BBS, WTG only?

[Kilunaji]

Snooping around on the internet, the same advice keeps coming back to me - as a black man with nappy hair - NOT to shave against the grain, otherwise the usual problems of ingrown hairs and razor bumps flare up.

I ignored that advice, in pursuit of the most excellent shave, but the forewarned consequences manifested themselves anyway.

I use a straight-razor. I could try shaving across the grain, but is that even possible under the jaw-line?

That leaves me with the option of shaving with the grain only. The quality of my shaves has suffered, but I know my razor isn't the sharpest. I sent it out to get sharpened professionally, but I could still see moustache hairs getting bent upwards as I tried to shave them against the grain (meaning, the razor could certainly be sharper).

I'm very much ruling out ATG as a suitable technique for me, so I'm wondering if WTG should suffice to get the closest possible shaves, perhaps through improved technique or sharpened razor. I would love to hear your thoughts on that.

 

[dmshaver]

I don't use a straight razor so I'm unable to address your question. I think you'll get good advice from our members. This is a group of good people helping each other enjoy our shaves. You may consider putting this question in the Straight Razor section of B & B for more answers to your question. Good luck & enjoy your shaves!

 

[alex1921]

I cant get BBS WTG only. Not with a SR, not with a DE loaded with Feather blades.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Welcome. Couple thoughts. One, a sharp blade makes a huge difference. My skin doesn't tolerate more than two passes unless the edge is really dialed in. Two, have you tried doing a second WTG pass? It won't be BBS but it will be closer.

XTG is possible on the neck, but it's much easier for me with a smaller razor. 4/8 is great for this. Although for me, right to left on my neck is actually closer to ATG than south to north is. I pretty much don't chase BBS below the jaw because it's not worth the potential irritation.

What kind of razor are you using?

Another thought. Argan oil as a post shave was a game changer for me. I rarely get ingrowns or breakouts any more and I used to get them all the time.

 

[Ravenonrock]

I get close irritation free SR shaves with 2 WTG passes. They are not BBS, just my preference. I don’t enjoy shaving ATG with a SR or DE. I hone my SR’s and keep them as sharp as I can. I know I can get closer shaves ATG (been there done that) I just prefer not too.

 

[stone and strop]

I think that with and across should get you pretty happy.
You need a good edge for comfort and closeness. Having to go over the same spot to get a closer shave just leads to irritation.

 

[Wid]

I never strive for BBS, I only look for a good shave and most times I only do a couple of WTG passes.

 

[2bit_collie]

A few thoughts
Everyone’s face is different, but I find XTG improves over WTG without the punishment of ATG. I use a combo Gillette slide/ scything motion to go sideways on the neck with the toe of the razor. In particular I take care of just below the jawline by pulling the skin up and doing an ear to chin XTG.

I do do ATG but rarely on my upper lip. The hair there is thicker/harder/tougher thananywhere else and ATG often leaves the skin beat up.

 

[rbscebu]

@Kilunaji your first priority should be to get a DE razor type sharp edge on your SR. For an outlay of about USD 50, you can do this with diamond pasted balsa strops. For this to work, you must start off with a good shave-ready edge that has been honed without tape. Diamond pasted balsa strops do not make a bad or mediocre edge shave-ready. They only make a good shave-ready edge even better.

A proper shave-ready SR edge with good technique (that takes time to develop) used WTG and one or two XTG passes should then give you a DFS+ result without ingrowns or skin irritation. Once you have achieved that level of SR shaving, you may then like to try an ATG on the upper lip (fool's pass).

I do a fool's pass with every shave, just to ensure that the edge is at its best.

 

[Mitzie]

In the hey-day of SR shaving before the invention of the 'double edged razor blade,' most shavers only did a single WTG pass

 

[thombrogan]

most shavers only did a single WTG pass

Very unlikely to be the BBS sought by @Kilunaji , but definitely en effective defense against looking scruffy.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

As an aside, I was discussing this with Mrs. Scandalous. Her first husband was African American and struggled with folliculitis too. She said that occasional facial spa treatments (like every two or three months) to open up the pores made a much bigger difference than shave technique.

I believe he's solved the problem permanently now by growing a chest-length beard.

 

[steveclarkus]

Snooping around on the internet, the same advice keeps coming back to me - as a black man with nappy hair - NOT to shave against the grain, otherwise the usual problems of ingrown hairs and razor bumps flare up.

I ignored that advice, in pursuit of the most excellent shave, but the forewarned consequences manifested themselves anyway.

I use a straight-razor. I could try shaving across the grain, but is that even possible under the jaw-line?

That leaves me with the option of shaving with the grain only. The quality of my shaves has suffered, but I know my razor isn't the sharpest. I sent it out to get sharpened professionally, but I could still see moustache hairs getting bent upwards as I tried to shave them against the grain (meaning, the razor could certainly be sharper).

I'm very much ruling out ATG as a suitable technique for me, so I'm wondering if WTG should suffice to get the closest possible shaves, perhaps through improved technique or sharpened razor. I would love to hear your thoughts on that.

I can get a better shave WTG with a shavette than a traditional straight razor but the straight does an easily passable shave WTG. Maybe putting some arcs in your WTG would help.

 

[Old Hippie]

Going WTG only will take off some hair. I shave my head with barber straights. I find ATG possible, but I've also found that removing as much of the "easy" hair as possible before going ATG leads to a less irritated outcome. I do two WTG passes, then ATG. That works so well with barber straights that I also do it with safety razors.

Old instructions for the Gem Jr. Bar lather catcher indicated that it should only be used WTG, with a second WTG pass if the first one wasn't sufficient.

What you'll end up with is hairs cut off at an angle, so it won't maybe feel all that close but you will have removed a fair bit of the mass of hair and what's left will be softer to the hand.

Makes me think. Once I get the reno done on the Lather Pit so I can wet-shave again, I'll slick up a barber straight and try just doing two WTG passes. If it doesn't please me that's easy to fix. I don't normally "need" two WTG passes, but the second one usually hits any spots I missed the first time. I keep doing it because it makes ATG a lot easier and more comfortable.

On the other hand, if it's faster than my current routine I could see myself just going zip! every day instead of every other day. Note taken.

Best advice, I guess, is to try it on and see how it wears.

O.H.

 

[PintoPlain]

It might be a silly question, but do you stretch the skin while using your straight? In my experience stretching the skin usually leads to a closer shave.

I typically do a two pass shave WTG and XTG and don't chase BBS.

 

[Kilunaji]

As an aside, I was discussing this with Mrs. Scandalous. Her first husband was African American and struggled with folliculitis too. She said that occasional facial spa treatments (like every two or three months) to open up the pores made a much bigger difference than shave technique.

I believe he's solved the problem permanently now by growing a chest-length beard.

I tried my best to grow afros and beards, but my Kimbundu roots afford me nothing more than pubescent hair.

 

[Kilunaji]

Welcome. Couple thoughts. One, a sharp blade makes a huge difference. My skin doesn't tolerate more than two passes unless the edge is really dialed in. Two, have you tried doing a second WTG pass? It won't be BBS but it will be closer.

XTG is possible on the neck, but it's much easier for me with a smaller razor. 4/8 is great for this. Although for me, right to left on my neck is actually closer to ATG than south to north is. I pretty much don't chase BBS below the jaw because it's not worth the potential irritation.

What kind of razor are you using?

Another thought. Argan oil as a post shave was a game changer for me. I rarely get ingrowns or breakouts any more and I used to get them all the time.

This is my razor

Böker Manufaktur Classic Black Round Head - 109 Fr.

I have little reason to believe the razor itself is not up to scratch (not that you were insinuating that), but I think it could be sharpenned better, so I'm considering learning to do it myself.

I have tried a second WTG, it's definitely not as good as my WTG+ATG, but it is also certain that my technique still requires lots of improvement. Still, as recommended by rbscebu, I'll first get the blade sharpened properly, then continue to work on my technique with one WTG, then reocnsider a second WTG some time later.

I never strive for BBS, I only look for a good shave and most times I only do a couple of WTG passes.

Ultimately, I would like to master this art of shaving.

@Kilunaji your first priority should be to get a DE razor type sharp edge on your SR. For an outlay of about USD 50, you can do this with diamond pasted balsa strops. For this to work, you must start off with a good shave-ready edge that has been honed without tape. Diamond pasted balsa strops do not make a bad or mediocre edge shave-ready. They only make a good shave-ready edge even better.

A proper shave-ready SR edge with good technique (that takes time to develop) used WTG and one or two XTG passes should then give you a DFS+ result without ingrowns or skin irritation. Once you have achieved that level of SR shaving, you may then like to try an ATG on the upper lip (fool's pass).

I do a fool's pass with every shave, just to ensure that the edge is at its best.

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to look for one. I'm also strongly considering honing my own blade.

So what are my options if I want BBS?

I can get a better shave WTG with a shavette than a traditional straight razor but the straight does an easily passable shave WTG. Maybe putting some arcs in your WTG would help.

Arcs?

It might be a silly question, but do you stretch the skin while using your straight? In my experience stretching the skin usually leads to a closer shave.

I typically do a two pass shave WTG and XTG and don't chase BBS.

Not silly. I am still figuring out the best ways to stretch the skin.

 

[global_dev]

I’d suggest consider using a single edge razor with the feather or kai blades and get your wtg/xtg stroke game together. If you like it, then i’d work in learning to hone the straight.

 

[thombrogan]

@Tomo — you recently mentioned improved results from doing a second, steeper pass without skin stretching on the second pass. Would you please share which direction the pass went and the results? If I’m misrepresenting your find, will you please correct me?

 

[Tomo]

@Tomo — you recently mentioned improved results from doing a second, steeper pass without skin stretching on the second pass. Would you please share which direction the pass went and the results? If I’m misrepresenting your find, will you please correct me?

Correct. I do this under the jaw WTG no stretching. Also under the ears behind the jaw ATG with stretching. Angle is about 30 degrees.

This technique gets a lot closer in these areas.