Whatever. Mine works great and I’ll keep using it. Fantastic soap IMHO.
I honestly think there are bad batches of MWF floating around and some people just get the bad end of it. Some people lather it so easily but others have so much trouble... I think I'll just accept the loss and move on.THIS!!! This is exactly what mine looks like. I have tried palm and bowl lathering - nothing but an airy mess. I worked it one day for over 20 mins and never could get rid of the airyness and bubbles.
I got that shave this evening. I loaded exactly like you said, with one addition. I used the protolather created while loading as a preshave. I worked it in until it disappeared, which didn’t take much. I then painted and wet just like you said. When the painting didn’t seem to make any further difference I added more water. I’m guessing that I probably dipped the tips 8 or 9 times. I didn’t test the slickness, before shaving I just decided it was as good as it was going to get.I wouldn't add water while loading. Add it later. You're supposed to be trying to abrade the soap from the puck, and adding water when loading will lubricate things, and collect less soap. Start with a fairly dry brush. Don't just shake the "excess" out, give the bristles a light squeeze. Damp? Yes. Wet? No. You just want to collects a soapy paste at this stage.
Ignore the bowl. Paint that paste directly onto your face. This is basically like you've used a shave stick on your face, but with more soap. It will be dry, and nothing like the lather you expect.
Dip the tips, and only the tips, and paint that water on top of the paste. When the two have incorporated, and what's on the brush is the same as what's on the face, dip the tips again, and paint again. Remember that abrasion you were doing to get soap off the puck? You don't want to be doing that now, you'll make your face sore again. I did that once with MdC. It wasn't fun!
Just paint.
After some dipping and painting, it will start becoming more lather like. Don't be too concerned about what it looks like at this stage though. Instead, just run your fingertip on your face to see how slippery it is, then repeat the dip and paint to keep adding water and get it more slippery. Once it feels nice and slick, you can do a little bit of gentle circular work to work it into the stubble. Personally, I think you can overwork Mitchell's and just end up with a big meringue on your face. Again, ignore looks, just gently work on the slipperiness.
When you think you've got it slippery enough, just go for one more dip and paint. You might go past what you think if the right richness of lather towards something slightly wetter. If you want, just take one or two short test strokes with the razor, then add more water and try again. Ignore what it looks like, just understand what it feels/performs like at each visual stage.
All the while, do not attempt to make it look like you think it should look. Assume it will look different, but that you don't yet know how it should really look. Just go for the slipperiness on the face, and then see what it actually looks like when it performs well. When you get that great first shave with it, you'll see what you should have been trying to achieve, and what to aim for next time.
LOL, Release the Kraken!
I’m guessing that your puck was flat and featureless when it was unwrapped? I see other pucks with a rough textured surface right out of the wrapper. I’m becoming convinced that my puck was exposed to heat and partially melted and then reformed. I’m wondering what effect heating MWF might have on the puck?I know it's been soaking but here is a picture of the puck. Sorry I couldn't get one before
View attachment 1099249
I’m guessing that your puck was flat and featureless when it was unwrapped? I see other pucks with a rough textured surface right out of the wrapper. I’m becoming convinced that my puck was exposed to heat and partially melted and then reformed. I’m wondering what effect heating MWF might have on the puck?
No wrinkles or signs of heat damage and I live in Florida... It would have to be HOTI’m guessing that your puck was flat and featureless when it was unwrapped? I see other pucks with a rough textured surface right out of the wrapper. I’m becoming convinced that my puck was exposed to heat and partially melted and then reformed. I’m wondering what effect heating MWF might have on the puck?
I’m including a photo of the brush just before I painted it on for the first pass. View attachment 1099268
No, that’s after bowl lathering for several minutes. Right off the puck it looks like paste.That's just from loading off the puck? If so, try squeezing more moisture out of the bristles before loading. The method I described should give you more of a paste, thicker than paint, and you won't get all the bubbly stuff off the puck. When you paint on that thick dry paste, and start painting water into it, it might froth up a bit, but you should be able to start incorporating the water better.
Here is my puck, grated into its own bowl
View attachment 1099311
Badger soaked 10 minutes in warm water, 5 minutes of loading steady, firm and pretty slow from a dry puck. Very wet brush, like used in Marco's method.
View attachment 1099312
Before swirling
View attachment 1099313
After 10 minutes of steady, slow swirling motion. No mashing, no whipping, just steady slow round swirling motion. During that time, added five times about 3-5 drops of water. Ready for a shave.
View attachment 1099314
After passes, had to swirl about 20 seconds slowly again otherwise began to form kinda thin and foamy lather into bowl. Also when painted into face at the first place, dipped brush tips into water few times as felt kinda dry in my face and thick, needed more slickness so added enough that slickness was there but was not thinning out. You can really feel that in your face with MWF when you are good to go.
Nice. I guess my result was that when I added water towards the end, it thinned out unlike yours. Just a bit strange for me how two pucks act differently.Here is my puck, grated into its own bowl
View attachment 1099311
Badger soaked 10 minutes in warm water, 5 minutes of loading steady, firm and pretty slow from a dry puck. Very wet brush, like used in Marco's method.
View attachment 1099312
Before swirling
View attachment 1099313
After 10 minutes of steady, slow swirling motion. No mashing, no whipping, just steady slow round swirling motion. During that time, added five times about 3-5 drops of water. Ready for a shave.
View attachment 1099314
After passes, had to swirl about 20 seconds slowly again otherwise began to form kinda thin and foamy lather into bowl. Also when painted into face at the first place, dipped brush tips into water few times as felt kinda dry in my face and thick, needed more slickness so added water enough that slickness was there but was not thinning out. You can really feel that in your face with MWF when you are good to go.
5 minutes to load.....10 more to lather.....
If I can't do it all in less than 1 minute, I don't even bother!
When I used the Fat I never loaded for more than a minute and spent maybe 30 seconds tops face-lathering it. Really makes me wonder if they have some serious QC issues going on. The Fat is a pain but not THAT much of a pain sheesh!
Good news, a buddy from another forum decided to send me a sample of his working-perfectly-fine MWF. I'll be able to compare mine to his and make a better conclusion. Let's see how it goes.