Another newbie 1st shavette shave

[EB Newfarm]

Had a pretty good shave tonight. I have been using the SR for every shave since late June, lost track of the number, but somewhere around 25. I have not posted anything unless it seemed different in some way. Most shaves have been OK, I am getting more comfortable, and feel like baby steps are happening. I have been using my Dovo Bismark and trying to focus on good stropping technique. I bought the Dovo at Griffith Shaving Goods, and asked for it to be honed before they sent it to me and they did me right. My first shave with it showed me what shave-ready meant, and that my other razors were most definitely not.
I bought some lapping film, and followed the advice given here and have been reading up on Slash's method. If you see this Slash, thanks for all of the time you put in here to help. Actually, everyone here has been super helpful. I would have given up without the support.
Back to lapping film. I do baby steps there as well. Read up on everything first. On my first try with the film, I was really happy to turn a GD into something that I can actually shave with! It was not hard at all! I had paid to have it honed, sent it back for round two, and it still seemed worthless. Then I used the film, and boom, it worked great! I got a piece of basla, and now I am going to take my time and try to figure that out too.

 

[GearNoir]

Had a pretty good shave tonight. I have been using the SR for every shave since late June, lost track of the number, but somewhere around 25. I have not posted anything unless it seemed different in some way. Most shaves have been OK, I am getting more comfortable, and feel like baby steps are happening. I have been using my Dovo Bismark and trying to focus on good stropping technique. I bought the Dovo at Griffith Shaving Goods, and asked for it to be honed before they sent it to me and they did me right. My first shave with it showed me what shave-ready meant, and that my other razors were most definitely not.
I bought some lapping film, and followed the advice given here and have been reading up on Slash's method. If you see this Slash, thanks for all of the time you put in here to help. Actually, everyone here has been super helpful. I would have given up without the support.
Back to lapping film. I do baby steps there as well. Read up on everything first. On my first try with the film, I was really happy to turn a GD into something that I can actually shave with! It was not hard at all! I had paid to have it honed, sent it back for round two, and it still seemed worthless. Then I used the film, and boom, it worked great! I got a piece of basla, and now I am going to take my time and try to figure that out too.

Sounds like your just about set to do the next GD Competition!

 

[Slash McCoy]

Had a pretty good shave tonight. I have been using the SR for every shave since late June, lost track of the number, but somewhere around 25. I have not posted anything unless it seemed different in some way. Most shaves have been OK, I am getting more comfortable, and feel like baby steps are happening. I have been using my Dovo Bismark and trying to focus on good stropping technique. I bought the Dovo at Griffith Shaving Goods, and asked for it to be honed before they sent it to me and they did me right. My first shave with it showed me what shave-ready meant, and that my other razors were most definitely not.
I bought some lapping film, and followed the advice given here and have been reading up on Slash's method. If you see this Slash, thanks for all of the time you put in here to help. Actually, everyone here has been super helpful. I would have given up without the support.
Back to lapping film. I do baby steps there as well. Read up on everything first. On my first try with the film, I was really happy to turn a GD into something that I can actually shave with! It was not hard at all! I had paid to have it honed, sent it back for round two, and it still seemed worthless. Then I used the film, and boom, it worked great! I got a piece of basla, and now I am going to take my time and try to figure that out too.

Thanks for the kind words, but it isn't really "my" method. It is just The Method. The lapping film part I was inspired by Seraphim to try, along with some others here. A bunch of us shared ideas and tips with each other and contributed to Blix's lapping film thread. The bevel setting with the burr method was not my idea either. There have been guys doing it that way for quite some time. All I did was defend the practice against those who considered it blasphemy. Then there is the pasted balsa. Not my idea, either. All I really did in developing The Method was experiment and refine the balsa and diamond bit somewhat, and present it to the board. So my contribution was actually rather small.

I like the Bismarck style razors, too. They handle very intuitively and ergonomically. And when you get around to running the diamond on balsa progression on it, you will really love yours. Not to put down a well honed GD, but the Bismarck or any other razor with a finer grind will up your game a good bit, off the balsa.

Glad things are coming together so well for you. It just keeps getting better, too.

 

[Dzaw]

Thanks for the kind words, but it isn't really "my" method. It is just The Method. The lapping film part I was inspired by Seraphim to try, along with some others here. A bunch of us shared ideas and tips with each other and contributed to Blix's lapping film thread. The bevel setting with the burr method was not my idea either. There have been guys doing it that way for quite some time. All I did was defend the practice against those who considered it blasphemy. Then there is the pasted balsa. Not my idea, either. All I really did in developing The Method was experiment and refine the balsa and diamond bit somewhat, and present it to the board. So my contribution was actually rather small.

I like the Bismarck style razors, too. They handle very intuitively and ergonomically. And when you get around to running the diamond on balsa progression on it, you will really love yours. Not to put down a well honed GD, but the Bismarck or any other razor with a finer grind will up your game a good bit, off the balsa.

Glad things are coming together so well for you. It just keeps getting better, too.

I can't agree with your analysis Slash.

I've seen each and every piece of "the method" in different contexts. Lapping film, ultrafine abrasive pastes and compounds, and even balsa strops.

I've not seen it packaged together in one cohesive system. Not for knives, not for mirrors, not for stones, and certainly not for razors (my newest, but certainly not only obsession). I've met and rubbed elbows with some of the best bladesmiths and edged implement experts in the world. While I certainly don't consider myself to be on their level, I've seen a lot of sharpening and honing demonstrations and discussions.

Never have I seen "the method" put together in one unified system. Until you.

Better or worse, you put these pieces together, and this gets to be your method man. <giggle>

I vote we officially label it "The Slash Method"

 

[Slash McCoy]

I must insist that it not be named after me. It is just The Method, thanks. When you link it with one particular person things get personal and some folks won't just accept The Method for what it is.

 

[Dzaw]

I must insist that it not be named after me. It is just The Method, thanks. When you link it with one particular person things get personal and some folks won't just accept The Method for what it is.

That's cool - It was half tongue in cheek, just to bust your chops a bit, and half letting you know that your efforts are appreciated. You're probably right about things getting personal. Interpersonal politics has ruined many a great hobby.

 

[Slash McCoy]

It's The People's Method.

 

[EB Newfarm]

I accept the "People's Method." Just sayin that your posts have been very helpful Slash.

 

[Slash McCoy]

I accept the "People's Method." Just sayin that your posts have been very helpful Slash.

Thanks. Just giving back to a great forum that helped me out a lot. I suffered through many years of excruciating shaves before finding this board. The learning curve before B&B was long and rocky. No books, no internet, no mentor, just me, a prickly boar brush, crackly old strop, and a couple of very wonky twisty Dovo Bests and a gigantic glassy Arkansas that was probably the world's slowest stone in its day. Even my DE shaving (that is what I learned to shave with as a teenager... that's what we HAD back then) had lots of room for improvement, though I didn't realize it at the time. Took many years to learn to get even a mediocre straight shave, and then I found and embraced the badger. If I can help a few other lost souls to find their way to shave redemption, it is only right that I do so.

 

[EB Newfarm]

In my mid 30s as far as SR shaves go. Tonight I was using my favorite, the Dovo Bismark and had a great shave. It was really close. Did not even bother with a touch-up from a DE. The factor that helped a lot was using a sample of Bon Vivant soap from Declaration. The slickness was great. I might have learned a bit about pushing the thirstiness of these artisan soaps. I had set this aside a few months ago, and took it out tonight just for a change. I was originally so-so about the scent, but tonight it was perfect! Great post shave feel as well. I know this is SR discussion, but I think the soap made a difference. I just ordered a tub.
I have not posted much lately because there has been no real news. The shaves have been pretty good, my confidence has improved, and things are going well as I work on technique, stropping and honing on some GDs.
I'm sticking with it!

 

[GearNoir]

In my mid 30s as far as SR shaves go. Tonight I was using my favorite, the Dovo Bismark and had a great shave. It was really close. Did not even bother with a touch-up from a DE. The factor that helped a lot was using a sample of Bon Vivant soap from Declaration. The slickness was great. I might have learned a bit about pushing the thirstiness of these artisan soaps. I had set this aside a few months ago, and took it out tonight just for a change. I was originally so-so about the scent, but tonight it was perfect! Great post shave feel as well. I know this is SR discussion, but I think the soap made a difference. I just ordered a tub.
I have not posted much lately because there has been no real news. The shaves have been pretty good, my confidence has improved, and things are going well as I work on technique, stropping and honing on some GDs.
I'm sticking with it!

Excellent! Sounds like the journey is going well.

Do give yourself some credit, the soap does help a bit, but it’s more so your refining technique!

 

[EB Newfarm]

So I'm into my 40th or so shaves and things have been going well. I am getting better at honing my Gold Dollars, but using my better razors most of the time. I even splurged recently and bought a vintage beauty. I am far more relaxed about it and often do a one pass with some clean-ups. I have to admit, I do not try to get super close, I just like to do the shaves without any cuts or weepers. So far, in total, I have only had two small nicks, and a handful of 1 cm weepers. Afterwards, I sometimes think I should have tried harder to shave closer. There are angles and areas of my face that are hard, and I do not push it. I go cautiously and if it does not feel right, I stop. I can be satisfied with just an OK shave. I chalk it up to building muscle memory and tell my self it is baby steps. Still, I think I need to push myself a bit more, that I have been too cautious.
The other night I took the Karve for a spin on my face, and it felt like child's play to go BBS. I still shave my head with a DE and my face with a straight. I am committed to the straight, but it was nice to have a perfect DE shave. Not sure if I will ever try my head with the straights.

 

[Jonas]

Loved that write up Slash, your desire for old school shaving must of been strong if you were basically self taught & getting mediocre shaves all those years ago yet stuck it out anyway. As much as I hate to admit if it was me theres no way I could of stuck it out, I take my hat off to you sir.

 

[Twelvefret]

I think we all take the great suggestions and develop our own method. I've not been able to find a reasonable size balsa board, but it hasn't kept me building an edge and using it to shave. Later I hope to narrow down some synthetic stones because I suspect the lapping films are not going to last forever.

As others have noted, while the suggestions are most appreciated, it can be overwhelming. I know I felt that way a couple of weeks back. Once I got the lapping film, marble tile, and two strops, I feel I have a method that works for me. @steveclarkus held my hand and I appreciate him as a friend and mentor very much. @Gamma has also been an encouraging voice.

 

[Slash McCoy]

I think we all take the great suggestions and develop our own method. I've not been able to find a reasonable size balsa board, but it hasn't kept me building an edge and using it to shave. Later I hope to narrow down some synthetic stones because I suspect the lapping films are not going to last forever.

As others have noted, while the suggestions are most appreciated, it can be overwhelming. I know I felt that way a couple of weeks back. Once I got the lapping film, marble tile, and two strops, I feel I have a method that works for me. @steveclarkus held my hand and I appreciate him as a friend and mentor very much. @Gamma has also been an encouraging voice.

Balsa Wood Sheet - 3/16" x 3" x 36" | Hobby Lobby | 402800

That wood give you three nice 12" pieces so you can do the full progression, .5u, .25u, and .1u. If you leave the protective paper on the top of the acrylic, you can glue the balsa to it with gorilla white wood glue. Don't use regular gorilla glue, it expands as it cures. Flip it balsa side down on your workbench and weight it with something for clamping pressure overnight and it is ready for lapping the next day. Most of the hobby shops have balsa in different dimensions. Anything between 1/8" and 1" thick will work, 3" wide. I like 1/4" thick myself, on 3/4" thick acrylic. It just fits right in the hand and I don't have to be scared of slicing off my fingertips. For some reason the Hobby Lobby site doesn't show 1/4" x 3" x 36" but I have walked in and walked out with it. They have other woods you can use for scales and stuff, too. I scored a nice sheet of walnut and another of maple a few months ago.

As for synthetic stones, a set of Naniwa SuperStones or whatever moniker they go by now, is pretty easy to use, and consistent as stones go. Reasonably big, too. Not cheap, but they won't break the bank, either. You might prefer the Chosera for the 1k bevel setter, though. I don't have one but everyone who does, loves it. Since the 1u film will get the most use, and therefore the 12k grit range stone will too, maybe just start with getting the 12k for finishing and touchups. Remember you will need to lap these stones periodically. If you like the 12k stone, maybe fill out the progression with 3k and 8k.

If the stones are well lapped, results will be similar to a film edge. So maybe you might want instead to have something different, like a coticule or a Jnat. These can take a while to learn but the edge is of a completely different character. I might do a pass around some day with my one Jnat and naguras. I seldom use it but don't really want to sell it just now. There is usually not much in the way of instant gratification from slurried naturals when you first pick one up. The learning is more of a process. The Naniwa setup would be a fairly simple transition from film IF you lap them well and keep them lapped well.

For myself, I find that a piece of film is good for about a dozen razors. Some guys use them a lot longer. At three pieces from a sheet, that is 36 razors as a conservative estimate. You will do probably 10 touchups for every razor you hone from the bevel up. So midrange grits won't get used up very quickly. The 1u grit is the one you will always find yourself restocking. I haven't had to buy any for some time but last time I ordered I think I used www.nanolaptech.com.

There is one problem with balsa I don't think anyone has mentioned. It is such a game changer that it will spoil you once you get your technique nailed.

 

[Twelvefret]

Balsa Wood Sheet - 3/16" x 3" x 36" | Hobby Lobby | 402800

That wood give you three nice 12" pieces so you can do the full progression, .5u, .25u, and .1u. If you leave the protective paper on the top of the acrylic, you can glue the balsa to it with gorilla white wood glue. Don't use regular gorilla glue, it expands as it cures. Flip it balsa side down on your workbench and weight it with something for clamping pressure overnight and it is ready for lapping the next day. Most of the hobby shops have balsa in different dimensions. Anything between 1/8" and 1" thick will work, 3" wide. I like 1/4" thick myself, on 3/4" thick acrylic. It just fits right in the hand and I don't have to be scared of slicing off my fingertips. For some reason the Hobby Lobby site doesn't show 1/4" x 3" x 36" but I have walked in and walked out with it. They have other woods you can use for scales and stuff, too. I scored a nice sheet of walnut and another of maple a few months ago.

As for synthetic stones, a set of Naniwa SuperStones or whatever moniker they go by now, is pretty easy to use, and consistent as stones go. Reasonably big, too. Not cheap, but they won't break the bank, either. You might prefer the Chosera for the 1k bevel setter, though. I don't have one but everyone who does, loves it. Since the 1u film will get the most use, and therefore the 12k grit range stone will too, maybe just start with getting the 12k for finishing and touchups. Remember you will need to lap these stones periodically. If you like the 12k stone, maybe fill out the progression with 3k and 8k.

If the stones are well lapped, results will be similar to a film edge. So maybe you might want instead to have something different, like a coticule or a Jnat. These can take a while to learn but the edge is of a completely different character. I might do a pass around some day with my one Jnat and naguras. I seldom use it but don't really want to sell it just now. There is usually not much in the way of instant gratification from slurried naturals when you first pick one up. The learning is more of a process. The Naniwa setup would be a fairly simple transition from film IF you lap them well and keep them lapped well.

For myself, I find that a piece of film is good for about a dozen razors. Some guys use them a lot longer. At three pieces from a sheet, that is 36 razors as a conservative estimate. You will do probably 10 touchups for every razor you hone from the bevel up. So midrange grits won't get used up very quickly. The 1u grit is the one you will always find yourself restocking. I haven't had to buy any for some time but last time I ordered I think I used www.nanolaptech.com.

There is one problem with balsa I don't think anyone has mentioned. It is such a game changer that it will spoil you once you get your technique nailed.

Yes, I went by their last week. I felt the thickness may not suffice. I meant to ask if anyone used bass wood to form a laminate.

All good and useful information. Thank you.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Yes, I went by their last week. I felt the thickness may not suffice. I meant to ask if anyone used bass wood to form a laminate.

All good and useful information. Thank you.

You mean using basswood as a backing plate for the balsa? I would discourage use of any wood for this. The reason you want to mount the balsa on a plate is to prevent swelling and warping, which would have a negative effect on the results. This is why stone, glass, and now acrylic are commonly used. They do not soak up moisture from the air and are fairly stable, dimensionally. Wood will warp, eventually. Marine grade plywood coated with a non air inhibited fiberglass resin or gelcoat might be okay, but I don't have time to try all that. The plate doesn't even have to be all that flat, as long as it is dimensionally stable. Just glue the balsa to it securely, and when it is dry, lap the balsa on a sheet of wet/dry (use it dry) carefully glued to a surface that IS flat, and walah. Your balsa is as flat and as smooth as such an open grained wood can get, and ready for the diamond paste. And it won't warp appreciably. It will only go out of flat and true after considerable use and wear, at which point you relap. A few months, maybe. Every time you refresh the diamond, if you are anal about it. I go 2 or 3 refreshes before I relap. it loads up the sandpaper quickly and can take two sheets, probably depending on the formulation of the paste. Spray or slurry might be better on the sandpaper but application of paste is already a known factor and I don't like to mess with proven methods once they are proven.

BTW I get my acrylic from TAP Plastics. There was an ebay vendor named bhent but not sure if he is still around... there might be others, but TAP has very reasonable prices. If you order it plain cut, chamfer the edges slightly with some 320 grit before using it for film. Balsa, doesn't matter.

If you mean using basswood for the stropping surface, I have tried that, and white pine too, and they don't seem to work as well as balsa. YMMV. But balsa is a proven medium so is to be preferred, starting out, anyway. Eliminate variables and unknowns, for the shortest path to best possible results. Freestyle and experiment later.

 

[Twelvefret]

You mean using basswood as a backing plate for the balsa? I would discourage use of any wood for this. The reason you want to mount the balsa on a plate is to prevent swelling and warping, which would have a negative effect on the results. This is why stone, glass, and now acrylic are commonly used. They do not soak up moisture from the air and are fairly stable, dimensionally. Wood will warp, eventually. Marine grade plywood coated with a non air inhibited fiberglass resin or gelcoat might be okay, but I don't have time to try all that. The plate doesn't even have to be all that flat, as long as it is dimensionally stable. Just glue the balsa to it securely, and when it is dry, lap the balsa on a sheet of wet/dry (use it dry) carefully glued to a surface that IS flat, and walah. Your balsa is as flat and as smooth as such an open grained wood can get, and ready for the diamond paste. And it won't warp appreciably. It will only go out of flat and true after considerable use and wear, at which point you relap. A few months, maybe. Every time you refresh the diamond, if you are anal about it. I go 2 or 3 refreshes before I relap. it loads up the sandpaper quickly and can take two sheets, probably depending on the formulation of the paste. Spray or slurry might be better on the sandpaper but application of paste is already a known factor and I don't like to mess with proven methods once they are proven.

BTW I get my acrylic from TAP Plastics. There was an ebay vendor named bhent but not sure if he is still around... there might be others, but TAP has very reasonable prices. If you order it plain cut, chamfer the edges slightly with some 320 grit before using it for film. Balsa, doesn't matter.

If you mean using basswood for the stropping surface, I have tried that, and white pine too, and they don't seem to work as well as balsa. YMMV. But balsa is a proven medium so is to be preferred, starting out, anyway. Eliminate variables and unknowns, for the shortest path to best possible results. Freestyle and experiment later.

I meant balsa to glue the balsa to as @steveclarkus explained how the Chromium Oxide embeds the balsa.

Okay, that's something I can do tomorrow. There are some materials I can source from Home Depot with which to glue the balsa. I don't have diamond spray/paste, just chromium oxide so I'll use that and get the other products later. I would just like to eventually get something more durable than the $30 packet of lapping film. Maybe it lasts longer than I think. Anyway, thank you for taking the time to explain.

Oh, when I get used razors that are supposed to be shave ready, how important is it to know if they used tape of touching up on lapping film?

 

[rudyt]

Anything between 1/8" and 1" thick will work, 3" wide. I like 1/4" thick myself, on 3/4" thick acrylic. It just fits right in the hand and I don't have to be scared of slicing off my fingertips.

Uno momento per favor (waitaminnit). Fits in your hand? I always assumed your balsa strop was strop length. What are your optimum dimensions?

 

[Slash McCoy]

I meant balsa to glue the balsa to as @steveclarkus explained how the Chromium Oxide embeds the balsa.

Okay, that's something I can do tomorrow. There are some materials I can source from Home Depot with which to glue the balsa. I don't have diamond spray/paste, just chromium oxide so I'll use that and get the other products later. I would just like to eventually get something more durable than the $30 packet of lapping film. Maybe it lasts longer than I think. Anyway, thank you for taking the time to explain.

Oh, when I get used razors that are supposed to be shave ready, how important is it to know if they used tape of touching up on lapping film?

It is a good question to ask but TBH I always forget to ask. But when retouching a razor that you received shave ready and that initially shaved good but that has gotten a bit dull through normal use, after about 40 or 50 laps on 1u film or 12k synthetic stone, if you don't see a pretty good edge that will treetop at least 1 or 2 hairs at 1/4", very likely that is what it is. You are just polishing the shoulder of the bevel and not the whole bevel out to the edge, because without tape, your spine is lower than with tape. But after you have honed a few razors you will probably, like me, almost automatically set the bevel and hone it yourself from scratch. You will prefer your own edge. So, you will barely notice the previous taped honing. If you, like me, use the burr method of setting the bevel, then when you got a burr on each side in turn, you know you have a good bevel set by you, no matter how the last guy honed it. With your bevel established, it is easy street, just progressively polish the bevel, don't use lots of pressure and make a fin edge, and bobs yer uncle.