Bevel Images of Honing Mistakes (and Successes) Under Magnification

[SlowRain]

Some people have the ability to take pictures of their bevels under magnification. I don't know if such a thread already exists (my searches were unsuccessful), but I'd like to know what some common honing mistakes look like (successes, too). I realize the shave test is the best test, but I'd like to know what a bevel should and shouldn't look like--sort of a picture tutorial.

I'm interested in seeing what deep scratches look like. Images at the different steps/grits. What it looks like when you're still not ready to go on to the next step/grit. What it looks like when you are now ready to go on to the next step/grit. What it looks like when you're not making good enough contact (although the marker should help with this, too). Too much pressure. Not enough pressure. Any other errors that are common and easy to see using a bit of magnification.

I'd especially like to see some Coticule images at the different slurry thicknesses/consistencies, if that's possible, and what it looks like when you alter your slurry.

Basically, anything that might show a newbie what I'm doing wrong, and even better if you can mention what the error is which is causing the ugliness shown in the image and how to correct it.

Thanks.

 

[rickboone1]

Focus more on how it feels.

 

[buca3152]

Scope pictures can be helpful in the learning stage. I use to use 60x loupes but now I use the 10x and can see more with it now, than I could see with the 60x. I agree with Rick, feel becomes your guidance but until then a scope or magnifier may help us here to help you. If you are using naturals, your image will be scratchy as opposed to synthetics that leave a more polished mirror image.

 

[blackhhawk]

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/362174-Coticule-edges-under-microscope?highlight=
Hope this helps

I know what you're looking for, but your best bet is to get a scope or loupe and hone. Hone a lot and use it. You'll start to see things and they will make sense. Just remember that you aren't chasing a mirror finish on natural stones. Also remember to remove scratches from the previous stone before you move up, if you're using synthetics. A right and wrong bevel have so many different examples because no every one is going to look the same, it really is more so a matter of picking up the feel for it. Hearing that used to make me frustrated but I got it eventually and you will too.

 

[SliceOfLife]

I'm interested in seeing what deep scratches look like. Images at the different steps/grits. What it looks like when you're still not ready to go on to the next step/grit. What it looks like when you are now ready to go on to the next step/grit. What it looks like when you're not making good enough contact (although the marker should help with this, too). Too much pressure. Not enough pressure. Any other errors that are common and easy to see using a bit of magnification.

It doesn't work that way. Jumping to a 10k off his 3k may be too big a jump for Buca, but it might work great for me. Likewise, what is too much pressure for you may be perfectly fine for him. And what is too much pressure for me at a certain point in honing a certain razor on a certain hone may be ideal at another time with other variables present. You're not ever going to be using "too much pressure" without realizing it (for instance unless you're using cartoonish levels of pressure at all stages of honing). Your honing will just develop in a way that makes use of that pressure. Uneven pressure on the other hand will cause problems of unwanted smiles or frowns or differing degrees of refinement at different points on the edge.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Once you have set your bevels, you really will not spend as much time on your progression stones.

So while Brooksie is right about the feel, Buca hits the nail on the head, until you have honed enough, you will not know what that is supposed to feel like.

Scratchpattern/stria is your friend. Once the bevel is set and the edge is sharp and cutting your hair do 10-15 or whatever it takes, light finishing/polishing strokes with the edge 90 degrees to the stone edge. You want to establish a 90 degree scratch pattern on the bevels.

On your next stone in your progression, after the edge begins to feel smooth on the stones, do 10-15 light finishing laps, heel forward at 45 degrees to the stone edge. Look at the edge under magnification and continue until all the 90 degree stria has been removed and only the 45 degree stria is visible. At that point you have polished all the 1K stria and refined the edge.

On your next stone do the same only change your finishing strokes back to 90 degrees, removing all the 45 degree stria. Try to remember what the razor felt like at the polishing strokes that, will eventually be you cue when you are ready to move to the next stone.

Between the feel of the razor on the stone and the thumb pad test, that you can only learn by touching enough sharp edges you will get to the point where you do not have to look at the bevel as much. Until that time magnification is your friend.

Sharpie ink will also tell you if you are honing all the way to the edge, once you have a good flat bevel set it should not be that much of an issue. Remember that sharpening occurs at 1K, everything else is polishing the 1k edge. You must polish the bevel to polish the edge.

There are also multiple variables, the composition of your stones, stone progression, type of razor, hardness of the steel and pressure that will affect your results. Only by doing, will you learn how these factors impact your results.

Deep scratch/stria will result in a chip at the edge. All deep stria must be removed, the finer the stria the straighter the edge and smoother the shave.

 

[rickboone1]

Polish the bevel to polish the edge? I'm lost.

 

[Brooksie967]

So while Brooksie is right about the feel, Buca hits the nail on the head, until you have honed enough, you will not know what that is supposed to feel like.

Did I say that?

 

[Brooksie967]

Polish the bevel to polish the edge? I'm lost.

Ex: razor was previously honed with tape and only half of the diameter of the bevel is contacting the stone and the very edge of the blade is not making contact. This is not good.

Adding 1 piece of tape at the very end of honing (for some) works to create a 'micro bevel' but wouldn't contact the entire bevel.

 

[jpcwon]

On your next stone do the same only change your finishing strokes back to 90 degrees, removing all the 45 degree stria.

I always try to avoid 90-degree stria in all phases of honing....I always hone using either an x-stroke or a heel-forward stroke so that the striations will not be 90 degrees to the edge....That's just me though, YMMV....

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Sorry, it was Boone who said, it is about the feel. I was interrupted while writing the post.

The goal of the progression, post bevel setting is to refine/polish the edge. With the exception of Micro Beveling we must polish the bevels to reach the edge.

Polishing the bevels without touching the edge does not affect the edge. Once the bevels are set correctly and the edge is sharp polishing the bevels should reach the edge. Ink is a simple test for a novice to ensure the bevels are flat and reaching the edge.

 

[Chaloney]

I'm still learning but I've done something similar to brad--alternating straight strokes with heel-leading strokes--so that it is obvious when I've removed all the previous grit scratches. Works well to get easy-to-see visual feedback on your progress. I find it very hard to tell what size scratches I'm looking at through a loop or scope