2016 "Gold Dollar" MOD Competition is ON!

[pantoporos aporos]

+1


Now, the scales didn't come out as well as expected.
I tried to do some (simple) scrimshaw, but the scales looked better before the blackening, with just the bare scratching.
The camel bone also was more porous than I thought, so there are many tiny irregularities that fills with the colour, which was unintended.

Not sure if I should remove the colour again - I think I will sleep on it and then put the whole thing together tomorrow, so I can get honing.
I'm rather interested in how much honing is needed before the good metal show, because it looks/feels like the bluing process is deep.

Those scales look great, despite the bleeding of the coloring. Makes them look authentic, somehow. There'd be no shame in leaving them as is.

On a side note, I'm also curious about honing a blackened blade. I don't want to reveal fresh metal by the spine, but don't want to tape an already wide ZY (i thinned the spine quite a bit, but don't own a caliper so can't calculate the bevel angle).

Decisions, decisions!

 

[Slash McCoy]

I like the scales, Soren. I would have thought they came out that way on purpose. You seem to have found an excellent scale treatment, completely by accident. It is unique and catches the eye.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Those scales look great, despite the bleeding of the coloring. Makes them look authentic, somehow. There'd be no shame in leaving them as is.

On a side note, I'm also curious about honing a blackened blade. I don't want to reveal fresh metal by the spine, but don't want to tape an already wide ZY (i thinned the spine quite a bit, but don't own a caliper so can't calculate the bevel angle).

Decisions, decisions!

You could set the bevel first, and run your full progression, before blueing, blacking, graying, etc, and then for initial display purposes, go ahead and touch up with taped spine just the first time, using barely enough laps to give you a great edge.. You are of course correct in wanting to avoid tape on such a thick razor, but a half dozen laps on your finisher, with tape, just one time, won't effect it enough to worry about. Subsequent honing can and should be without tape but be aware you will need to back up a couple of grits to fix the bevel the first time you rehone without tape.

 

[pantoporos aporos]

You could set the bevel first, and run your full progression, before blueing, blacking, graying, etc, and then for initial display purposes, go ahead and touch up with taped spine just the first time, using barely enough laps to give you a great edge.. You are of course correct in wanting to avoid tape on such a thick razor, but a half dozen laps on your finisher, with tape, just one time, won't effect it enough to worry about. Subsequent honing can and should be without tape but be aware you will need to back up a couple of grits to fix the bevel the first time you rehone without tape.

That would have been the smart way to do it, for sure! Unfortunately, my blade is already blued and, as you'll see in my next post, my razor is basically done. Oh well, live and learn. I'm still undecided whether to tape or not. I really don't want to damage the blueing, but also want a shave-worthy blade. Argh, indecision!

I'll probably hone it without taping, and then re-blue in the future (but not in time for this competition). We'll see.

 

[pantoporos aporos]

After a few days of applying a CA finish to the scales, I've finished my ZY shorty!
Well, I still have to hone it and shave with it, so I suppose this isn't yet my submission, but it should tell you something about how it looks!

The photos do flatter the razor, but these are straight from the camera: no post-processing, no "filters," no monkey business...

For the sake of honesty, the blueing/blackening of the razor is not as smooth as it may seem in the photos. I think Soren might be right when he says that there's something funky with the steel in these chinese razors, and it doesn't blue smoothly (not that I'm an expert at it).


I applied several layers of CA to the scales, sanded it to 1200 grit (wet/dry sandpaper), and polished it with MAAS and a rag.


The blade was completely blued once (well, several coats), polished with black, brown, and white compounds, then MAAS, and then blued again (many more coats). Ended up with some nice contrast between the smooth metal and the runes!


an indication of the shape of the blade




(I'm not sure why this image is upside down, and can't seem to be able to fix it. My apologies)

It's not perfect, but I learned a lot making it and am very happy with the result! But to echo Slash and Soren, there's no losers in this competition. I really liked working on this, and get to walk away with a great looking shorty!

I'll post an update after I hone it this weekend. Good luck to everyone still working on their mods!

 

[Guestabc]

Very Nice!!!

 

[pantoporos aporos]

Well, I tried to hone it (unicot) this evening, but no luck. Must not have set the bevel properly. Will have to try again, maybe with a full film progression and finish on the coti.

 

[Haiku]

Don't change a thing. They have a "primitive" folk look that is both unique and very attractive. They have a Japanese and somehow an African sensibility that really works.

+1


Now, the scales didn't come out as well as expected.
I tried to do some (simple) scrimshaw, but the scales looked better before the blackening, with just the bare scratching.
The camel bone also was more porous than I thought, so there are many tiny irregularities that fills with the colour, which was unintended.

Not sure if I should remove the colour again - I think I will sleep on it and then put the whole thing together tomorrow, so I can get honing.
I'm rather interested in how much honing is needed before the good metal show, because it looks/feels like the bluing process is deep.

 

[jlindy]

Now, the scales didn't come out as well as expected.
I tried to do some (simple) scrimshaw, but the scales looked better before the blackening, with just the bare scratching.
The camel bone also was more porous than I thought, so there are many tiny irregularities that fills with the colour, which was unintended.

Not sure if I should remove the colour again - I think I will sleep on it and then put the whole thing together tomorrow, so I can get honing.
I'm rather interested in how much honing is needed before the good metal show, because it looks/feels like the bluing process is deep.

Ya' know I don't think I'd change much... The more I study it, the more I like the 'vibe' I get from the bone. When you have it all assembled I think it'll look spot on... =)

 

[jlindy]

After a few days of applying a CA finish to the scales, I've finished my ZY shorty!
Well, I still have to hone it and shave with it, so I suppose this isn't yet my submission, but it should tell you something about how it looks!

The photos do flatter the razor, but these are straight from the camera: no post-processing, no "filters," no monkey business...

For the sake of honesty, the blueing/blackening of the razor is not as smooth as it may seem in the photos. I think Soren might be right when he says that there's something funky with the steel in these chinese razors, and it doesn't blue smoothly (not that I'm an expert at it).

View attachment 666679
I applied several layers of CA to the scales, sanded it to 1200 grit (wet/dry sandpaper), and polished it with MAAS and a rag.

View attachment 666680
The blade was completely blued once (well, several coats), polished with black, brown, and white compounds, then MAAS, and then blued again (many more coats). Ended up with some nice contrast between the smooth metal and the runes!

View attachment 666681
an indication of the shape of the blade

View attachment 666682

View attachment 666684
(I'm not sure why this image is upside down, and can't seem to be able to fix it. My apologies)

It's not perfect, but I learned a lot making it and am very happy with the result! But to echo Slash and Soren, there's no losers in this competition. I really liked working on this, and get to walk away with a great looking shorty!

I'll post an update after I hone it this weekend. Good luck to everyone still working on their mods!

Nice work! Well Done! I really like the spine work. You've done well enough that your razor can defy gravity! =)

 

[shm]

After a few days of applying a CA finish to the scales, I've finished my ZY shorty!
Well, I still have to hone it and shave with it, so I suppose this isn't yet my submission, but it should tell you something about how it looks!

The photos do flatter the razor, but these are straight from the camera: no post-processing, no "filters," no monkey business...

For the sake of honesty, the blueing/blackening of the razor is not as smooth as it may seem in the photos. I think Soren might be right when he says that there's something funky with the steel in these chinese razors, and it doesn't blue smoothly (not that I'm an expert at it).

View attachment 666679
I applied several layers of CA to the scales, sanded it to 1200 grit (wet/dry sandpaper), and polished it with MAAS and a rag.

View attachment 666680
The blade was completely blued once (well, several coats), polished with black, brown, and white compounds, then MAAS, and then blued again (many more coats). Ended up with some nice contrast between the smooth metal and the runes!

View attachment 666681
an indication of the shape of the blade

View attachment 666682

View attachment 666684
(I'm not sure why this image is upside down, and can't seem to be able to fix it. My apologies)

It's not perfect, but I learned a lot making it and am very happy with the result! But to echo Slash and Soren, there's no losers in this competition. I really liked working on this, and get to walk away with a great looking shorty!

I'll post an update after I hone it this weekend. Good luck to everyone still working on their mods!

Wow!
It is looking great.
It is a very well executed project. Normally I'm not too fond of those "swirling" scales, but I really love it on your razor.
I'm generally a sucker for wood, and I love the light wood and the grains - you can definitely be proud of it

 

[shm]

Thank you very much Gentlemen for your input about the scales it is much appreciated. I'll keep them as they are.

I was hoping to put the razor together today, but just found out that the pins I wanted to use, are too short
I have just ordered some brass stuff and hopefully it can be here in time.
I didn't take into consideration that the bone is thicker than the wood and micarta I have been using so far, and I don't like to thin the bone more.

 

[CBLindsay]

Thank you very much Gentlemen for your input about the scales it is much appreciated. I'll keep them as they are.

I was hoping to put the razor together today, but just found out that the pins I wanted to use, are too short
I have just ordered some brass stuff and hopefully it can be here in time.
I didn't take into consideration that the bone is thicker than the wood and micarta I have been using so far, and I don't like to thin the bone more.

I have some micro fasteners (screws nuts washers) and brass rods (enough to do 10 razors) I can get some in the mail on Monday if you need a set of either. Just PM if you think it's needed (I'm in California so figure postal time accordingly)

 

[pantoporos aporos]

Also, your local Ace Hardware might have brass rods of the correct diameter!

 

[Slash McCoy]

Hobby Lobby, Hobby Hut, etc have brass rod too. Maggards, Revisor, etc for nickel silver. Ebay is ur friend when looking for pin stock. Microfasteners rocks. You can use the size 0 bolts for trial pinnings and then peen the bolt ends for permanent. They have never let me down on at least a half dozen orders. Got some brass rod from hardware store and it turned out to be tubing. Darn.

 

[shm]

I have some micro fasteners (screws nuts washers) and brass rods (enough to do 10 razors) I can get some in the mail on Monday if you need a set of either. Just PM if you think it's needed (I'm in California so figure postal time accordingly)

Thank you very much, that is an awesome offer
But I'm hoping t get my stuff (rod, washers and micro nuts) at the end of next week, and I'll be coming by a couple of hardware stores tomorrow, so I'll pop in and see what they have in store.
It doesn't matter what material the pins are for the competition entry, I can always exchange them later.

Thanks again

 

[Charun]

So it begins:

First GD mod for me, so don't hold your breath. Chances are that it'll end up in the bin.

 

[CBLindsay]

So it begins:

First GD mod for me, so don't hold your breath. Chances are that it'll end up in the bin.

I like the modification so far ...simple yet effective. Don't discount the possibilities, these Chinese razors have turned out to be among my best shaving blades after I hacked away at them.

 

[Charun]

I like the modification so far ...simple yet effective. Don't discount the possibilities, these Chinese razors have turned out to be among my best shaving blades after I hacked away at them.

Thanks! It was a long and hard road to get it there.
I actually have a Vorpal modded GD, that is among my best shavers, but i'm not completely confident that i can make all the modifications i'm set my mind on while keeping the temper on the steel, so it's very possible that this one will never shave.

Anyway, the work is on the way:

 

[Charun]

Damned China quality:

This might complicate my participation in this competition, as i currently don't have another GD, and my work schedule will probably also interfere even if i manage to get a second razor in a couple of days..
Oh well; at least i now got a blade to work on for my wedge SE's. Also learned that heating the tang with heat absorbing paste covering a part of the razor might end in this kind of result.