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At the end of the world. Shoot me

Hey, sorry for the pessimistic topic title but that's just how I roll. Tut mir leid, which is excuse me in German, for my bad English as well. I am Dutch. But now I've taught maybe one or two people to say excuse me in German, I think I am excused!

But let's get on topic, so I use a NTS Solingen razor, I also got a Spartacus Thiers Issard (vintage) razor.

Soap I use Mitchel's fat wool, I also use Jermyn street aftershave, a cheap 9 dollar brush. Mind you I have a semonugue (or how are they called) one of they're best boar haired ones but I never used it!

So with both open razor I have the NTS solingen and the Spartacus, I am having one problem. Sideburns=Perfect, but it goes wrong, crazily wrong when I have to go for my moustache, in that area the blade sometimes pulls and I cut myself while trying to find the right angle. I really do not know what to do I knew I had problems with my safety razor in the beginning, but this sorted itself out. I've mastered the safety razor right now atm.

Yet the open razor is really hard beard area and moustache area always goes wrong, it starts failing me and hurting me. I get razor burns and a lot of blood. It's no small cuts either.
 
How long have you been shaving with a straight and how much research into it have you done? As in have you watched lots of videos on technique and read all you can on it? These things although will not in themselves teach you to shave will help you get a basic understanding of the theory.

The most important point is to stretch your skin in the opposite direction whenever you can and use a very shallow angle (about one spine widths from your face but max 2). Under the nose moustache area is the trickiest but again, watching some good shave videos will give you some good tips. Other than that, lots of practice and a VERY light touch. Who honed your razors? Where did you buy them from? That may influence how sharp they are and ultimately your end results.

Also, no need to excuse your English. It is quite good, as it is for most Dutch people!
 
How long have you been shaving with a straight and how much research into it have you done? As in have you watched lots of videos on technique and read all you can on it? These things although will not in themselves teach you to shave will help you get a basic understanding of the theory.

The most important point is to stretch your skin in the opposite direction whenever you can and use a very shallow angle (about one spine widths from your face but max 2). Under the nose moustache area is the trickiest but again, watching some good shave videos will give you some good tips. Other than that, lots of practice and a VERY light touch. Who honed your razors? Where did you buy them from? That may influence how sharp they are and ultimately your end results.

Also, no need to excuse your English. It is quite good, as it is for most Dutch people!


How long? I guess I bought a straight a year ago, but I failed even harder then I do now. So I quit it, now I wanted to try it again! They are ordered from a old style Barber. He says he does hone his razors on a 8k grit stone. Acording to him you do not need other grids, so he uses a 8k grit stone only. He also strops them.

I am actually going to him on the eleventh and he will teach me how to hone.

I did watch videos, but they do it so easy, while I struggle. I of course streth my moustache area with my mouth, but it remains hard....
 
Well, there is a learning curve to be sure. As to shaving off an 8K stone. It definitely can be done. Many use the trick of using lather on the last few set of passes to give it that extra bit of keenness. I wonder if your barber friend does the same...

Just take it slow, step by step. It is often recommended to only do the cheeks first, N to S. Get comfortable with that after a few times before doing the moustache area which is the most challenging. Might be better to slow things down a bit, get the hang of the angle doing the sides of your face and maybe even your neck (just N to S) for now. Finish up with a DE if you have to. Eventually it gets much, much easier. Guaranteed. They say it takes about 100 shaves till you are fully comfortable using a straight. I'm at about 60 I would say and I get great shaves and never cut myself anymore unless I experiment with different approaches or angles, but even so the cuts are so minor that they stop bleeding by the time I wash the lather off. You just get better at it after a while but it will take a while. It's worth persisting.
 
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