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Beginning to try first restore ...

I picked up a couple brushes from eBay and I'm beginning to work on restoring them. Other than drilling, are there any tricks to getting the old knots out? Also, I don't have a drill, but I've been meaning to get a dremel. Would a dremel with a proper bit suffice for drilling out these knots?

And in case folks are interested and as no B&B thread is complete without pictures, he's what I'm working on. I'm starting with the Baja and the Fuller. If those go well, I will eventually try the Simpson's AS2M when I feel comfortable with the restoration process.
 
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Dremel has worked for me. You have a great selection of handles to restore there! The lucite can be a challenge from threads I've seen. Looking forward to the restorations!
 
First off, nice handles. To start with cut off as much of the old hair as possible.
Scissors, knife whatever works best for you. The Dremel is good for drilling and the drum sander is great for finishing off the inside. Tip: when using the drum sander start it inside the knot hole. If you accidentally touch the side going in it could catch, spin out and mar the handle. A lot of times when you drill a few holes in the knot it just starts breaking up and is easily removed. Take your time is the most important thing to remember and you're gonna have fun
 
Brian:

Don't forget to put several layers of Duck Tape on the top of the brush to prevent any mishaps when you are removing the old knot. Dremels sometimes walk around a bit which could damage your great looking handles.

Don

(P.S. Thanks to my brother and sister brush restorers for the tip listed above. It has saved me lots of grief and scratches.)
 
When I was taking out the knot on my Lucite handle I nicked the black, so just touched it up with black oil based paint Canadian version of Rustoleum, you can't even notice the spot. I used mirco mesh pads to remove scratches on the handle and used brasso for a final polish, it looks like new.
 
Thanks for all the tips. I picked up a Dremel last night and started work on the Fuller and the Baja. It's coming a bit slower than I expected, but it's sill progressing just fine and it's probably just me going slow. And thanks, especially, to Trenton for the note about being able to touch up the paint. How did you know I was going to need that? :blushing: I really was being very careful too.
 
I would be hesitant to use duct tape, I use masking tape instead. I hate the sticky residue that duct tape leaves behind.

And welcome to this addiction Brian, it's a lot of fun. :thumbup:
 
Thanks, George. Masking tape is on the list.

Couple more questions for y'all ...

I'm going to be ordering some knots for these and trying to figure out whether I like the TGN Finest or Silvertip better so that I'll know what I want in that Simpson's. The Baja (clear one) has an opening of just a hair under 20mm. I assume that means I want an 18mm knot, right? Likewise, the Fuller (the brownish-reddish one), has an opening of just a hair under 22mm. So, a 20mm knot would probably be what I want, right? I actually prefer smaller knots. So, smaller is better for me anyways. And I plan to set them relatively low as I don't like floppy knots. So, I'm guessing going a little smaller on both is what I want, right?

Also, when a place like TGN mentions that a particular knot has a loft of 60mm (or whatever the number may be), does anybody know how that is being measured? Is it from the bottom or the top of the plug to the top of the bristles?
 
Thanks, George. Masking tape is on the list.

Couple more questions for y'all ...

I'm going to be ordering some knots for these and trying to figure out whether I like the TGN Finest or Silvertip better so that I'll know what I want in that Simpson's. The Baja (clear one) has an opening of just a hair under 20mm. I assume that means I want an 18mm knot, right?

Likewise, the Fuller (the brownish-reddish one), has an opening of just a hair under 22mm. So, a 20mm knot would probably be what I want, right? I actually prefer smaller knots. So, smaller is better for me anyways. And I plan to set them relatively low as I don't like floppy knots. So, I'm guessing going a little smaller on both is what I want, right?

Also, when a place like TGN mentions that a particular knot has a loft of 60mm (or whatever the number may be), does anybody know how that is being measured? Is it from the bottom or the top of the plug to the top of the bristles?

Yes and yes re the smaller knots.
And the loft is measured from the bottom of the plug to the top of the bristles. At least that's been the case on the knots I have ordered.
 
Thanks! I've got some knots on order and they should be here in a few days. In the meantime, I've wondered how to ensure that the bottom of the hole is relatively level so that when I glue the new knot into place, it doesn't end up tilting one direction or the other. As I'm using a bit smaller than the overall diameter of the hole, I can't just go straight down. Are there any tricks for ensuring a level platform upon which I'll glue the new knot?
 
If you use a liquid epoxy to first fill the handle, it will self level because it is liquid. But I don't think it is really important, because the plug itself may not be perfectly straight, either. What is important is that when you set the knot, the pressure of the hairs bulging out at the opening of the handle will hold it in whatever position you need to set it.
 
When I'm using a dremel to grind out old glue I wear a mask and do it outside if possible. The dust is nasty stuff and I don't want to breath it.
 
If you use a liquid epoxy to first fill the handle, it will self level because it is liquid. But I don't think it is really important, because the plug itself may not be perfectly straight, either. What is important is that when you set the knot, the pressure of the hairs bulging out at the opening of the handle will hold it in whatever position you need to set it.

Great. That was kind of my assumption, but I wasn't sure and wanted to check. I'm looking forward to getting the knots.
 
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