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30 Minutes or Less: Ever-Ready 101 A

I have been really bogged down with work/studying recently, and haven't had any time to add the inevitable next brush to my restoration list. I had been looking for an orange bakelite brush for quite some time - as it is my father's favorite color. The only ones that came along were either a) too bulky b) too expensive or c) required more restoration work than I commit right now. But then a handle popped up on eBay that met all my criteria - a nice, classic, compact design that I could get for under $20. And to seal the deal - the knot had already been removed, it had been peripherally cleaned up, and I knew I could restore this little bugger on one of my study breaks. As 30 minutes is literally the max amount of time I could commit to this project right now, that was my deadline.


Here is how it arrived. Pretty much ready to go, right?
$$T2eC16ZHJGkFFm2jEOVFBRfB7w(hZQ~~60_57.jpg

Well, less so than meets the eye. No complaints here, as it is - compared to some other brushes I've worked with - in great condition. I had momentarily hoped I could just polish it up, and come in well under my 30 minute deadline. Alas, it needed to be sanded, and I'm not really into shortcuts.

I started at 320, then to 400, skipped to 800-1000-2000-2500-3000. I got into a bit of a zen mode around the 800 grit paper, and in a flash the sanding was done. I checked the clock, and was at 28 minutes (yes I was timing it ... and yes I have problems). Some Rubbing Compound and PlastX for 5 more minutes, and it was shining nicely. I use paint crayons to color in lettering, so it takes literally 30 seconds.
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The lettering still needs a bit of work. One of the flaws I noticed when I received the handle is that it appeared as though someone had tried to either clean out the letters with something sharp, or perhaps "deepen" the letter grooves, as there was some digging in and stray scratches around the letters. Someone had clearly given this at least a brief sanding, as some of the lettering was already too shallow to paint/color effectively. So it was a calculated risk I took going at the letters, and indeed, some of them just aren't going to be crisp ever again. But the "Ever~Ready" and the "101 A" will be fine. I set one layer of paint, let it "cure" for a week or so, then go back to finish the job ... so the lettering will crisp up more than the current picture shows.

The knot is on its way from China. It's a 19mm 2-band finest that I custom ordered from the people who supply Frank Shaving with their knots. They were able to work with me on getting the starting loft and knot size just where I want it, so I went with them. And the price was ridiculously low (we're talking under $10). Plus, it will be fun to work with another knot than TGN.

Final pic to come, but the current restoration came in just over budget, including taking the photo: 34 minutes. As the epoxy dries within 5 minutes, I better darn well be able to set the knot in that time, so I'm hoping for the whole thing to come in under 40 minutes.

Gotta feed the brush restoration addiction at least a little!
 
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That's looks really nice. Didn't get a chance to read the entire post but will later. I'm working on a restore and could use some of the info here to restore my brush.
 
You really dolled that handle up.

Post pics when you get the knot in and the brush covered in lather :001_smile
 
That looks amazing. I actually like the fade on the lettering.

I'm with you. It's not meant to be a trophy ... I only keep about 3-4 brushes in the rotation at any given time, and use the dickens out of them. The rest go to intrigued friends or get traded. Surely, it's going to get dinged up a bit, so the fading doesn't bother me one bit. The "cracked" appearance to the more prominent text should go away with the second coat of paint.

You really dolled that handle up.

Post pics when you get the knot in and the brush covered in lather :001_smile

Rest assured, sir, I am champing at the bit to do so!
 
Beautiful! The black / white contrast makes the handle color pop that much more. Nice work.

Yeah, that's where I landed, too. I actually colored in the engraving up front to guard against loosing too much depth to the lettering. My first inclination was to use orange, so I tested that on the "sterilized" engraving on the back. It looked nice, but then when I did black on the front ... "pop" is exactly what came to mind. Way better. So I did all of it in black, sanded it up, then re-painted. I really love using these paint crayons. There is absolutely zero prep, it takes no time at all to fill in the engraving, and is extremely easy to clean up. Before it sets, it is extremely easy to wipe out if you don't like it, and once it does set, it is there for good.
 
That's good to know - I have an E-R 150 that's almost ready to set the knot, but I think I'll track down some paint crayons first to take care of the lettering before I deal with the knot. I imagine it'll be easier to deal with clean-up and final polishing without having to worry about the knot.
 
Few questions. Can you tell me a bit more about repainting the lettering. What you used and the process? Also. Did you sand the top white half of the handle or just the bottom?
 
Can you tell me a bit more about repainting the lettering. What you used and the process?

Sure. I use a paint crayon. You can find these at any art supply store, and they will run anywhere from $0.50 to $3, depending on quality of paint. I personally don't think you need anything beyond a basic oil paint crayon. You can buy whole sets of these for $10, and will give you tons of colors. There are some who will insist on higher quality paints, or perhaps even insist on using enamel, but in my experience the cheap little crayons work fine. I've used them in half a dozen brushes or so, and the paint has stayed crisp in all of them. I only started using them about 6 months ago, so I can't comment on how it will hold up over 5 or 10 years, but to be honest, it is so easy to reapply, that taking 30 seconds every year or so to touch up the lettering wouldn't dissuade me from continuing to use them. I actually got the idea from people who have used this exact same product to re-color engravings on their musical instruments - and they claim it holds up just fine.

The process couldn't be simpler. You just press the crayon down and apply it over the lettering. You can wipe the excess away with any sort of cloth, and you're left with nicely painted letters. Depending how deep the engravings are, you may need to do a couple layers. If the engraving is still nice and deep, one or two applications will be plenty. If things are a bit shallower, you will have to do a couple layers, and be a little more diligent about making sure the paint finds its way into the letters. For such brushes (as the one above) I paint a layer or two, wipe it clean and let the paint set for a week or so, then apply another layer or two. The current brush is still on it's first layer, but I am confident once I apply another it will be good to go. A friend who uses these for musical instruments says she uses a blow-dryer to sort of melt the paint, and it helps it seep in a little better ... and I may give that a go this time around to see if it helps.

Also. Did you sand the top white half of the handle or just the bottom?

I sanded the whole thing. It really makes a huge difference. It brings out a whole new color, both in the orange and the white. In addition, it takes everything from a flat/matte finish to something really reflective and polished. You can sort of tell that the orange is nicely glossy, but once I get the knot set I will try to show just how mirrored the white top is as well. That is why I called it a "gamble" to sand the top portion. I knew I would lose some precious depth to the engraving, but I valued the glossy/reflective finish more, so I went for it.
 
Beautiful handle. I love how sanded and polished Bakelite pops after it's re-finished. Nice work! I've been looking for one of those. I hope your father enjoys it!
 
Beautiful handle. I love how sanded and polished Bakelite pops after it's re-finished. Nice work! I've been looking for one of those. I hope your father enjoys it!

Agreed! After seeing the Adoration brush you fixed up, I - yet again - followed your lead! :w00t: The transformation was better than I could have hoped for. The knot should arrive today, so I'll post a final pic tomorrow or the next day once everything is cured up.
 
So I finally got the knot, and popped it in. I wanted this to be a dedicated face latherer, and I decided to set the loft nice and low. The knot is a 19.5 mm Manchurian Finest. I had yet to try the knots from anyone except TGN, so I didn't knot what to expect.

The knot:
$photo 1.JPG
I obviously haven't gotten it wet yet, but I was impressed with the knot I received. Very nice black-white two band contrast, and this is a very very well packed knot. It is at least as dense as the TGN XH, and to me it feels even denser. The dry tips are very nicely soft, but perhaps not quite as soft as dry TGN tips. We'll see how it goes once I test it.

Here is the brush, with the silicone glue curing away. I set it at 44mm loft, though it looks higher in the picture due to the angle.
$photo.JPG

In all, I'm happy with how it turned out. The lettering didn't quite crisp up as much as I had hoped, but it is perfectly acceptable to my eyes. It'll be a daily driver, so I'm not too worried about it being pristine. The orange turned out wonderfully. I know it will make dad happy.

I am going to defunk it and get it bloomed for him, and will put up post-bloom pictures when I have them.
 
Gave the Ever-Ready its first bath and lathering today. It is 19.5 x 44 mm. I could have gone a little lower on the loft, and briefly entertained a 42 mm loft, but I am glad it ended up where it did. It is quite well packed, which gives it tons of backbone - probably the equivalent backbone a less well packed knot would have at something like 42mm loft. The tips are nice and soft - softer than I anticipated when I first got it. And while the pictures don't really show it all that well, the tips are very white. Much whiter than my TGN 2-band knots. Not sure if it is because they simply have whiter tips, if they treat them, or if it is because I asked them for the whitest tips they could give me. In any case, visually it checks all the boxes. We will have to see how it evolves from a performance stand point.

Building some nice Mike's Hungarian Lavender:
$photo 1.JPG

Post initial bloom:
$photo 4.JPG

Bird's eye:
$photo 3.JPG
 
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