Just can't seem to get there

[Bundy71]

I posted a couple weeks ago in the DE Razor board about my start into DE shaving. I thought I had a good pairing/kit going because of one really good, irritation free shave, so I stuck with it:

Pre-shave: Proraso White (have also tried Cube 2.0 on last two shaves with same results)
Soap: TOBS Sandalwood
Razor: Merkur 34C
Blade: Voskhod
Post shave: Alum, Nivea Sensitive and/or Duke Cannon

I just can't seem to get this right after about 8, 3 pass shaves, with only one that was completely successful (DFS, bordering on BBS without irritation). I thought I had the technique down with regard to angle/pressure, but I keep ending up red and irritated. I still think it's technique issues as the irritation varies shave to shave (neck one shave, cheeks another, jawline another, etc.).

I notice that I have to go over some spots multiple times to get a clean shave, and also notice tugging even with a new and second use blade. Would a sharper blade maybe make my life easier? Is it the multiple passes that are causing the irritation where a sharper blade would cut cleaner? Thinking about trying a Gillette Platinum instead of the Voskhod. I tried the Astra SP before the Voskhod with worse results.

tl;dr: Will a sharper blade cause less irritation?

 

[Multum in parvo]

Have you mapped your beard already?

 

[Bundy71]

Have you mapped your beard already?

I have. The frustrating part is how inconsistent the irritation is as far as location. If it were ATG that consistently caused it I could correct the problem by not going ATG. That's what makes me think technique, but is it bad technique or the fact that the blade isn't sharp enough, requiring multiple passes? And, obviously, multiple passes opens up the possibility of one of them to be bad technique.

 

[Samon]

It might be the blade choice. I've only had one decent shave from voshkods and I've tried a pack of their blades now. Always worth trying other blades and you can easily find out a top 10 recommend range.

One thing that not many people mention though regarding random irritation after a shave is actually the your lathering. You might be the type who's skin is made very sensitive from copious lathering (over exfoliating) and any type of blade after that will have you sore and unhappy. Skip your shave for a day or two so your face can get back to normal and next shave try using a bowl to whip up your lather and simply paint it on with the brush from left to right, no scrubbing or anything aggressive.

 

[lurchbrian]

i found when i started with the mild razor and some mid range blades that i was getting a fair bit of iratation due to what i would say was me unknowingly using extra preasure so after about a month i moved to a sharper blade and whooo who what a change . at the time i was using a wilkinson sword classic and derby extras went to gillette salon pack from india a smoother sharper blade . but its one of the balancing acts as sharp dosen't always mean agressive . im now using a rockwell 6s on plate 4 and many differant blades .

 

[Contact_vs_Feedback]

Although not scientifically proven, but if it's irritation that is causing the problem, then maybe give a chance to hot or cold water splash.
If you are using warm water splash, then switch to cold/ normal temperature water for before, during and after the shave usage and vice versa.

I was getting closer shaves with warm water, but skin was irritated. So, I switched to cold water and even during winters, there is improvement.

Other than this, maybe try to ride the head of razor (minimum contact with the blade guard, more on the head plate and blade of razor).

 

[Multum in parvo]

Gillette Platinum (dark blue,white, silver) or Gillette Silver Blues are sharp and smooth blades, so yes this could change things.

I don’t use my 34c that often anymore but for me it has a quite narrow range where it cuts efficiently. Can you keep up a constant angle moving between passes?

 

[TinyT]

Would a sharper blade maybe make my life easier?

Not sharper, just different. You simply need to find the right blade for your skin and hair type. Try a sampler pack or you can get single blades from tryablade.com.

My first 7 or 8 shaves with similar kit to yours and a Shark blade were pretty awful. One shave with a Gillette 7 O'Clock green and the misery went away. Using the right blade is the most important factor in getting a good shave.

 

[Bundy71]

Thanks fellas. I'm going to try your tips to see what happens, starting by changing one at a time. I'll start with just a blade change from Voskhod to Gillette Platinum. Depending on results, I'll try changing lathering process, then, if all else fails, I'll try the cold water shave (I always do a cold rinse, but I hate cold!). Also, already tried riding the head instead of the guard, but that was after already sensing irritation in an area that need touchup, but will try that for an entire shave.

 

[Bundy71]

Gillette Platinum (dark blue,white, silver) or Gillette Silver Blues are sharp and smooth blades, so yes this could change things.

I don’t use my 34c that often anymore but for me it has a quite narrow range where it cuts efficiently. Can you keep up a constant angle moving between passes?

Good to hear on the GP blade. I have a sample and from what I can tell, that's the next step up in sharpness. I'm finding the same with the 34C. If I don't hold it just right on a pass, I won't even clear most of the lather much less beard.

 

[Bundy71]

Not sharper, just different. You simply need to find the right blade for your skin and hair type. Try a sampler pack or you can get single blades from tryablade.com.

My first 7 or 8 shaves with similar kit to yours and a Shark blade were pretty awful. One shave with a Gillette 7 O'Clock green and the misery went away. Using the right blade is the most important factor in getting a good shave.

Thanks. I have a sampler and I'm slowly working my way up from mildest to sharpest (so far: Derby Extra, Astra SP, Voskhod).

 

[Multum in parvo]

Well it is sage advise to get ONE kit and stay with it until you have your technique established.

The 34c is a solid but mild performer. I can achieve BBS with it but it is more work than with other DE‘s.

If you look further down the road for another DE have a look at Fatip Lo Storto Open Comb Slant. It looks scary but it is smooth and efficient. In the DE section is a 108 page thread on it.

Price is good as well.

 

[TinyT]

Thanks. I have a sampler and I'm slowly working my way up from mildest to sharpest (so far: Derby Extra, Astra SP, Voskhod).

Remember to have fun! The next step in finding a comfortable shave is the razor head. Rigid designs work well. Look at the way the blade is clamped by the various different designs. You'll see lots of clones of the 34C, DE89 with a curved blade and clamping on the baseplate quite a way fromthe blade edge. Then some, like Fatips, Gillette Techs, Old types, New SC etc with clamping closer to the blade edge. A blade sandwich is what you're looking for when it comes to providing rigidity. As technique improves you'll most likely find you can shave with anything (blades excluded).

 

[Barbarian80]

I would try a long hot shower. Make sure the water hits your face and neck. Come out and get right to lathering up. If that doesn't help then i would troubleshoot with a new blade type.

 

[Mitzie]

Barbers firstly concentrate on exfoliation. I press a hot flannel against my stubble before all passes. I also have found massaging a little facial scrub into the stubble helps. Then shave with baby or body lotion to minimize irritation. -You can always adjust you regime and choice of products once you start getting optimum shaves

 

[Bundy71]

Well it is sage advise to get ONE kit and stay with it until you have your technique established.

The 34c is a solid but mild performer. I can achieve BBS with it but it is more work than with other DE‘s.

If you look further down the road for another DE have a look at Fatip Lo Storto Open Comb Slant. It looks scary but it is smooth and efficient. In the DE section is a 108 page thread on it.

Price is good as well.
View attachment 1211883

Already had my eye on that. The slant does scare me a bit, but I want to find the holy grail of efficient and smooth...is that too much to ask!!?

 

[Bundy71]

Remember to have fun! The next step in finding a comfortable shave is the razor head. Rigid designs work well. Look at the way the blade is clamped by the various different designs. You'll see lots of clones of the 34C, DE89 with a curved blade and clamping on the baseplate quite a way fromthe blade edge. Then some, like Fatips, Gillette Techs, Old types, New SC etc with clamping closer to the blade edge. A blade sandwich is what you're looking for when it comes to providing rigidity. As technique improves you'll most likely find you can shave with anything (blades excluded).

I have the mother of all close to edge clampers: Henson AL13. I like it, but it's not very efficient and the light weight will take some getting used to. Is blade chatter what edge clamping is trying to resolve?

 

[Bundy71]

I would try a long hot shower. Make sure the water hits your face and neck. Come out and get right to lathering up. If that doesn't help then i would troubleshoot with a new blade type.

I do that every time (except once!).

 

[Multum in parvo]

Already had my eye on that. The slant does scare me a bit, but I want to find the holy grail of efficient and smooth...is that too much to ask!!?

Absolutely not! That’s why most of us are here anyway

 

[Bundy71]

Barbers firstly concentrate on exfoliation. I press a hot flannel against my stubble before all passes. I also have found massaging a little facial scrub into the stubble helps. Then shave with baby or body lotion to minimize irritation. -You can always adjust you regime and choice of products once you start getting optimum shaves

I actually tried some exfoliating soap before one shave (Dove for men). It actually may have been my one good shave. I'll try that again. Thanks!