Chrome Tanned vs Vegetable Tanned Leather Strops?

[5whiskey]

Maybe I was not clear enough in my OP. Other than being more environmentally friendly in manufacture, is veg tanned leather better than chrome tanned leather for a strop and why?

I have worked with leather a little over 5 years now. I make holsters, sheaths, wallets, padfolios, book binding...

For a razor strop veg tanned leather will flex less, as it is generally less flexible. Also veg tan is easier to top dress, sand smooth, burnish, etc. Most chrome tanned leathers will generally be much thinner. As Tony said, if you order enough square footage of leather you can get the thickness you want by the tanning method you want. Honestly there's a reason why hides much over 4-5 ounce are all veg tanned.

Chrome tanned is preferred for some applications. Book binding, furniture, garments, anything where you want the leather to flex easy and folded at corners to be taught. Veg tanned is good for sheaths, holsters, saddles, strops, and a number of other applications. It tools easily (chrome tanned barely tools at all), and it is much more rigid than chrome tanned. Again, the top of veg tanned leather can be sanded and burnished. I've honestly never tried this with chrome tan but I just don't see it working.

You want veg tan for a strop. I suppose chrome tan would work, but there are a number of traits to veg tanned letter that make it better suited for a strop.

 

[rbscebu]

Thank you @5whiskey, that explains a lot to me.

I have both veg and chrome tanned leather strops. The chrome tanned is indeed much thinner (about 1mm) and very flexible. I use the chrome tanned held with the cloth strop underneath. This gives more stiffness to the leather.

Being thin and flexible, the chrome tanned strop (with cloth strop) is good for travel as it packs very easily.

 

[Ravenonrock]

I’m settling in with my DIY Latigo strop. Combination tanned, heavy leather that has a surprisingly fast draw I’m getting comfortable with. Cut it longer and left it with a plain angle cut for grip which feels very natural to hold.

 

[5whiskey]

Thank you @5whiskey, that explains a lot to me.

I have both veg and chrome tanned leather strops. The chrome tanned is indeed much thinner (about 1mm) and very flexible. I use the chrome tanned held with the cloth strop underneath. This gives more stiffness to the leather.

Being thin and flexible, the chrome tanned strop (with cloth strop) is good for travel as it packs very easily.

Now that you mention it, I could see a chrome tanned strop being quite handy to travel with. Acting more like canvass than leather, you can roll it and fold it and it will unfurl with no "memory curl." Veg tan leather... yeah if it spends any amount of time rolled it will probably keep that curl for a good long while. Likely would have to wet it to straighten it out. I hadn't really thought of that. I do see some value in a chrome tan strop for ease of packing/storage/travel.

 

[Tony Miller]

The more flexible leathers, either thin, soft veg tanned or chrome tanned work nicely on the old curved "smiling" edge razor too conforming to the profile of the cutting edge.

 

[Pack line]

Can we throw brain tanned leather into the mix?

 

[Pack line]

On a serious note, i have been doing leather work for more then 20 years. Holsters, sheaths, rucksacks, bags, shoes, etc.. It has never dawned on my to use chrome tanned as a strop. It just doesn't have that strop feel like veg tan has. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Pack line]

The more i think about it i realize that when i think chrome tan my I picture 2 oz ish garment leather. Probably because i prefer to work with veg tan. Next time I am at the leather store I will have to check out some of the thicker chrome tan stuff. See how it feels.

 

[5whiskey]

The more i think about it i realize that when i think chrome tan my I picture 2 oz ish garment leather. Probably because i prefer to work with veg tan. Next time I am at the leather store I will have to check out some of the thicker chrome tan stuff. See how it feels.

I too work almost exclusively with veg tan as the majority of my work is holsters, mag pouches, knife sheaths, belts, handcuff pouches, etc. I have tried my hand at book binding and I use chrome tan for that. Sometimes I use dual leather and make the covers from tooled veg tan, and I sew them to a strip of chrome tan leather for the spine. I also have just stretched chrome tan leather over hard card stock to make the front and rear covers. When I use chrome tan sewn to veg tan for the spine only, it's usually about as thick of a chrome tan leather as I can find. Usually 4-5 Oz. This would work for a strop. I still prefer veg tan though. Just because I can dress the top every so often.

 

[Tony Miller]

The more i think about it i realize that when i think chrome tan my I picture 2 oz ish garment leather. Probably because i prefer to work with veg tan. Next time I am at the leather store I will have to check out some of the thicker chrome tan stuff. See how it feels.

Usually the thickest you can find is around 4-5oz. Some of the combo tanned leathers (latigo, Horween Chromexcel, etc) are up to 9-10oz.

 

[w squared]

I'm a newbie to both straight razors and leatherworking - so it's entirely possible that I'm headed off in the wrong direction here. If I am, please chalk it up to simple ignorance in lieu of willful stupidity.

I have a strop that I've owned for some time (veg tanned leather mounted on wood). For baldes other than razors, I use 0.5 micron chromium oxide paste on one side to hone after sharpening with waterstones (Naniwa Chosera from 400 for damaged blades up to 10K at the top end). The backside of that strop is un-pasted veg tanned leather.

Now that I have some ebay straight razors on the way, I know that I'll benefit from a hanging strop as well. My thought is to use the smoothest harness leather that I can find on one side (in this case it' oil tanned, rather firm, 4 oz). My plan is to back it with another 3 oz very soft, oil-tanned leather, flesh side out. For leather that soft, the "backing" has very little extra material.

Am I correct in thinking that the flesh side of that supple leather should offer some of the benefits of linen or canvas? My plan is to use the hanging strap without any pastes or sprays.

If y'all tell me that I'm out to lunch with this plan, I'll happily use those hides for other projects. I've already had great results using the soft 3oz leather as lining for a kilt belt that I made out of very stout latigo leather.

 

[Legion]

I'm a newbie to both straight razors and leatherworking - so it's entirely possible that I'm headed off in the wrong direction here. If I am, please chalk it up to simple ignorance in lieu of willful stupidity.

I have a strop that I've owned for some time (veg tanned leather mounted on wood). For baldes other than razors, I use 0.5 micron chromium oxide paste on one side to hone after sharpening with waterstones (Naniwa Chosera from 400 for damaged blades up to 10K at the top end). The backside of that strop is un-pasted veg tanned leather.

Now that I have some ebay straight razors on the way, I know that I'll benefit from a hanging strop as well. My thought is to use the smoothest harness leather that I can find on one side (in this case it' oil tanned, rather firm, 4 oz). My plan is to back it with another 3 oz very soft, oil-tanned leather, flesh side out. For leather that soft, the "backing" has very little extra material.

Am I correct in thinking that the flesh side of that supple leather should offer some of the benefits of linen or canvas? My plan is to use the hanging strap without any pastes or sprays.

If y'all tell me that I'm out to lunch with this plan, I'll happily use those hides for other projects. I've already had great results using the soft 3oz leather as lining for a kilt belt that I made out of very stout latigo leather.

I think the only benefit the flesh side might have to a razor is it will clean the blade like linen, and keep the microscopic particles from building up on the smooth side. For stropping razors we usually only use the smooth side, plus linen if that is your thing.

 

[rbscebu]

I think the only benefit the flesh side might have to a razor is it will clean the blade like linen, and keep the microscopic particles from building up on the smooth side. For stropping razors we usually only use the smooth side, plus linen if that is your thing.

I have read that stropping on the flesh side of leather was the preferred method in a lot of Europe many years ago. Stropping on the smooth side came about relatively recently, some saying that it was an American influence (like driving on the wrong side of the road ).

 

[Legion]

I have read that stropping on the flesh side of leather was the preferred method in a lot of Europe many years ago. Stropping on the smooth side came about relatively recently, some saying that it was an American influence (like driving on the wrong side of the road ).

I’ve seen knife and tool strops that are made flesh side out, but I think they are intended to be pasted. I don’t recall ever finding a vintage hanging razor strop made that way.

 

[Pack line]

I have read that stropping on the flesh side of leather was the preferred method in a lot of Europe many years ago. Stropping on the smooth side came about relatively recently, some saying that it was an American influence (like driving on the wrong side of the road ).

Automobiles were invented by karl benz in germany. They drive on the right(ie correct) side of the road.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

I’ve seen knife and tool strops that are made flesh side out, but I think they are intended to be pasted. I don’t recall ever finding a vintage hanging razor strop made that way.

I thought the Russian Leather style, like the Illinois 827 and some of the Herold strops were flesh side for the stropping surface. No idea how long that has been done or how traditional it is.

 

[Pack line]

The last strop i made got both the flesh and the skin side sanded, and carefully cleaned. I still like the skin side over the flesh side.

 

[Tony Miller]

I thought the Russian Leather style, like the Illinois 827 and some of the Herold strops were flesh side for the stropping surface. No idea how long that has been done or how traditional it is.

Yes, the Illinois Russian strops and some other brands are the flesh side, either left with the natural texture as it was removed from the animal, or skived to get an even thickness and more uniform surface. Many were also compressed to make then more firm and increase surface temper or hardness.

 

[rbscebu]

The strops that now come with the cheaper Titan SRs are denim only so I glue a strip of natural chamois to one side for stropping. I have not noticed a difference in shaving between using chamois or "real" leather. The denim/chamois strop is great for packing and travel.

 

[Pack line]

Yes, the Illinois Russian strops and some other brands are the flesh side, either left with the natural texture as it was removed from the animal, or skived to get an even thickness and more uniform surface. Many were also compressed to make then more firm and increase surface temper or hardness.

Was thinking of trying that. Burnish the flesh side then resand it.