M
manfire
I bought a 400 grit last month, [ recommended at the time] I need a finer home or 2, Can anyone give me their reccomendations ? And also where s the best place to buy it?
Many thanks,
M
Many thanks,
M
Best all around? I believe a yellow coticule with a slurry stone will fit the bill.
Single-grit: Yellow Coticule
Dual-grit: Norton 4K/8K
However, a 4-sided Tony Miller strop is great, if you're not dealing with razors in need of heavy work. I don't know the best sources for the items above since I don't use them.
Dual-grit: Norton 4K/8K
However, a 4-sided Tony Miller strop is great, if you're not dealing with razors in need of heavy work. I don't know the best sources for the items above since I don't use them.
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+1 on the yellow coticule. Best place to buy depends on where you are. If you're in the US, there's Howard at The Perfect Edge. He is very knowledgeable and has a wide selection of products. You can call him and he will answer all your questions.
Gonna have to disagree with some and say the Norton4/8K (4000/8000)
Its more consistent which makes it eaiser to learn on. I think that using a coticule, especially as an only stone will be more finiky to learn on.
Plus don't use that 400 grit on your razors. Sorry. You wont get the scratches out very quick with a coti or a 4k. You need a 1k if your going to set bevels.
As is well recognized for this a DMT1200 is perfect.
You only use hones below 1000 for really beat up razors that need to have alot of metal removed to get rid of a chip or frown.
Its more consistent which makes it eaiser to learn on. I think that using a coticule, especially as an only stone will be more finiky to learn on.
Plus don't use that 400 grit on your razors. Sorry. You wont get the scratches out very quick with a coti or a 4k. You need a 1k if your going to set bevels.
As is well recognized for this a DMT1200 is perfect.
You only use hones below 1000 for really beat up razors that need to have alot of metal removed to get rid of a chip or frown.
Sure, a Norton 4K/8K will work but that's not the whole story. The Norton needs to lapped frequently and abrasive paper leaves grit stuck in it because it's porous. So, then you need to buy a Norton Flattening Stone or a DMT lapping plate or both because the NFS will eventually need to lapped. Also overhoning is a potential problem on the Norton. Then, you will still need something to finish the edge after 8K.
A coticule is easier to lap because you can use abrasive paper on a flat surface. It doesn't need to lapped as often and it's impossible to overhone with it. If all you are doing is maintaining a razor with a good bevel, the coticule will do a fine job and leave a smoother edge than the 8K. If you go the Norton route, you're going to end up with a coticule, or something like it, anyway.
You could easily use a bbw with slurry stone they are much cheaper and good for maintanance. I still think you get a sharper much sharper edge with norton 4k 8k than the yellow coticule barts always said coticule ith slurry use is bearly shave able it can be refined with water and good strop technique will get you a decent shave if your lucky. norton is much more consistant stone and you get a great shave of the 8k once masterd. Coticule will give slightl better feel on your face I'd recomend 4k/8k work with that for a thew months then get you self a bbw/coti combo 6x2 nice size or 5x 2 etc.
I think that whichever hone you purchase (unless your lucky enough to find one of the finer quality vintage coticules) you will need to finish the edge on either newspaper or chromium oxide. This final polish provides most shavers with the true comfort they are looking for.
Given this, the semantics of which hone is the better is really quite irrelevant as the differences between the final finish are marginal at best, I would suggest you purchase the one you can find at the lowest price.
The Norton is a nice big hone. Being synthetic, it is consistent and should be faultless. This said, there are other synthetic hones out there that are very very easy to use and similarly priced for example the Naniwa 3000/8000 superhone should certainly be on your list.
The yellow Belgian coticules need to be purchased with a coticule slurry stone. They can be variable. Some hone to a finer level than others. So it is worth talking to a trader before you buy. You can of course buy direct from the mine in Belgium. It is natural stone that is relatively expensive because the demand for the hones is high (that might tell you something) and the supply is running out as the mine is getting depleted. You will only be able to purchase a smaller narrower coticule hone for the same price that you will pay for the synthetic hone.
Having said all this, I prefer natural stones to synthetics. I think they are more flexible, give great feed back and are just more satisfying to use and own. That is my heart speaking, but my head tells me that the synthetics are clinically accurate even if they are a bit boring.
Sorry if that doesn't help at all, but really , just flip a coin.
Given this, the semantics of which hone is the better is really quite irrelevant as the differences between the final finish are marginal at best, I would suggest you purchase the one you can find at the lowest price.
The Norton is a nice big hone. Being synthetic, it is consistent and should be faultless. This said, there are other synthetic hones out there that are very very easy to use and similarly priced for example the Naniwa 3000/8000 superhone should certainly be on your list.
The yellow Belgian coticules need to be purchased with a coticule slurry stone. They can be variable. Some hone to a finer level than others. So it is worth talking to a trader before you buy. You can of course buy direct from the mine in Belgium. It is natural stone that is relatively expensive because the demand for the hones is high (that might tell you something) and the supply is running out as the mine is getting depleted. You will only be able to purchase a smaller narrower coticule hone for the same price that you will pay for the synthetic hone.
Having said all this, I prefer natural stones to synthetics. I think they are more flexible, give great feed back and are just more satisfying to use and own. That is my heart speaking, but my head tells me that the synthetics are clinically accurate even if they are a bit boring.
Sorry if that doesn't help at all, but really , just flip a coin.
Thats true, i would back you on this if all he wanted to do was maintain an already shave ready razor, but i get the feeling he wants to do a little more than that (since he has gotten a 400 grit)
As to overhoneing. You can easy over hone a razor on a coti with slurry, and if you were bevel setting, or doing some serious work, you would need a slurry.
But i havnt had any problems with getting grit in my Nortons. Of corse you have to use good quality wet and dry. I do it outside on a sheet of glass with the tap running ontop of it and use minimal pressure. I just start with a lower grit and work my way up. (My DMTC8 is on its way thou so you've got me their
)But mate if you just want to polish a razor that you have gotten shave ready. Coti is a good option as they can do more than just that.
+Buckler
Id have to disagree with you here mate, and i guess bart as well.
I think you can definitly get a better shave of the coti copaired with the 8k. The scratch pater is finner, but cotis are a natural stone so they do vary from stone to stone, which is, as i said originally, why i would recomend the Norton ie more consistant.
I mean i got a super shave of my coti the other day, and took it to my chinese 12k just to see if i could squeeze a bit more comfort out of it. And yes it was better, but i would happily lend a razor to a newbie which had come of my coti, its just that we are all seeking perfection a?
+B
I think that whichever hone you purchase (unless your lucky enough to find one of the finer quality vintage coticules) you will need to finish the edge on either newspaper or chromium oxide. This final polish provides most shavers with the true comfort they are looking for.
Given this, the semantics of which hone is the better is really quite irrelevant as the differences between the final finish are marginal at best, I would suggest you purchase the one you can find at the lowest price.
The Norton is a nice big hone. Being synthetic, it is consistent and should be faultless. This said, there are other synthetic hones out there that are very very easy to use and similarly priced for example the Naniwa 3000/8000 superhone should certainly be on your list.
The yellow Belgian coticules need to be purchased with a coticule slurry stone. They can be variable. Some hone to a finer level than others. So it is worth talking to a trader before you buy. You can of course buy direct from the mine in Belgium. It is natural stone that is relatively expensive because the demand for the hones is high (that might tell you something) and the supply is running out as the mine is getting depleted. You will only be able to purchase a smaller narrower coticule hone for the same price that you will pay for the synthetic hone.
Having said all this, I prefer natural stones to synthetics. I think they are more flexible, give great feed back and are just more satisfying to use and own. That is my heart speaking, but my head tells me that the synthetics are clinically accurate even if they are a bit boring.
Sorry if that doesn't help at all, but really , just flip a coin.
+1
Really well put.
Im finding my self feeling the same way. There is just somthing about using a natural stone a?
+B
for new people nortn 4/8k is the best ultimate option. you can learn ,shave off it and set bevel etc etc. after using it norton for a year then you can go to fancy expensive hones. Gl.
I think Naniwa superstones will do exact job too but they don't come in combination you have to buy each grit separately.GL
I think Naniwa superstones will do exact job too but they don't come in combination you have to buy each grit separately.GL
I'm still a noob, and I agree with this statement. I love my Norton 4k/8k. I don't set bevels with it (ebay specials need extra TLC), but it does most of the heavy lifting in the honing department.
I especially like the fact that it doesn't require a slurry to do heavy honing work. As a noob, I didn't want to have to deal with that. I think getting using a slurry to vary the aggressiveness of a hone is another skill level above just using multiple grits.
Just to pick a nit ... because I am obsessive about accuracy, Naniwa superstones are available in combinations, here. Just scroll down to the bottom of the page.
Id have to disagree with you here mate, and i guess bart as well.
I think you can definitly get a better shave of the coti copaired with the 8k. The scratch pater is finner, but cotis are a natural stone so they do vary from stone to stone, which is, as i said originally, why i would recomend the Norton ie more consistant.
I mean i got a super shave of my coti the other day, and took it to my chinese 12k just to see if i could squeeze a bit more comfort out of it. And yes it was better, but i would happily lend a razor to a newbie which had come of my coti, its just that we are all seeking perfection a?
+B
I also recomend norton 4k/8k it is more consistant and a good all round hone and you can shave of the 8k i always add bbw slurry then coticule water and the shave is much smoother. 4k /8k sharpness bbw coti smoothness. I have a strong beard coticule with slurry then water is not keen enough for my beard . Why because the coticule has a limit and levels of a certain keeness if i go back to 4k 8k then bbw/coti no problem shaving thats just me. I have ch12k /thuringian / 12k naniwa i try them all like you i'm looking for perfection.
Norton 8K is only 1,500 ANSI or American grit and = to 3 microns . Best to use micron rating instead of grit . Chinese 12K is 1.2 micron .
cityjim
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