So, I have been wet shaving since I received an entry level “Art of Shaving” (AoS) Starter Kit for Christmas and absolutely love the experience. Wish I had not waited until age 51 to become a convert to wet shaving.
I decided to post a series of "A newbies first impression..." threads in the hopes that what I am learning here at the "shallow end of the learning curve" can help those newbies that are even newer to wet shaving than I.
To set the stage, I started off using a Edwin Jagger DE89Lbl double edge safety razor, then moved on to a Merkur Model 38 Classic "Barber Pole" Long Safety Razor, and then got into using vintage Gillette Turn-To-Open (TTO) safety razors. But, before I discuss the vintage razors let’s tackle the two modern razors I have had the majority of my experience using.
The first is colloquially referred to as the EJ89 and the second is the M38Hd, where the Hd stands for Heavy duty. The E89 is a lined and detailed chrome plated razor whose dimensions are 1.8 x 1 x 3.8 inches. And, if I have this right, these razors are made in England. When you start your research on what safety razor a newbie should begin with you invariably come across like a bazillion reviews on the EJ89. And at just a bit over $30, this razor is an excellent place to start. The razor is very easy to load a double edged razor into and easy to clean
. However, when it comes to handling this razor if your hands are a little on the larger side, like mine, you might find the length of the handle a little short. Even if this razor is the perfect size for your hand, I found handling it to be a challenge for the following reason. Despite how pretty and stylish the lined handle appears, since the lines run parallel to the length of the handle you may find the razor a bit slippery in wet or soapy hands 
. You also will also note that the knob at the end of the handle is essentially the same diameter as the handle itself.
For these latter reasons I actually found the M38Hd more to my liking, and you may as well. The M38Hd razor, made in Solingen, Germany, has a solid brass core and polished chrome finish and can come with a Barber Pole Handle that is 3-3/4 inches long. The razor's overall dimensions are 1.5 x 1 x 4 inches and typically runs closer to $40 than the less expensive EJ89. In addition to its longer handle, the M38 weighs in at an impressive 113.37 grams, versus the 75.06 grams of the EJ89. And, the end of the handle has a rather larger knob compared to the EJ89. So, for me, the greater length and heft of the handle, the Barber Pole patterning along the handle's length as well as the larger knob at the end (both reducing slippage in a wet, soapy hand) all contributed to a shaving experience superior to the EJ89. Another plus to the M38Hd's greater weight is it's a little easier to allow the weight of the razor to do the work of cutting off whiskers rather than applying pressure against the face; the latter being a common mistake that cartridge razor users have to train themselves out of. Here is a side-by-side comparison photo of the EJ89 and the M38Hd -
Thinking I had found "safety razor Nirvana", unless I wanted to drop $299 or so for a Above The Tie Razor System, I was content with my M38Hd until I started reading threads with guys going on and on about vintage Gillette razors. So, I took the bait. I had seen reference to birth-year razors and so I thought it would be cool to pick up a 1963-made Gillette for myself. Well, needless to say, I could not stop at one
. I now own two birth-year razors, a 1963 Gillette Super Speed Flare-Tip TTO and a Gillette Slim Adjustable TTO. Here are some photos of my vintage Gillettes -
My initial experience with the Super Speed Flare-Tip TTO razor was a disaster. Despite having honed my newbie skills with my cherished M38Hd to the point I was achieving nick-free and very comfortable shaves, without razor burn or other irritation, using this vintage razor was a blood-letting and in some cases blood-curdling experience
. It was not until I learned that you need a much shallower angle between the head of the razor and your face, than with modern razors, that I stopped nicking myself. However, although I could achieve a nick-free shave with the vintage razor I still was not getting as close a shave as with my M38hd.
I then switched to using the Gillette Slim Adjustable TTO razor, beginning with it set to "3" and eventually working my way up to "5". Although I achieved the closer shave I was looking for when set at "5" if I was not careful I still had a tendency to nick myself if I was not careful. Also, both razors were lighter than and had a shorter handle than my M38Hd. So, at this point I was about ready to give up on vintage razors until I picked up a 1959 Gillette "Fat Boy" Adjustable TTO safety razor -
All I can say is WOW
. Now this is what I expected Nirvana to be like. Despite its short handle by comparison to the M38Hd, the greater thickness and knurled pattern on the Fat Boy makes it a pleasure to shave with. Also, while experimenting with the settings I came to discover that the best way for me to achieve a nick-free shave is to start off at "5" for my first pass, drop it to "4" for my second pass, and down to "3' for my third pass and any touch ups. And, voila, I am getting an incredibly comfortable BBS shave every day 
!
Not that I would not pick up a Weber PH just to see what all the buzz is about this safety razor, and I could also someday go top-shelf and get an ATT Razor System, but at this point I am hard-pressed to see how it could outperform my "Fat Boy". For now, if I could only own one razor I would be perfectly happy with my 1959 Gillette "Fat Boy".
Hope this thread helps you newbies figure out what razor to give a try. And, I would suggest you seriously consider foregoing the modern route and pick yourself up a nice "Fat Boy"; ya'll can't beat vintage!
Tim
I decided to post a series of "A newbies first impression..." threads in the hopes that what I am learning here at the "shallow end of the learning curve" can help those newbies that are even newer to wet shaving than I.
To set the stage, I started off using a Edwin Jagger DE89Lbl double edge safety razor, then moved on to a Merkur Model 38 Classic "Barber Pole" Long Safety Razor, and then got into using vintage Gillette Turn-To-Open (TTO) safety razors. But, before I discuss the vintage razors let’s tackle the two modern razors I have had the majority of my experience using.
The first is colloquially referred to as the EJ89 and the second is the M38Hd, where the Hd stands for Heavy duty. The E89 is a lined and detailed chrome plated razor whose dimensions are 1.8 x 1 x 3.8 inches. And, if I have this right, these razors are made in England. When you start your research on what safety razor a newbie should begin with you invariably come across like a bazillion reviews on the EJ89. And at just a bit over $30, this razor is an excellent place to start. The razor is very easy to load a double edged razor into and easy to clean
. However, when it comes to handling this razor if your hands are a little on the larger side, like mine, you might find the length of the handle a little short. Even if this razor is the perfect size for your hand, I found handling it to be a challenge for the following reason. Despite how pretty and stylish the lined handle appears, since the lines run parallel to the length of the handle you may find the razor a bit slippery in wet or soapy hands . You also will also note that the knob at the end of the handle is essentially the same diameter as the handle itself.For these latter reasons I actually found the M38Hd more to my liking, and you may as well. The M38Hd razor, made in Solingen, Germany, has a solid brass core and polished chrome finish and can come with a Barber Pole Handle that is 3-3/4 inches long. The razor's overall dimensions are 1.5 x 1 x 4 inches and typically runs closer to $40 than the less expensive EJ89. In addition to its longer handle, the M38 weighs in at an impressive 113.37 grams, versus the 75.06 grams of the EJ89. And, the end of the handle has a rather larger knob compared to the EJ89. So, for me, the greater length and heft of the handle, the Barber Pole patterning along the handle's length as well as the larger knob at the end (both reducing slippage in a wet, soapy hand) all contributed to a shaving experience superior to the EJ89. Another plus to the M38Hd's greater weight is it's a little easier to allow the weight of the razor to do the work of cutting off whiskers rather than applying pressure against the face; the latter being a common mistake that cartridge razor users have to train themselves out of. Here is a side-by-side comparison photo of the EJ89 and the M38Hd -
Thinking I had found "safety razor Nirvana", unless I wanted to drop $299 or so for a Above The Tie Razor System, I was content with my M38Hd until I started reading threads with guys going on and on about vintage Gillette razors. So, I took the bait. I had seen reference to birth-year razors and so I thought it would be cool to pick up a 1963-made Gillette for myself. Well, needless to say, I could not stop at one
. I now own two birth-year razors, a 1963 Gillette Super Speed Flare-Tip TTO and a Gillette Slim Adjustable TTO. Here are some photos of my vintage Gillettes - My initial experience with the Super Speed Flare-Tip TTO razor was a disaster. Despite having honed my newbie skills with my cherished M38Hd to the point I was achieving nick-free and very comfortable shaves, without razor burn or other irritation, using this vintage razor was a blood-letting and in some cases blood-curdling experience
. It was not until I learned that you need a much shallower angle between the head of the razor and your face, than with modern razors, that I stopped nicking myself. However, although I could achieve a nick-free shave with the vintage razor I still was not getting as close a shave as with my M38hd.I then switched to using the Gillette Slim Adjustable TTO razor, beginning with it set to "3" and eventually working my way up to "5". Although I achieved the closer shave I was looking for when set at "5" if I was not careful I still had a tendency to nick myself if I was not careful. Also, both razors were lighter than and had a shorter handle than my M38Hd. So, at this point I was about ready to give up on vintage razors until I picked up a 1959 Gillette "Fat Boy" Adjustable TTO safety razor -
All I can say is WOW
. Now this is what I expected Nirvana to be like. Despite its short handle by comparison to the M38Hd, the greater thickness and knurled pattern on the Fat Boy makes it a pleasure to shave with. Also, while experimenting with the settings I came to discover that the best way for me to achieve a nick-free shave is to start off at "5" for my first pass, drop it to "4" for my second pass, and down to "3' for my third pass and any touch ups. And, voila, I am getting an incredibly comfortable BBS shave every day !Not that I would not pick up a Weber PH just to see what all the buzz is about this safety razor, and I could also someday go top-shelf and get an ATT Razor System, but at this point I am hard-pressed to see how it could outperform my "Fat Boy". For now, if I could only own one razor I would be perfectly happy with my 1959 Gillette "Fat Boy".
Hope this thread helps you newbies figure out what razor to give a try. And, I would suggest you seriously consider foregoing the modern route and pick yourself up a nice "Fat Boy"; ya'll can't beat vintage!
Tim
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