Abrasive buffing wheels on straights?

[WhiteRabbitAgain]

A little bit ago I acquired a pack of cheapish abrasive buffing wheel attachments for a dremel, they basically look like a puff of steelwool on a dremel bit. The intended purpose was cleaning off rust from heavier tools, and I am not sure about using them on a straight razor.
Should steel buffing wheels be avoided?
Is a buffing compound necessary or just preferred?
Is there risk of damage if used improperly?

These are the thingies. https://amzn.to/3yvoGYh

 

[Legion]

Is there risk of damage if used improperly?

Huge risk. I'd say most of us who restore razors have killed at least one with a rotary tool.

If you have to do it, keep the blade flat on a surface, and be very aware of the direction the tool is rotating.

 

[Titleist]

I would add that if you have to use a power tool, also be mindful of the amount of heat and friction being generated. You could damage the temper of the steel. I would recommend only hand sanding/buffing.

 

[taffy]

Only once I have tried it and won't use one again as I wrecked the razor.

 

[HazMat Shaver]

Ive used them. I recommend you keep moving as its very easy to mess up the face/grind of the blade. Digging in too much in one area and its over. Plus the heat and danger of using a Dremel on a blade. It can be done, but you really much watch what your doing. I use greaseless compounds on a slow speed buffer.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Yes, those abrasive wheels for a Dremel can be use, but they can easily grab an edge or corner and are dangerous for razors. Single speed Dremel’s are way too fast.

If you do use a Dremel, get a variable speed and use low speed. A flex shaft will give you a lot more control and much safer.

If you are looking to polish, hand sanding with a wine cork backer, and polishing on a bench grinder is safer than polishing a blade with a Dremel, though a bench buffer is also dangerous and used with caution.

For rust removal 3m Scotch Brite Radial Disc are a bit safer and can be used singly or ganged up to reach narrow spots like jimps and between scales with good results.

The larger Scotch Brite Radial Disc on a buffer are a bit safer and produce a better, more even finish than on a Dremel.

I know guys that can produce great finishes on Dremels, but they all admit to having Dremel’s eating razors and there is a large learning curve to even finishes.

 

[Gamma]

If you are referring to the 'Abrasive Buffs' Dremel sells - I'd say pass.
Honestly, whatever it is you are trying to do, there is probably a better and safer way of doing it that doesn't involve risking the blade or your skin. One goof where the wheel spins into the edge, and it's good night Irene. It's easy to make that mistake, easier than you think.

If you post an image of the task at hand, you'll prob get good feedback on fixing whatever it is.
Dremels are high speed low torque, but enough torque to shatter a blade if the tool catches and you can find hundreds of posts where someone 'thought' they knew what they were doing but wound up ripping a chunk of steel out of the blade.
When that happens, the steel bit goes flying and if it hits you it can cut severely.

When dealing with delicate objects, always best to start on the least invasive side of things. If it is just surface rust, some sandpaper wrapped around a bit of garden hose does a good job. Deeper rust might need more work. I've used greaseless on cotton wheels but it tends to dull lines in the grind so not advisable all the time. But 80 grit greaseless makes short work of taking down dragon's spit most of the time. Not everyone has a grinder or a buffer though - so hand-sanding is an easier option that's accessible to almost everyone.
Remember, when taking out rust, you're actually taking material off the blade. Surface rust comes off easy but when there is rust IN the steel,, you have to go deeper. Once you take steel off, you can't put it back on. Slow and steady wins the race.

 

[WhiteRabbitAgain]

Ok, I think I'll stick to using it for cleaning rust off old pruners.

Gonna look into the felt polishing wheel or whatever they are, that'll be a bit though. Gotta do some homework first.

 

[frbock]

the buffing compound comes in different grits.
I'd suggest you start with the finest and see if you make progress, then if necessary move up in grit.
You will have to use the finer grits on the way back down. So the experiment isn't a waste, it just reduces the chance of ***.
Thought you'd like a quick chart on the grits

Buffing Compound Color Chart | PURUI Polishing Products

This buffing compound color chart, will let you know how to choice the right polishing compound during the buffing and polishing process.

www.puruipolishing.com

 

[Slash McCoy]

A little bit ago I acquired a pack of cheapish abrasive buffing wheel attachments for a dremel, they basically look like a puff of steelwool on a dremel bit. The intended purpose was cleaning off rust from heavier tools, and I am not sure about using them on a straight razor.
Should steel buffing wheels be avoided?
Is a buffing compound necessary or just preferred?
Is there risk of damage if used improperly?

These are the thingies. https://amzn.to/3yvoGYh

I have used those things and I really don't like them all that much. Kinda okayish if there is pitting but not heavy enough for sandpaper. My go-to is the felt wheels and the special threaded mandrel for them, and the cloth wheels are almost as good. I use them with diamond paste, never coarser than 3µ and progressing through 1, .5, .25, and .1µ grits as appropriate.

I firmly insist that you make your dremel noob mistakes on a few GD66 or other expendable razors, because the chances are excellent that you will destroy one or two razors while learning "don't do THAT" kind of stuff. Always use proper PPE, always use variable speed Dremel or the Harbor Freight heavy duty knockoff, always on a low to medium speed, always with the razor oriented so that the rotating tool goes from spine to edge and never edge to spine, always laying the razor down on an aluminum or copper plate for a heat sink, always using light pressure, always remembering that a razor or even a tiny bit of a shattered razor or dremel bit can cause a terrible injury, so fast do they travel, and you will have zero warning or time to react. Also, it is very easy to overheat the thin steel at the edge, and you will never again be able to depend on that edge to last through a shave. Look for the threads for the annual Gold Dollar Modification Competition for tales of woe and warning. Nobody has died yet, or to my knowledge even been blinded, but you seriously need to be careful to help maintain our safety record, and not ruin a good razor in literally less than a heartbeat. A Dremel is great, but remember it is like a coiled rattlesnake, waiting waiting patiently waiting to BITE you.

 

[duke762]

I'm a big fan of a progression of wet/dry grits with WD40 and my trusty pointer finger. Don't rush things. I did 13 progressions on a razor once to get it where I wanted it, starting at 600 and finally ending at 2500.

Then, and only then, did I move to a loose sewn 4" wheel, slowed way down to about 300 rpm and the lightest dab of white rouge. Held in my bare hands to detect any heat. Perfect enough for me. I seem to only use a dremel on the curve in the tang.

Thank you Slash for the safety tips. I've worked with metal 6 days a week for 50 years and I just take it for granted that everyone should know these things. Thanks again for speaking up!

Over the years, I've helped carry out coworkers on stretchers, with life altering injuries, more than once. I've thrown Speedy Dry oil absorbent on blood puddles. All because of a moment of not having their head in the game. Think and visualize before you do anything. This turns this way and will catch that, should be addressed mentally before touching anything with a rotating tool.

Because razors are so hard, screwing up and putting a big chip in the blade can lead to projectile like fragments. Hardened steel is dangerous as all get out when it fails. Eye protection!

Have a ball, learn new skills, but don't mess yourself up doing it.

 

[Yodascaretaker]

I use them regularly with diamond paste. I am VERY comfortable with using a dremel around edges and have it setup for maximum precision. Pistol grip, throttle control foot pedal, magnetic base to keep workpiece stable (most importantly keeps the edge glued to the bench so even if you ran over it with the tool spinning away it won’t catch), etc…

I’ve probably got over 5,000 hours running a dremel as I’ve been doing various types of restoration (mostly hand tools for woodworking) for a while. It feels like coloring with a marker to me at this point.

Setup and preparation is paramount. If someone tries holding a blade in their one hand and running a dremel on it with the other, it’s gonna be a bad time.

It can be an extremely advantageous tool that will make things 1,000 times easier if used properly, but if used improperly, it can and will mess up your project (and potentially you).

ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN USING A DREMEL!!!