Bloody Straights! A journal.

[cameraflier]

No matter what I do I usually need 4 passes....

Same here. Occasonally I get lucky, but 4 is my standard and I've accepted it for now. Sharper blade, better products, more skill, more overlapping strokes.... there is a magic formula in there somewhere. I'm ok wandering down the path.

Congrats on #100. Presumably you still have both ears, ten fingers, and your other scars will heal nicely. Well done, and thanks for the journal.

 

[noahpictures]

Lol. I know what you mean. I'm saving up for a coti but then bought the BD then just bought a puck of QCS Cayman. I'll never get that coti at this rate.

By the way....I'm still loving my BD strop.

I used to own one the first time I tried straights a couple of years ago.

Same here. Occasonally I get lucky, but 4 is my standard and I've accepted it for now. Sharper blade, better products, more skill, more overlapping strokes.... there is a magic formula in there somewhere. I'm ok wandering down the path.

Congrats on #100. Presumably you still have both ears, ten fingers, and your other scars will heal nicely. Well done, and thanks for the journal.

Thanks. When I shave with a DE I shave in 3-4 passes. I am beginning to accept that I'll always need four passes when using straights.

 

[noahpictures]

SHAVE 102 - Clauss 13/16 full hollow
Date Honed: April 2012 by me
Hanging Hair Test: HHT3 (catch & pop)
Edge Magnified: Smooth
Leather Strop (Pre, Post shave): 50, 20

Closeness: 9.5 (DFS)
Comfort: 10

Lather: 9 (a bit weak)
Durability: N/A
Feedback: 10
Enjoyment: 10
Time: N/A
Pre: glycerin
SS/SC: TOBS Avocado
AS: Thayers Witch Hazel (Unscented/Alcohol Free)/Nivea/Rose of Bulgaria

Used glycerin for pre-shave instead of pre-shave oil.

FIRST PASS (WTG): Focused on not over shaving by repeatedly going over the same area.

SECOND PASS (XTG): Kept the skin taut, light pressure, shallow angle.

THIRD PASS (XTG/ATG): No nicks

FOURTH PASS (ATG): No nicks.

I expected the shave to be slightly uncomfortable because I didn't use pre-shave oil but surprisingly it wasn't. Maybe the anticipation caused me to focus on good technique. At this point I am not sure if using glycerin as a pre-shave is better than using shaving oil.

 

[noahpictures]

Shaves 103-106 were DFS with an average comfort rating of 9-9.5.

SHAVE 107 - Filarmonica 13 DT, hollow (old)
Date Honed: May 2012 by me
Hanging Hair Test: HHT3 (catch & pop)
Edge Magnified: Smooth
Leather Strop (Pre, Post shave): 50, 20

Closeness: 10
Comfort: 10

Lather: 9 (a bit weak)
Durability: N/A
Feedback: 10
Enjoyment: 10
Time: N/A
Pre: Lavender pre-shave oil (homemade)
SS/SC: Proraso cream
AS: Thayers Witch Hazel (Unscented/Alcohol Free)/Nivea/Rose of Bulgaria

Yesterday I used the same razor but I used glycerin as a pre-shave with mediocre results. Today I used pre-shave oil and the results were great. So far pre-shave oil goes well with hollow razors. Glycerin with wedge and near wedge razors. If I use pre-shave oil with wedges, the shaves aren't that close.

FIRST PASS (North to South): Still trying to find the best way to reduce beard.

SECOND PASS (Diagonal north to south): Good beard reduction.

THIRD PASS (Ear to nose): Basically XTG.

FOURTH PASS (ATG): Re-applied shaving oil before the last pass. I didn't do South to North because I knew I would not get a close shave.

Great comfortable shave.

 

[Grips]

Can I ask what your secret brew is for your shave oil ? I used to use eshave's but haven't used oil in months.

 

[noahpictures]

Can I ask what your secret brew is for your shave oil ? I used to use eshave's but haven't used oil in months.

1.3 parts castor oil, 1 part virgin olive oil, at least two drops of essential lavender oil (more drops depending on how much you make). Supposedly this formula comes close to the AOS pre-shave oil. I like it much better than Shave Secret shaving oil that I was using. It protects better and my face feels more healthy and moisturized. Oddly I don't like using shaving oil when I use a DE but I digress.

 

[noahpictures]

SHAVE 108 - Filarmonica 13 DT, hollow (old)
Date Honed: May 2012 by me
Hanging Hair Test: HHT3 (catch & pop)
Edge Magnified: Smooth
Leather Strop (Pre, Post shave): 50, 20

Closeness: 10
Comfort: 10

Lather: 10
Durability: N/A
Feedback: 10
Enjoyment: 10
Time: N/A
Pre: Lavender pre-shave oil (homemade)
SS/SC: Proraso cream plus a few drops of glycerin
AS: Thayers Witch Hazel (Unscented/Alcohol Free)/Nivea/Rose of Bulgaria

Slicker lather was nice and the shave felt easier, otherwise very similar to yesterday's shave. Menthol cream was invigorating.

FIRST PASS (North to South): Still trying to find the best way to reduce beard. Good form (skin taut, light pressure, shallow angle, short efficient strokes, shaved both sides of face the same way).

SECOND PASS (Diagonal north to south): Good beard reduction. Used too much pressure at times.

THIRD PASS (Ear to nose): Basically XTG. Unlike yesterday I re-applied shaving oil before the third pass. Tried longer strokes. Not bad but I felt I missed some whiskers.

FOURTH PASS (ATG plus touch up): I didn't do South to North because I knew I would not get a close shave.

Comfortable, close shave. My first 14 razor arrived. It is like new with zero hone wear. I can't wait to hone and shave with it, hopefully tomorrow.

 

[Grips]

1.3 parts castor oil, 1 part virgin olive oil, at least two drops of essential lavender oil (more drops depending on how much you make). Supposedly this formula comes close to the AOS pre-shave oil. I like it much better than Shave Secret shaving oil that I was using. It protects better and my face feels more healthy and moisturized. Oddly I don't like using shaving oil when I use a DE but I digress.

Thanks Noah, appreciated !

 

[noahpictures]

Thanks Noah, appreciated !

If you have the proper bottle/container, it will take seconds to make. Just pour and mix.

 

[noahpictures]

SHAVE 109 - W&B Celebrated Hollow Ground (1/4 hollow)
Date Honed: April 2012 by me
Hanging Hair Test: HHT3 (catch & pop)
Edge Magnified: Smooth
Leather Strop (Pre, Post shave): 50, 20

Closeness: 10
Comfort: 10

Lather: 10
Durability: N/A
Feedback: 10
Enjoyment: 10
Time: N/A
Pre: Lavender pre-shave oil (homemade)
SS/SC: Proraso cream plus a few drops of glycerin
AS: Thayers Witch Hazel (Unscented/Alcohol Free)/Nivea

I didn't get to hone any razors today. Maybe tomorrow.

FIRST PASS (North to South): Good form (skin taut, light pressure, shallow angle, short efficient strokes, shaved both sides of face the same way).
SECOND PASS (Diagonal north to south): Good beard reduction.
THIRD PASS (Ear to nose): XTG above the jawline, ATG/XTG below the jawline.
FOURTH PASS (ATG): No nicks.

Great comfortable shave. Love the weight, balance, heavy audible feedback of the razor.

 

[erudolph]

You crossed the 100 equator a few shaves back. But I bet you were comfortable with this shaving some time before that.

 

[noahpictures]

You crossed the 100 equator a few shaves back. But I bet you were comfortable with this shaving some time before that.

Well...kind of. Becoming comfortable with the razor takes about 90 shaves. I am still working on being consistent, efficient beard reduction and maintaining the proper edge. The key is to enjoy the process and not rush it because that will take the fun out of it very quickly. Hopefully around six months I'll be as proficient with straights as I am with DE and SE razors.

 

[noahpictures]

One of the simple joys of life is shaving a two day beard with a straight razor I honed myself. Today shaved with Taylor Eye Witness The 1000, half hollow. After almost a hundred straights I haven't found a half hollow razor that didn't shave well.

 

[Tkocloser]

One of the simple joys of life is shaving a two day beard with a straight razor I honed myself. Today shaved with Taylor Eye Witness The 1000, half hollow. After almost a hundred straights I haven't found a half hollow razor that didn't shave well.

+1 sounds amazing Noah

 

[Grips]

One of the simple joys of life is shaving a two day beard with a straight razor I honed myself. Today shaved with Taylor Eye Witness The 1000, half hollow. After almost a hundred straights I haven't found a half hollow razor that didn't shave well.

I agree Noah. It is a simple pleasure to shave of off an edge you put on a razor. Glad to see you posting here again.

 

[noahpictures]

+1 sounds amazing Noah

I agree Noah. It is a simple pleasure to shave of off an edge you put on a razor. Glad to see you posting here again.

Thanks fellas. I purchased my first Barber's hone, a Swaty and a couple of Henckels razors, a ”Platinum" and 118. I'll update here how they perform.

 

[noahpictures]

SHAVE (lost count) -
Razor: Taylor Eye Witness The 1000 Half Hollow
Date Honed: April 2012 by me using film
Hanging Hair Test: HHT4
Edge Magnified: Smooth
Leather Strop (Pre, Post shave): 50, 20

Closeness: 9.5 (DFS)
Comfort: 10

Lather: 10
Durability: N/A
Feedback: 10
Enjoyment: 10
Time: N/A
Pre: Washed face with shaving soap. Applied glycerin
Brush: Semogue 620
SS/SC: Mike's Natural Shaving Soap (Barbershop)
AS: Thayers Witch Hazel (Unscented/Alcohol Free)/Floid Suave splash

A very comfortable DFS.

I finally learned to relax and not obsess over perfection (daily comfortable BBS). This was caused by taking a few weeks off from using straights due to time constraints and gaining a new perspective on simplifying my routine. Now I shave in two passes(WTG, ATG) instead of four. Ideally a straight razor should deliver great shaves in two passes, me thinks. If it doesn't (edge wasn't sharp or technique was off), then I clean up with a DE.

I also stopped doing HHT before every shave and don't hone razors after a few shaves. I attribute that to gained experience. Now I focus on prep and good lather (cushiony and slick).

I have become a fan of Mike's Natural Shaving Soaps. I find them to be very slick. Today I used a sample of Barbershop (very bold scent). I have used three different flavors and their performance is comparable to MWF and Tabac (my two favorites), if not better. After a few more weeks of use I will compare Mike's with the best soaps in my den.

 

[noahpictures]

Razor: Wacker 13/16 full hollow
Date Honed: March/April 2012 by me using lapping film
Hanging Hair Test: HHT3
Edge Magnified: Smooth
Leather Strop (Pre, Post shave): 50, 20

Closeness: 9.5 (DFS)
Comfort: 10

Lather: 9.5
Durability: N/A
Feedback: 10
Enjoyment: 10
Time: N/A
Pre: Washed face with shaving soap. Applied glycerin
Brush: Semogue 620
SS/SC: Mike's Natural Shaving Soap Lemongrass
AS: Thayers Witch Hazel (Unscented/Alcohol Free)/Nivea creme/Rose of Bulgaria

Nice shave.

 

[noahpictures]

Razor: Boker Damascus Magnetic 13/16 Half Hollow
Date Honed: September 30 2012 by me using lapping film
Hanging Hair Test: HHT3
Edge Magnified: Smooth
Leather Strop (Pre, Post shave): 50, 20

Closeness: 9.5 (DFS)
Comfort: 10

Lather: 10
Durability: N/A
Feedback: 10
Enjoyment: 10
Time: N/A
Pre: Washed face with shaving soap. Applied glycerin
Brush: Semogue 620
SS/SC: Mike's Natural Shaving Soap Barbershop
AS: Thayers Witch Hazel (Unscented/Alcohol Free)/Nivea creme

Almost BBS. Can't stop touching my face.

One of the razors that I purchased on ebay was described as "shave ready" and easily shaved arm hair and passed HHT upon arrival. So I made a rookie mistake and decided to shave with it without first looking at the edge carefully to make sure it was smooth and shiny. After the first swipe I wiped the lather off the edge and saw a bit of blood. I put down the razor and picked the Boker that I honed myself and had a great shave. After the shave I looked at the ebay razor and saw the edge had rough scratches on it. I will smooth the edge with 5 and 1 micron films.

 

[noahpictures]

Razor: Henckels 118 quarter hollow
Date Honed: October 2012 by me using lapping film
Hanging Hair Test: HHT3
Edge Magnified: Didn't magnify
Leather Strop (Pre, Post shave): 50, 20

Closeness: 9 (DFS)
Comfort: 9.5

Lather: 9.5
Durability: N/A
Feedback: 10
Enjoyment: 10
Time: N/A
Pre: Washed face with shaving soap. Applied glycerin
Brush: Ever Ready TGNFF
SS/SC: Edwin Jagger Sandalwood
AS: Thayers Witch Hazel (Unscented/Alcohol Free)/Nivea creme

Nice shave with some razor burn. Missed the slickness of the tallow soaps.

HONING
The last three razors (two full hollow, one quarter hollow) I honed, I didn't use crox. The first hollow shaved very well. Today I shaved with a quarter hollow and tomorrow I will shave with the third razor which is also full hollow. I am sure there are certain razors that respond well to crox and others that don't. Maybe it has to do with the grind. I will find out and update here.

A while back I noticed that the heel and toe of the blades honed keener than the middle. I tried to find a remedy and the only two things that fixed the problem were raising the lapping plate by half of an inch and rolling X strokes which I still find PIA and only use them when nothing else works.