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New Paddle Strop Kits

Tony Miller

Speaking of horse butts…
I just added some 4 Side Paddle Strop Kits to my storefront. These kits include a turned oak blank finished with Linseed Oil and 4 pre-cut horsehide blanks you glue on yourself to complete the paddle strop. Stropping surfaces are 1 1/2" x 10" and are Horween Horsehide. I offer them in either smooth or roughout veg tanned or any combination of those you like.

I like the roughout for more coarse grits of stick type (wax based) or thick paste abrasive compounds and the smooth for finer grits of emulsions, sprays or liquids.

I find a solvent or water-based contact cement the best to hold the leather, but a carpenter's glue would also work but a bit slipperier to try and line up.

I can also stamp a "sequence" number, 1, 2, 3 or 4 on one end of each leather blank to help you keep track of which surface has each grit of abrasive, ie. #1 coarse, #2 medium, etc....

A Mennonite farming/woodworking family turns the rough paddle blanks for me and I cut them to length and finish them and supply the leather pre-cut for each paddle.



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Nowhere else to put this:

I just received my 3" Vanilla strop and it is fantastic. The leather is substantial and beautifully finished, and the hardware feels like it will last multiple lifetimes, probably longer.

Very, very nice strop and a heck of a value. 🙂👍
 

Tony Miller

Speaking of horse butts…
Nowhere else to put this:

I just received my 3" Vanilla strop and it is fantastic. The leather is substantial and beautifully finished, and the hardware feels like it will last multiple lifetimes, probably longer.

Very, very nice strop and a heck of a value. 🙂👍
Thank you and I am glad you like it.
 

steveclarkus

Goose Poop Connoisseur
I just added some 4 Side Paddle Strop Kits to my storefront. These kits include a turned oak blank finished with Linseed Oil and 4 pre-cut horsehide blanks you glue on yourself to complete the paddle strop. Stropping surfaces are 1 1/2" x 10" and are Horween Horsehide. I offer them in either smooth or roughout veg tanned or any combination of those you like.

I like the roughout for more coarse grits of stick type (wax based) or thick paste abrasive compounds and the smooth for finer grits of emulsions, sprays or liquids.

I find a solvent or water-based contact cement the best to hold the leather, but a carpenter's glue would also work but a bit slipperier to try and line up.

I can also stamp a "sequence" number, 1, 2, 3 or 4 on one end of each leather blank to help you keep track of which surface has each grit of abrasive, ie. #1 coarse, #2 medium, etc....

A Mennonite farming/woodworking family turns the rough paddle blanks for me and I cut them to length and finish them and supply the leather pre-cut for each paddle.



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Tony, Tony, Tony where were you last week before I bought a paddle strop and now I'm going to have to buy another? These are beauties and being genuine Tony Millers, I must have one. I'll contemplate the configuration and place an order in a week or two. I like paddle strops for knife honing and touch up.

Steve
 

Tony Miller

Speaking of horse butts…
Tony, Tony, Tony where were you last week before I bought a paddle strop and now I'm going to have to buy another? These are beauties and being genuine Tony Millers, I must have one. I'll contemplate the configuration and place an order in a week or two. I like paddle strops for knife honing and touch up.

Steve
Glad you like the design. I made the handle design myself many years ago and had an Amish friend turn a bunch in maple. He added the incised ring details which i though added to the look. His family went on to a different business now and sent me to another family which turns them from white oak and supplies me with the rough blanks when they are not busy farming. I cut them to length and apply the finish. So, not totally a Tony Miller paddle but partly done by other families who all take pride in their work.
 
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