Can't achieve consistent shave quality

[TheMainTeaDude]

I've been shaving with a safety razor for a little bit less than a year and I hardly can remember when I had two perfect BBS shaves in a row.
I shave 3-4 times a week. I have pretty coarse stubble and sensitive skin. I've tried different techniques, stretching the skin or no stretching at all, advanced shaving techniques too. I still have the issue.
I think the main cause can be the blades. For example I can have a really great, close, irritation-free shave with a fresh Wilkinson Sword (or another good blade) but on the second shave the blade seem to lose all of its smoothness and get really aggressive (some get dull) and I get a lot of nicks and irritation.
I've tried Feather blades but they seem too sharp for me. Bic blades seem to work fine as well as Russian Rapira blades, and my last great shave was with a fresh Wilkinson Sword blade.
Can you advice blades that retain their initial sharpness well and have good smoothness in general? I don't mind shaving advices too.

 

[timetofly]

First and foremost, welcome to B&B!
What razor(s) are you using?
What soap(s) are you using?

 

[Guido75]

Dear @TheMainTeaDude, welcome to B&B!

In connection to the request above - I would like to ask / suggest: how is your pressure? Or better said: are you using close to zero pressure?

And my second question would be: have you tried to shave daily? It may sound counterintuitive with your sensitive skin (to which I can fully relate), but if your stubble is coarse shaving more regularly will make it easier to shave, because the stubble itself is less. A mild blade would definitely help in the beginning (I have had good shaves with a Dorco Titan), although it is said that sensitive skin can actually benefit from a sharper blade.

One other change I made in the course of time which helped me a lot is shaving cold. It keeps the skin tighter while softening due to the moisture.

Happy to serve, so keep your input coming!

Cheers,

Guido.

 

[JAHE]

First and foremost, welcome to B&B!

+1 Welcome!

What razor(s) are you using?
What soap(s) are you using?

Which Wilkinson Sword blade did you use...?
Wilkinson Sword made in Germany?
Gillette Wilkinson Sword made in India?
Gillette Wilkinson Sword made in China?

These blades shave totally different.
I just seek to understand your starting point, blade wise...

(Besides, according to your description I'd best guess you shaved with the german made Wilkinson Sword blade. This particular blade significantly(!) gets sharper on shave 2 once the initial coating wears off.)

Cheers!
Another Guido

 

[VerbaVolant]

... I get a lot of nicks and irritation...
... I don't mind shaving advices too.

Your problem is inconsistent lather. Good lather that is.
German Wilkinson Sword blades are decent, if I remember correctly. Start with a good soap and maintain the same razor/blade combination while paying attention to lather and how many strokes per pass you are doing. Going over the same area with consecutive strokes could produce irritation if lather is not protective (cushioning enough and with good residual slickness).
Like others before me suggested, you need to provide more information regarding your setup and technique.
Good luck.

 

[Phoenixkh]

Welcome to B&B. You didn't mention what razor or razors you using as @timetofly and @VerbaVolant mentioned... and which soap. The suggestions might differ somewhat when we know those things.

 

[TheMainTeaDude]

First and foremost, welcome to B&B!
What razor(s) are you using?
What soap(s) are you using?

I mostly use Pearl SSH-01 and L-55 Open comb
For soaps I really like Proraso red and also Pearl Shavers spirit
I get really great shaves when I use Proraso and fresh blades

 

[Ckmaui]

for me trying 40+ blades about 20 razors and 20+ soaps reckon I can make a perfect shave but still chasing that perfect repeat
but I can say I kept learning and trying
IMHO one just has to try make some notes and realize unless you find it early might take some time to get a truly perfect shave all the time and even then I might have a touch less once in a while

I do not feel its any one component but how they all work together and your own technique and preference

the very last cream I tried CC Cream put me over to WOW I can truly achieve this amazing shave more than ever using a Wolfman razor and a few choice blades and repeat that shave almost at will
before that soap was SV and I think the during shave is a bit nicer NOW I want that in shave and post shave together
the Wolfman 1.15 is to much for daily use after a week BUT the times I use it WOW so efficient at the cost of 5days in a row is to much so as some do rotate razors ? me I want ONE daily so the .95 and the Timeless are in a face off then that winner will face the tatara !
I have been at DE only 2yrs and still finding my favs but I am loving the fun of this as it has turned into something I LOVE and a hobby but wont be collecting

the soaps I want to dial to 2 favs and blades 1 or 2 ? and I am down to a few that work but once I find that final razor brand I will narrow that down to the top 2

so again for me its all relating as some razors I notice perform great with one blade where another razor that blade is the worst ? so it really for me is that blade razor combo and the soap that works with that combo

am I overthinking it ? no idea but I am finding that amazing shaves that I want so well worth the testing

 

[Curkio]

Try an aggressive razor with a sharp blade. Worked for me when I had similar problems starting.

 

[TheMainTeaDude]

Dear @TheMainTeaDude, welcome to B&B!

In connection to the request above - I would like to ask / suggest: how is your pressure? Or better said: are you using close to zero pressure?

And my second question would be: have you tried to shave daily? It may sound counterintuitive with your sensitive skin (to which I can fully relate), but if your stubble is coarse shaving more regularly will make it easier to shave, because the stubble itself is less. A mild blade would definitely help in the beginning (I have had good shaves with a Dorco Titan), although it is said that sensitive skin can actually benefit from a sharper blade.

One other change I made in the course of time which helped me a lot is shaving cold. It keeps the skin tighter while softening due to the moisture.

Happy to serve, so keep your input coming!

Cheers,

Guido.

I always keep in mind not to use pressure, but I'm not gonna lie, my technique isn't perfect

And for the second question, I rarely go for BBS two days in a row. I actually tried doing so today, but since my skin was a bit irritated from my previous (unsuccessful) shave it didn't go very well. I was still left with irritated skin and some of the stubble.

 

[timetofly]

I mostly use Pearl SSH-01 and L-55 Open comb
For soaps I really like Proraso red and also Pearl Shavers spirit
I get really great shaves when I use Proraso and fresh blades

Perfect! Others can now see this, and make the proper suggestions, moreso, those that might be using the same set ups.
Good luck, sir!

 

[TheMainTeaDude]

+1 Welcome!

Which Wilkinson Sword blade did you use...?
Wilkinson Sword made in Germany?
Gillette Wilkinson Sword made in India?
Gillette Wilkinson Sword made in China?

These blades shave totally different.
I just seek to understand your starting point, blade wise...

(Besides, according to your description I'd best guess you shaved with the german made Wilkinson Sword blade. This particular blade significantly(!) gets sharper on shave 2 once the initial coating wears off.)

Cheers!
Another Guido

You're right, I use the Germany made ones

 

[TheMainTeaDude]

Your problem is inconsistent lather. Good lather that is.
German Wilkinson Sword blades are decent, if I remember correctly. Start with a good soap and maintain the same razor/blade combination while paying attention to lather and how many strokes per pass you are doing. Going over the same area with consecutive strokes could produce irritation if lather is not protective (cushioning enough and with good residual slickness).
Like others before me suggested, you need to provide more information regarding your setup and technique.
Good luck.

Speaking of lather, I've been wondering, will lather with less water added have more cushioning or the cushioning properties will remain the same in lather that is more slick?

 

[Guido75]

And for the second question, I rarely go for BBS two days in a row.

Well I wasn’t necessarily suggesting to go for BBS actually - just more regular shaves. And on the subject of BBS, perhaps it is an idea to first shave only with the grain/growth (WTG) and may be XTG (across the grain), but not yet against the grain (ATG). In the beginning of my DE shaving I was pushing (but with the razor) myself too hard for a BBS all day everyday, but that came at the expense of irritation on my neck and weepers to boot.

Doing it more mildly helped me a lot. And I got a lot from the four pass shave which is all about taking it easy and all achieve an excellent shave.

 

[TheMainTeaDude]

Well I wasn’t necessarily suggesting to go for BBS actually - just more regular shaves. And on the subject of BBS, perhaps it is an idea to first shave only with the grain/growth (WTG) and may be XTG (across the grain), but not yet against the grain (ATG). In the beginning of my DE shaving I was pushing (but with the razor) myself too hard for a BBS all day everyday, but that came at the expense of irritation on my neck and weepers to boot.

Doing it more mildly helped me a lot. And I got a lot from the four pass shave which is all about taking it easy and all achieve an excellent shave.

I've tried doing 4 pass shave once. It wasn't a great experience, I ended up with a lot of nicks, I guess using a fresh Feather blade for that wasn't a good idea.

I can get pretty good but not BBS shaves when I shave WTG, XTG and stretch my skin like they do at barbershops. I also can go XTG in the other direction.
Usually I have no irritation from that and can shave everyday like that.

 

[Phoenixkh]

I have some skin issues that often leave my skin with raised red bumps. I don't know if you have something similar but I did two things. I went to my dermatologist and she prescribed some "metro gel" (nickname) and told me to avoid scents as much as possible.

Quite a few of us here love Canada Shaving Soap.... it's a very clean soap that provides excellent slickness, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Canada-Shaving-Soap-Protective-Incredible/dp/B08M3DTXMC At first glance, this looks like an expensive soap. The tub is huge.. and is fuller than full. I've been using mine for months now and you can see where I've scraped some off around the edges and a bit off the top. This stuff will last a long, long time.

I'm sure it's not a cure-all but unscented soaps are something I've grown to appreciate. The other suggestions offered have been on point as well.

 

[Medivh]

My guess is that the problem comes from the razor and maybe your prep. My advise is to try some other razor like a Razorock Game Changer .84, Razorock Lupo .95 or perhaps Karve Overlander. The other thing that you might try to focus is improving your shaving prep. Try using a shampoo on your beard while taking a shower.

I've been doing it for a while now and I get much better results, since a shower alone doesn't make a huge difference on my coarse beard and I've recently found some very moisturising shampoo that makes my beard even softer than pretty much any other product I've used so far. I also prep my face before I shave with cold water and that also helps me a bit.

Most call the razor ''just a tool'' and that if doesn't work for you, then it's your fault and not the ''tool''. I think that analogy is not entirely true and my razors are not hammers with which I hit nails carelessly. I feel like my razors are like musical instruments and while I can literally shave with any razor in existence and get at least a DFS, not all of them would give me the same pleasure, enjoyment or comfort during and after the shave. The same goes for the music instruments. Every great pianist, guitarist etc. can use absolutely anything he gets his hands on, but that doesn't mean that he's going to enjoy each and everyone of them.

You must enjoy shaving and feel the razor doing it's work like it was meant for you and not force it when it's obvious that even after countless attempts, things haven't improved much and you shave like you're forced to do it.

 

[JAHE]

You're right, I use the Germany made ones

Then I'd point you to two blades:

1. Gillette Platinum
Medium sharpness, very smooth.
2. Gillette PermaSharp.
Quite sharp, but not harsh at all.

Unfortunately the blade is just one of the variables. My shave results have significantly improved once I have started "beard mapping".

Definitely keep an eye on your lather, too. A slick and well hydrated is essential imo for a proper shave. I'd point you to Stirling Soap or Declaration Grooming... (there are samples available).

I'm sure you'll get many more valuable tips fron other members...

 

[VerbaVolant]

Speaking of lather, I've been wondering, will lather with less water added have more cushioning or the cushioning properties will remain the same in lather that is more slick?

In my opinion, there is an optimal hydration level for the lather that provides the protective film and, at the same time, ensures some level of residual slickness. I use more product (tallow soaps) and less water for achieving that lather quality. Cushioning properties decline when adding water. All products can offer slick lather but few can deliver cushioning and residual slickness.
I used a tub of Proraso Red croap and, while I had difficulties at the beginning, I remember getting excellent lather and shaves with it.
Before anything else, my advice to you would be to stop chasing a BBS shave, for now. Focus on getting your technique so good that you can achieve daily consecutive comfortable shaves for several months, before trying the next step.

 

[TheMainTeaDude]

My guess is that the problem comes from the razor and maybe your prep. My advise is to try some other razor like a Razorock Game Changer .84, Razorock Lupo .95 or perhaps Karve Overlander. The other thing that you might try to focus is improving your shaving prep. Try using a shampoo on your beard while taking a shower.

I've been doing it for a while now and I get much better results, since a shower alone doesn't make a huge difference on my coarse beard and I've recently found some very moisturising shampoo that makes my beard even softer than pretty much any other product I've used so far. I also prep my face before I shave with cold water and that also helps me a bit.

Most call the razor ''just a tool'' and that if doesn't work for you, then it's your fault and not the ''tool''. I think that analogy is not entirely true and my razors are not hammers with which I hit nails carelessly. I feel like my razors are like musical instruments and while I can literally shave with any razor in existence and get at least a DFS, not all of them would give me the same pleasure, enjoyment or comfort during and after the shave. The same goes for the music instruments. Every great pianist, guitarist etc. can use absolutely anything he gets his hands on, but that doesn't mean that he's going to enjoy each and everyone of them.

You must enjoy shaving and feel the razor doing it's work like it was meant for you and not force it when it's obvious that even after countless attempts, things haven't improved much and you shave like you're forced to do it.

My current shave preparation is quite good - face cleanser, hot towel, pre shave oil. But using shampoo sounds like an interesting idea, I might give it a shot next time I shave. Thanks!