 1957, and I have 12 of them.

You were very lucky to not have damaged the spring. A healthy "strong and sound" spring is crucial to the injector head. You may not be as lucky the next time you try the procedure. I urge you to quit while you are ahead.
 
I agree that the spring is of the utmost importance- it holds the blade firm by keeping the lower tray tight to the cover. Should I lose that tension, I would have to bend the spring back to increase that tension. But I find that rotating back and forth has not changed that. In the up position, it remains rock solid. I have some chicks on the way and that will be the true test.
 
One of the selling points of the Schick injector system was that at no point was it necessary to touch a blade. Why they tried an opening head is beyond me, and I'm not surprised at all that Schick quiickly abandoned the idea - it was a solution in search of a non-existent problem and probably led to more than a few sliced fingers and worn-out razors.

The Type I Hydro-Magic head does open for rinsing but the blade cannot be removed or fall out. I like my Hydro-Magic a lot even tho I rarely if ever open it. One of those might be a good compromise for you.
 
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