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I have read many posts on natural stones but?

Legion

Staff member
Hit the local swap meets and antique shops, and just see what you can find for a good price, if you are not in a hurry. The amount of slates and true hard Arks that were sold back in the day, they do turn up fairly often if you look hard. Same with coticules really.

As you are new there will be an element of "pot luck" in the beginning, since the bargains are often dirty and can be hard to identify sometimes, but that is half the fun. And it is cool when you can find a $150, $200 stone hidden under the muck that you paid $20 for.

Whatever you find, learn to use that, until you find the next thing.
 
I started with synthetics, bought a China 12K ADAEE to learn on naturals on the cheap. Taught myself to hone on that first mystery stone. I just purchased a little JNat on here and it arrived the same time as my Black Ark.

I can tell you that I am glad I leaned on that ADAEE, it taught me feel and patience. But, nothing like a Jnat or Black Ark, glad I have both.
 
Hit the local swap meets and antique shops, and just see what you can find for a good price, if you are not in a hurry. The amount of slates and true hard Arks that were sold back in the day, they do turn up fairly often if you look hard. Same with coticules really.

As you are new there will be an element of "pot luck" in the beginning, since the bargains are often dirty and can be hard to identify sometimes, but that is half the fun. And it is cool when you can find a $150, $200 stone hidden under the muck that you paid $20 for.

Whatever you find, learn to use that, until you find the next thing.
actually, I picked up a stone that was with a lot. most were junk and they were all covered with grease and grim. I lapped the ones that I thought could be good. I have an old stone that I don't know what it is. it a color that I had never seen before, brown with light swirls. I wonder if I lap it with a high grit if it is anything good. I will have to send a picture when I have time. As is lapped with 220 grit, I can cut paper on my knives with it after I hone it. It is hard. I would bite my hat if it could be a finisher.
 

Legion

Staff member
actually, I picked up a stone that was with a lot. most were junk and they were all covered with grease and grim. I lapped the ones that I thought could be good. I have an old stone that I don't know what it is. it a color that I had never seen before, brown with light swirls. I wonder if I lap it with a high grit if it is anything good. I will have to send a picture when I have time. As is lapped with 220 grit, I can cut paper on my knives with it after I hone it. It is hard. I would bite my hat if it could be a finisher.
Post a pic in the mystery hone thread. We'll probably be able to identify it and tell you.
 
@papi Here too please?
thanks for the tip on the paste. I have been told that paste may be the answer for me for a while along with stropping well.
here is a picture of a stone that I found in a pile of old nasty-looking oil stones. It was long before I started learning how to hone a straight razor. I lapped it with water and silicone carbide powder at 220 for and it took the grime off. I can hone knives on it right now.
 

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thanks for the tip on the paste. I have been told that paste may be the answer for me for a while along with stropping well.
here is a picture of a stone that I found in a pile of old nasty-looking oil stones. It was long before I started learning how to hone a straight razor. I lapped it with water and silicone carbide powder at 220 for and it took the grime off. I can hone knives on it right now.
Your welcome. It takes about 40 passes on fresh honed blade using denim. Its slow but good.
As for the stone I’m stumped.
 
thanks for the tip on the paste. I have been told that paste may be the answer for me for a while along with stropping well.
here is a picture of a stone that I found in a pile of old nasty-looking oil stones. It was long before I started learning how to hone a straight razor. I lapped it with water and silicone carbide powder at 220 for and it took the grime off. I can hone knives on it right now.
Post stone more pictures from different angles under bright light. I'd guess, from that one bad picture, that's it's either a pdso(never tried one) or a really good coticule. What are the dimensions? What do the really messed up parts look like?
 
the measurements are 8 x 2 x 1/2 and the only part damaged is the end on one side the one picture is of the good side with no damage with less swirls in the color

This stone was used a great deal due to the grime that was on it. It did not dish or distort at all. I would guess that it was used for at least 30 years in a heavy-working shop. I actually took a picture of it before I cleaned it. it was black.

when I lapped it with 220 grit, I only took the grime off it. When I hone my knives, it does not act like the Arkansas fine stone I have. it cuts fast for hard steel when I use water on it only.

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Post stone more pictures from different angles under bright light. I'd guess, from that one bad picture, that's it's either a pdso(never tried one) or a really good coticule. What are the dimensions? What do the really messed up parts look like?
That's the best I could do right now on the pictures. thanks for the interest.
 
Might be a dirty hard Ark.

Have you tried soaking it in simple green or similar?
No, I haven't used any soap on it, but I was lapping it for a while to get it looking like it is. It's interesting but no way to tell how hard it is for me as of yet.
 

Legion

Staff member
No, I haven't used any soap on it, but I was lapping it for a while to get it looking like it is. It's interesting but no way to tell how hard it is for me as of yet.
Simple Green is a degreaser rather than a soap. If a stone has soaked in old oil it will tend to draw it out. The chips on the end of your stone look like novaculite to me. Soaking in SG should return it closer to it’s original colour, so it will be easier to ID.

It might also be something like a Hindostan. Are there layers or lines on the sides?
 
Looks like a hindo or similar sandstone to me. Maybe an india; side view could help.

Closest natural I've had to its surface looks was what I thought at the TIME was a Dalmore yellow... because it was yellow; but honestly never knew for sure the correct ID. It looked somewhere between a Hindo and a PDSO, but was in the 2k grit ballpark and sparkly.

Can tell from here it isn't a razor finisher though... Maybe around 4k Mesh/Norton... definitely not one you'd want to shave off.
 
Simple Green is a degreaser rather than a soap. If a stone has soaked in old oil it will tend to draw it out. The chips on the end of your stone look like novaculite to me. Soaking in SG should return it closer to it’s original colour, so it will be easier to ID.

It might also be something like a Hindostan. Are there layers or lines on the sides?
yes, it has layers, never noticed that. ScliceOfLife and you both think it could be a Hindostan.
It is a nice cutting stone with water as is. It has kept its flatness for all the years. thanks
 
Don’t know what the stone is or grit. Hone the razor to 12k, should be near mirror bevel, then see if the brown stone can improve the edge.

If not, it is not a finisher. Not many naturals can improve a good 12k edge. Lots of naturals can produce a shaving edge, few that rival an Ark or Jnat for keenness and comfort.
Would I need to lap this stone in a progression of grits and wet sandpapers to make a very smooth flat glass-like surface surface before I do that?
Most importantly if I were to pick up a translucent or a surgical black would I have to do the same?
funny you suggest what you have.
What I recently did this morning.
I have an old vintage razor hone that is synthetic. I have had it for many years sitting in a collection of oil stones of mine. It's only maybe 4 inches by 3 inches and is smooth as can be by touch.
I ran a junk razor that is finished with a Shapton Pro 12K stone over the vintage hone using oil. It improved the edge. I tried shaving with it dry and it cut. It really is a bad razor, but I experiment with it.

yes, I am new to straight razor honing, but I have been in the trades for over 40 years working with oil stones for the tools that I used to make a living. I have sharpened the best of knives for many years.

I have to stick my neck out and say that the Shapton Pro 12k does not leave a great edge on a straight razor. It refines any scratch pattern of previous stones and polishes nice but the edge is not great for shaving. I have tried everything with that stone over and over.

This is why I am asking about picking up a natural stone to get a better edge. Then I can see using compounds and paste to improve and to maintain, and then using a clean leather strop.

If I know what I need to do to prepare an Arkansas stone properly, I will pick one up. They are reasonable in price.
I think the question I asked you about preparing a natural stone, is most important for my progress.
thanks if you can give a simple answer. In my eyes flattening a synthetic is a piece of cake, but I never touched a natural stone before. I have no idea and finding this information online is not easy. There is too much to screen through. If you reply Please be brief, I can pick up on the points very well. I hope no one minds this long reply.
Everything is much appreciated, thanks.
 
I’ve been shaving well by going up to a polishing compound on a rigid surface and do two or three dozen strokes on a black Arkansas stone. Great results for sure.

If I buy Arkansas stones from Dan’s I generally don’t flatten them beyond factory.

You really do have to dress the corners of the stones a good bit with either a diamond plate, sandpaper, or a combination of the two but I don’t try to flatten them out any further.

Then I will take a razor I don’t care about and just run it across the surface for 20 minutes at least.

You can also go up to 400-600 wet dry sandpaper as well. But again I don’t attempt any additional flattening.
 
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I use a large variety of vintage and new SRs. I restore and maintain them myself. I started out with a tght progression of films.

Just to toss in yet another approach: I now bevel set and hone on synthetic Superstones to Naniwa 12k, then finish on a pasted diamond (Tech Diamond Tools paste) balsa strop progression (50k/0.5u > 100k/0.25u > 200k/0.1u).

I follow this with stropping on clean fabric and leather before shaving, and regret it if I neglect to strop on leather.

I am starting to explore using naturals just for curiosity sake. I am completely happy with my current edges. I have also experienced a wide variety of natural edges from other B&B members. They were in most cases excellent edges, but not revelatory.

I have to stick my neck out and say that the Shapton Pro 12k does not leave a great edge on a straight razor. It refines any scratch pattern of previous stones and polishes nice but the edge is not great for shaving. I have tried everything with that stone over and over.

So pasted balsa may get you where you want to be after the Shapton. Easy and inexpensive solution for me, but the hobby aspects of finishing are sucking me and my wallet into naturals.
 
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