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African-American Razor Bump Sufferer

Hello Folks,

A few quick things about me. I'm African-American, and have suffered from razor bumps, specifically in my lower jaw and neck, since I began shaving, approximately 20+ years ago. After college, I finally gave up, and switched to hair trimmers. The trimmers worked, in terms of the razor bumps, but left me with permanent stubble. After approximately ten years of hearing grumbles from co-workers regarding why I "got to violate the dress code," and friends about how I was either emulating Miami Vice, or "a rebel without a cause," I took to the Internet. To be fair, I actually prefer being clean shaven, and hated the look, myself. I ended up reading a lot about how DE safety razors would DEFINITELY work for my type of problems, and invested money on a wet shaving setup.

Specifically, I'm using a Merkur 34C with AOS shaving oil, AOS shaving cream with a Badger brush, Neutrogena Shave Balm, Witch Hazel, and Neutrogena Post Shave Lotion. As a byproduct of my previous foray into razor shaving, I cleanse and exfoliate my face, daily, and am taking care to focus on my neck now, due to the current issues. I've returned to using Black Opal Razor Bump Recovery, but hate having to use it, because the whole point was to avoid razor bumps, not recover from them. I've read the literature, I've watched the videos. My very first shave, with a Merkur blade that came with the razor, was a revelation. No nicks, no cuts, no bumps, and a smooth shave, especially compared to the Miami Vice look to which I'd become accustomed. Pretty much every shave after that has been a disaster. The razor bumps have returned, in full force, to my lower jaw and neck.

I've returned to the trimmers in order to heal fully, thinking that I simply had one bad shave, and was re-injuring it. I've purchased a blade sampler, and have gone from "mild" to "super sharp." The one thing that is consistent is that I keep on getting ugly razor bumps. Actually uglier than the ones I got when I first started shaving, with the multi-blade razors. Before you blame user error, I have done everything I can to keep my touch as light as possible. I hold the razor at the vey end, and I don't apply pressure. I've attempted to go straight north to south, due to pressure concerns, and I've followed the grain. For what it's worth, my neck hair tends to grow horizontally, and I initially thought I was applying too much pressure, trying to go horizontal. Neither method has worked. I've even attempted to go diagonally, as a happy medium. I'm honestly at my breaking point, and I'm hoping that someone here can give me some actual advice, other than "it doesn't happen to me, so you must be doing something obvious wrong," before I go back to the trimmers, and throw the $150+ setup I've purchased in the trash.

Anyway, sorry for the long post but, like I said, I'm about ready to give up.
 
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I don't have the same hair type or skin type, but I did get razor bumps every time I used a cartridge razor, and like you I used the trimmer method for years. Switched to DE ~4 months ago. I will still get razor bumps if my technique is off, or I'm using a blade that doesn't agree with my skin. Mostly these days it's blade issues alone that cause me issues, or going against the grain on the neck. I've found the blades that work for me though and have been irritation free for close to two months. I don't know if that's any help, but I wish you luck on your journey!
 
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Hi, Wannabee,

I am the wrong colour and have no skin problems but all I put on my face after my shower is shaving cream or croap or soap, usually unscented and Aqua Velva after shave. Also the occasional dab of styptic when I butcher myself.

Could all that stuff you apply to your skin be a cause of your problem?

Could a doctor - dermatologist help you?

Mickey
 
You could try going in gentler by just doing a one-pass WTG shave maybe every other day and see how that goes - have you mapped your beard growth as that's going to be very personal and unique to you? Initially my WTG and XTG passes were great, but my ATG pass really messed me up until I got the technique right.
 
I also used to get razor bumps from my DE (although less then with a cartridge). There were 3 things that really helped me

1. Practice. It took me a good 3 months to get the hang of the DE.
2. Throw out the aftershave balm and use an alcohol based splash.
3. Get an alum block.

I noticed that the balm, specifically the neutrogena seemed to contribute to the bumps.
 
Hello G1811.
Welcome aboard.
Another vote here for maybe a blade issue.
Tough to say for sure because of all things wet shaving related, blades are the most subjective.
If you're up for it and your face can take it...try a bunch of different blades.
There's the Great Blade Exchange here or Try A Blade is also a great resource.
Everybody's face is different so what works for me may not work for you...but I would urge you to maybe try a Voskhod...don't necessarily give the closest shave, but damn, they're smooth and comfortable.
Good luck.
 
Your story sounds like mine. I haven't tried alum yet but I have used everything else to combat bumps.

I'd like to try alum and report back but for now the best advice I have is to pick the right blade. Definitely some trail and error involved but the right blade/razor combo is key (a Derby in a krona tore me up, but a feather paired with a krona is what's up).
 
I'm not sure I can be too much help directly, because I haven't had issues with bumps. Just lucky I guess. I will say that there is a ton of info out there (you probably already know this). I actually got into wet shaving through a company called Bevel, which is aimed at black men. Once I realized all they were just selling a DE safety razor and a (in my mind) expensive subscription service, I just went and got a 34C, which worked great for me. Still, there is some good info on their site. Of course, I think there is better info here, but why not check out all the info you can get. Good luck!
 
Welcome aboard B&B. Hope you enjoy the ride.

There is a learning curve for us all, in traditional wet shaving, so stick with it for a while. You may have a more difficult initiation into the ways of DE, but practice and patience will pay off in better and better shaves.

Good luck.
 
I had problems with bumps and switching to DE helped but I would still get them from time to time. I tried PFB Vanish and my problem with bumps went away. As my technique improved I didn't need the PFB unless I had a rough shave. You can buy a small roll on to test it. For now avoid going against the grain and try to find the right blade for your face.

Good luck
 
Like many other posters firstly sorry to hear of your woes. I've a different skin/hair type but like some of the others have suggested I'd say:

- try not to get down on yourself. I know it sucks that you're not getting the anticipated results but once you find what works FOR YOU you'll have a lifetime of almost assured good results e.g 20yrs from now you'll have long forgotten the PITA couple of months you went through.

- probably a redundant comment but I assume you're only shaving after having showered etc - so the hair is already softened. Perhaps also try applying hot water to a washer (lil hand towel one uses in the shower - thats what we call them here in Oz) and putting on your face/neck for a few mins to further soften the hair.

- as much as a pain it might be I'd try and look at this as a logical process - e.g try and establish what works for you and what doesn't - as if you can identify this process makes things worse - and this product is really good etc - you'll come closer to getting a good combo happening.

- sounds like you've mapped your facial hair as much as possible, so try and just do single pass WTG shaves, make sure you reapply lather so you don't go over any exposed skin.

- I'm sure your technique is sound but sometimes when the results stink we start to overthink things and make it worse - so make sure you're taking your time, only shaving when you have a sufficient window to do it within. No one gets good results when rushed.

- as others have said an Alum block is well worth trying (only a few dollars from an Indian corner store)

It sounds like you're on the right path and HAVE GOTTEN good results from DE shaving (which is scientifically proven to assist in minimising razor bump etc) so its just a matter of narrowing down the one/few variables that are messing up your outcome. Sorry I can't be more help but a quick search here for similar threads shows that you're not alone in these probs so there might be some good ideas/feedback in those as well. Cheers. :)
 
How about trying a cold water shave, or perhaps one with minimal prep, so that your pores don't open up quite so much? (Warm water rinse, good slick soap covering and then one very light wtg pass.)
 
+1 on the cold water. Finish your face wash as usual and rinse with cold water. Never use warm water on your face before or during your shave. Use warm to hot water to rinse your razor to remove buildup and always run cold water over the razor to cool it down before your next pass. Also, be sure to have a sharp blade. I use Feathers and change them every second shave as my facial hairs are thick and dense, YMMV.
 
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