What's the bare minimum? I'm moving from DE to straights. I have a Parker shavette, plenty of soaps, creams, brushes, etc. Just break some DE blades in half and jump in? I've seen a few great youtube vids on straights.
What do I need to get started?
- Thread starter Odysseus
- Start date
As a bare minimum you would need the following. This basic setup could actually keep you going indefinitely.
1. Shave ready razor (prepared without tape)
2. Leather hanging strop
3. Diamond pasted balsa strop (for sharpening)
It’s always good to check BST for deals on razors. If nothing’s available you could post a WTB add. Most people here will have a spare razor or two they can send to someone that’s starting out. I would have a lot more confidence buying a shave ready razor from a forum member than an online retailer.
You can add to this kit incrementally if you feel the need to branch out. Shavettes are a different beast entirely and from what I gather they can be a rather unforgiving and cruel teacher. Particularly the half DE variety with sharp corners and short, flimsy blades. Best to give them a miss.
If you provide your location, people maybe able to recommend some local retailers.
1. Shave ready razor (prepared without tape)
2. Leather hanging strop
3. Diamond pasted balsa strop (for sharpening)
It’s always good to check BST for deals on razors. If nothing’s available you could post a WTB add. Most people here will have a spare razor or two they can send to someone that’s starting out. I would have a lot more confidence buying a shave ready razor from a forum member than an online retailer.
You can add to this kit incrementally if you feel the need to branch out. Shavettes are a different beast entirely and from what I gather they can be a rather unforgiving and cruel teacher. Particularly the half DE variety with sharp corners and short, flimsy blades. Best to give them a miss.
If you provide your location, people maybe able to recommend some local retailers.
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Shave ready razor, something to use as a strop (it could be as simple as a nice strip of leather on the edge of a table, but a basic real strop would be better, and something to touch up the edge. That could be pasted balsa, as said above, but it might be some sort of finishing hone. Depends on what you might have access to. Recently I fixed up an old slate hone which is perfect for razor touchups, and it cost me nothing except a bit of time. Also, if you decide SR shaving is not for you, you can probably sell on a used hone for what you paid, so it is either a lifetime investment or a risk free purchase.
So razor ~$50, basic strop $30ish, basic hone or CrOx balsa on a surface, under $20. You should have enough to shave for as long as you like for about $100, until you start coveting upgrades.
So razor ~$50, basic strop $30ish, basic hone or CrOx balsa on a surface, under $20. You should have enough to shave for as long as you like for about $100, until you start coveting upgrades.
Ron R
I survived a lathey foreman
This is what I recommend to start with and the guarded blade is very good and sharp. The guarded blade helps prevent the blade from digging in and the glide is superior also.
I practiced with just a normal blade reversed in the holder to get accustomed to the way hold it and let the scrapping audio with the blade not cutting anything until my Kai Protouch blades arrived. The blades make a big difference and more enjoyable shave for myself.
Have some great shaves!
I practiced with just a normal blade reversed in the holder to get accustomed to the way hold it and let the scrapping audio with the blade not cutting anything until my Kai Protouch blades arrived. The blades make a big difference and more enjoyable shave for myself.
Have some great shaves!
Is OP inquiring about straights or shavettes?
If you're referring to the Parker shavette, uh... yeah, that's kind of "it". Go slow, mind your angle.
If you're referring to the Parker shavette, uh... yeah, that's kind of "it". Go slow, mind your angle.
IMO, if you are using a shavette you might as well stick with a DE. To me the attraction of using a SR is the DIY maintenance of them, and the fact there are no consumables. I've never gotten the point of the disposable blade versions.
My experience with shavettes and my FAC found a new approach and technique to shaving to explore without investing time and money into honing. I have found it to be rewarding on those levels.
Also, are soaps/creams not considered consumables?
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
@Odysseus, there is a free (PIF) very basic traditional SR starter's kit available here:
www.badgerandblade.com
In answer to your original post, as a bare minimum you need:
GIVEAWAY! - Straight Razor Starter's Kit (postage only) - Shave-Ready
Note: Excluding members resident in USA, Canada, Slovakia, Brazil and Australia unless there are no valid entries by 2359 UTC Friday 03 February 2023. Then this PIF is open worldwide. With the kind benevolence of @Chard52142, I am able to offer a Titan ACRM-60 straight razor (SR) stater's kit...
www.badgerandblade.com
In answer to your original post, as a bare minimum you need:
- A truly shave-ready SR, honed by someone who is experienced in SR honing and shaves daily with SRs so that they know what shave-ready really is.
- A leather strop.
- Instructions on how to properly SR shave (don't believe everything you see and hear in YouTube).
I suppose, but that is an expense regardless of how you shave, unless it's electric.
I think the problem arrises where a newbie starts reading about all the expensive stuff us enthusiasts buy ourselves. Razors, hones and strops worth hundreds of dollars each, and it all seems a bit daunting.
But with guidance a newbie could buy a shave ready vintage razor and something to keep the edge going indefinitely for not much more than a disposable blade SR and a few packets of blades.
Reading the OP I assumed that was what the writer was chasing.
lasta
Blade Biter
How bare? Haha.
I've made do with a half DE shavette and bar soap...
For straights, a lapped garden slate and newspaper can get you there too!
I've made do with a half DE shavette and bar soap...
For straights, a lapped garden slate and newspaper can get you there too!
- Thread starter
- #11
Ok, so if I don't go with the shavette, I need:
- A truly shave-ready SR, honed by someone who is experienced in SR honing and shaves daily with SRs so that they know what shave-ready really is
- Any good places for one that's ready that won't break the bank?
- A leather strop - Ditto. Where to get this? How to use it?
- Instructions on how to properly SR shave - Love to get some
- Thread starter
- #13
That's a helpful olden book!
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
Knowing your location would help us advise you on where to get things done.
I have a few "extra" good inexpensive razors, and just sent you a PM.
To better understand the straight razor market, read the last six months of these threads:
www.badgerandblade.com
And search eBay for sold "straight razor", and look at the new and vintage straight razors on Griffith Shaving Goods.
To better understand the straight razor market, read the last six months of these threads:
Straight Razor Acquisition Thread
Okay, so I'm definitely not being original on this, totally taking Bigfoot's idea, but I love looking at the Safety Razor Acquisition Thread on the DE Subforum and I haven't been able to find one for straight razors. I'd love to see any Straights you've recently acquired (Pictures are a must)...
www.badgerandblade.com
And search eBay for sold "straight razor", and look at the new and vintage straight razors on Griffith Shaving Goods.
I started with the beginners straight razor from Razor Emporium and the beginners strop.
If it turns out you like SR shaving, then that razor becomes the one you practice sharping with. The strop you will probably cut up, and it will become unusable. In both cases, you will purchases a better SR and strop and move to the SR world proper. It takes 100 shaves to really transition
If it turns out you like SR shaving, then that razor becomes the one you practice sharping with. The strop you will probably cut up, and it will become unusable. In both cases, you will purchases a better SR and strop and move to the SR world proper. It takes 100 shaves to really transition
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Yup. You already got brush and soap, so just a shave ready razor and a decent hanging leather strop. That will hold you for a few weeks. Then you need a way to touch up or maintain the edge. A strop does not hone. Honing is the precise and controlled removal of steel, aimed at pushing the two bevel faces inward toward each other until they meet in a precise apex, and then further refining and polishing the bevel, which smooths the edge and improves shave comfort and cutting power. Stropping straightens out the dinged, dented, and folded over bits of steel at the fragile edge, restoring cutting ability and comfort. You strop before every shave. At some point, stropping no longer will bring the edge back, and the razor must then be honed, typically only on the finishing stone of your progression. The length of time or number of shaves before this is needed, varies with your razor, your facial hair texture and heaviness, and your shave technique. Beginners sometimes only get about 10 shaves before the razor needs a touchup. Experienced shavers usually go a month or more, and some guys have gone well beyond 100 shaves without honing.
One source of confusion is that we refer to a piece of balsa with some diamond paste on it as a balsa "strop", even though the main action of it is a honing action, due to the presence and reliance upon an abrasive, and even though the razor is always stroked with the spine leading, edge trailing, like on your leather strop. But in reality, yeah, a very small amount of steel is removed and so technically it is honing. Yeah, misleading, inconsistent, confusing. Deal with it.
Strops can be improvised in an emergency. Not having a leather strop is not an emergency. I would forego the use of phone book, newspaper, an old belt, etc as a strop. Just get one. Our main strop guy here is @Tony Miller and his work is good, and he stands behind his wares. See if he has anything suitable for a beginner. A "Rich Man" strop from Larry at www.whippeddog.com will get your hand in the game. Don't let the "Rich Man" bit discourage you. That is just in comparison to his extremely basic "Poor Man" strop. An Illinois strop is okay, a bit basic, but cheap. You will likely slice up your first strop while learning, so no point in shelling out $200 for a nice horse shell strop on which to make your newbie mistakes.. OTOH, don't bother with anything from Pakistan or China, either. You can also make one. A 3" wide strip of vegetable tanned cowhide leather about 36" long, two D rings from a saddle shop, and six Chicago screws are all you need to make a decent strop. Try McMaster - Carr for leather. Skip Tandy and similar craft shops. Their leather is crap, generally. If you slash it to bits, no biggie, just get more leather and replace it.
A progression of balsa strops, PROPERLY PREPARED AND USED, can keep your razor sharp forever. If you can't be bothered to do it right, you will get the same results that everyone else gets, which is to say, a band-aid and an aspirin approach instead of whole health care. See this thread, and read it all the way through before buying anything. (1) How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop | Badger & Blade
Next best thing is to figure on honing on a good finish stone every few weeks. The Naniwa 12k SuperStone is a good one. You will also need to lap it when you get it, and periodically thereafter, which is another topic. Lapping film can also be used, for a much cheaper entry point, and like the balsa thread, there is a lapping film thread that is required reading before buying stuff, or you will waste your time and money. (1) Lapping film, try it. | Badger & Blade
Again, you do not need to hone and do not need honing equipment right out the gate. Get your toes wet with just a shave ready razor, and a strop, first.
99% of all internet shave ready razors are not shave ready. Sellers have learned that buyers expect to see "shave ready" in the listing, so they put those two magic words in there even if they do not have a clue. NOBODY who does not shave HIS face every day with a straight razor should be trusted to hone yours, or to judge an edge to be shave ready. Disregard or disbelieve or discount, at your absolute iron clad, chiseled in stone, definite and certain peril. Exceptions are sellers in the Buy/Sell/Trade sub forums in established straight razor forums like this one. Reputations are at stake, and easily bruised with a long recovery time. If a member here places a listing in the BST forum here, and describes the razor as shave ready, yeah, it most likely is. There are a few trusted sellers on fleabay, and amazon. Check in here before you pull the trigger. You can mention a seller by name, or even post a link to a "Buy It Now", listing, just not to an active auction. Ended auctions, no problemo. Avoid Etsy, if you want my advice.
Honing your own razor is a thing. However, it is best to wait until you have experience shaving in the manly fashion, before trying to hone. Serious. Get a few successful shaves in, first, before you even think about it. Remember, you can always send it out to a forum member or someone known to the forum as a good honer.
(1) Is My Razor Sharp? The Treetopping Test | Badger & Blade
That is one sharpness test that is of some use in determining shave readiness. The REAL test is the shave test, but if you are not yet experienced at straight shaving, then it is pretty worthless. Another popular test is Hanging Hair Test - home of the famous Belgian Coticule Whetstone.
Good luck, and Happy Shaves!
One source of confusion is that we refer to a piece of balsa with some diamond paste on it as a balsa "strop", even though the main action of it is a honing action, due to the presence and reliance upon an abrasive, and even though the razor is always stroked with the spine leading, edge trailing, like on your leather strop. But in reality, yeah, a very small amount of steel is removed and so technically it is honing. Yeah, misleading, inconsistent, confusing. Deal with it.
Strops can be improvised in an emergency. Not having a leather strop is not an emergency. I would forego the use of phone book, newspaper, an old belt, etc as a strop. Just get one. Our main strop guy here is @Tony Miller and his work is good, and he stands behind his wares. See if he has anything suitable for a beginner. A "Rich Man" strop from Larry at www.whippeddog.com will get your hand in the game. Don't let the "Rich Man" bit discourage you. That is just in comparison to his extremely basic "Poor Man" strop. An Illinois strop is okay, a bit basic, but cheap. You will likely slice up your first strop while learning, so no point in shelling out $200 for a nice horse shell strop on which to make your newbie mistakes.. OTOH, don't bother with anything from Pakistan or China, either. You can also make one. A 3" wide strip of vegetable tanned cowhide leather about 36" long, two D rings from a saddle shop, and six Chicago screws are all you need to make a decent strop. Try McMaster - Carr for leather. Skip Tandy and similar craft shops. Their leather is crap, generally. If you slash it to bits, no biggie, just get more leather and replace it.
A progression of balsa strops, PROPERLY PREPARED AND USED, can keep your razor sharp forever. If you can't be bothered to do it right, you will get the same results that everyone else gets, which is to say, a band-aid and an aspirin approach instead of whole health care. See this thread, and read it all the way through before buying anything. (1) How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop | Badger & Blade
Next best thing is to figure on honing on a good finish stone every few weeks. The Naniwa 12k SuperStone is a good one. You will also need to lap it when you get it, and periodically thereafter, which is another topic. Lapping film can also be used, for a much cheaper entry point, and like the balsa thread, there is a lapping film thread that is required reading before buying stuff, or you will waste your time and money. (1) Lapping film, try it. | Badger & Blade
Again, you do not need to hone and do not need honing equipment right out the gate. Get your toes wet with just a shave ready razor, and a strop, first.
99% of all internet shave ready razors are not shave ready. Sellers have learned that buyers expect to see "shave ready" in the listing, so they put those two magic words in there even if they do not have a clue. NOBODY who does not shave HIS face every day with a straight razor should be trusted to hone yours, or to judge an edge to be shave ready. Disregard or disbelieve or discount, at your absolute iron clad, chiseled in stone, definite and certain peril. Exceptions are sellers in the Buy/Sell/Trade sub forums in established straight razor forums like this one. Reputations are at stake, and easily bruised with a long recovery time. If a member here places a listing in the BST forum here, and describes the razor as shave ready, yeah, it most likely is. There are a few trusted sellers on fleabay, and amazon. Check in here before you pull the trigger. You can mention a seller by name, or even post a link to a "Buy It Now", listing, just not to an active auction. Ended auctions, no problemo. Avoid Etsy, if you want my advice.
Honing your own razor is a thing. However, it is best to wait until you have experience shaving in the manly fashion, before trying to hone. Serious. Get a few successful shaves in, first, before you even think about it. Remember, you can always send it out to a forum member or someone known to the forum as a good honer.
(1) Is My Razor Sharp? The Treetopping Test | Badger & Blade
That is one sharpness test that is of some use in determining shave readiness. The REAL test is the shave test, but if you are not yet experienced at straight shaving, then it is pretty worthless. Another popular test is Hanging Hair Test - home of the famous Belgian Coticule Whetstone.
Good luck, and Happy Shaves!
- Thread starter
- #18
Thank you Slash, for the best advice I think I'm getting.
I like the Master Barber Magic Razor with the 1/2 DE Derby blades that are both available from Sally’s. I think it shaves a little better than the Parker IMO.
