Working on my first Gold Dollar 66
- Thread starter timtiminy
- Start date
Good job! What are you working on for scales?
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- #3
I kind of like keeping the orb of GD. I don't know why people love to remove it.
Honduran Rosewood Burl
FTW
FTW
Horn! 
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- #7
just grind it down from the corner of teh spine to teh chip on an angle, might look pretty cool, (maybe not.)
Make it a French point
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
I would toss it or keep it for a practice piece for electro etching or engraving or spine shaping.
Flask, I use a lot of the sanding drums and lately using the flap wheel thingie a lot. I never use the stones but sometimes use the carbide bits for stuff. I think you will find the drums to be very popular.
I use a cheap heavy duty Dremel knockoff from harbor freight. Multi speed. Plenty of torque. Gets hot though. That's okay it keeps me from overheating the piece I am working on.
Flask, I use a lot of the sanding drums and lately using the flap wheel thingie a lot. I never use the stones but sometimes use the carbide bits for stuff. I think you will find the drums to be very popular.
I use a cheap heavy duty Dremel knockoff from harbor freight. Multi speed. Plenty of torque. Gets hot though. That's okay it keeps me from overheating the piece I am working on.
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- #12
Flask: Im using a 2" sanding drum attachment ( http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-sanding-drum-kit-42006.html ) on my variable speed drill press, seems to be working good if I go slow and keep track of how I'm handling the blade. I haven't brought out the Dremel but I probably will with the flap wheel Slash speaks of.
Slash: Any advice on spine shaping? Seems like the GD has some inherent smile through its design and if I look at the profile of the razor the hollow grind isn't quite symmetrical.. one side having a higher or lower spine than the other. I'm having a bit of a problem getting the spine thinner and keeping it even/flat through the length of the spine.
Slash: Any advice on spine shaping? Seems like the GD has some inherent smile through its design and if I look at the profile of the razor the hollow grind isn't quite symmetrical.. one side having a higher or lower spine than the other. I'm having a bit of a problem getting the spine thinner and keeping it even/flat through the length of the spine.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
For spine shaping or thinning or evening out I glue coarse sandpaper to a marble tile and work it flat and even first. Then sandpaper glued to rubber hose of various sizes to address the hollow at the spine. You can like hone it with the edge slightly elevated off the paper to get the spine right. Adjust pressure toward heel or toe as needed. Breadknife the edge and then rough hone to get the spine and edge matching up. Put more pressure on the spine since usually the spine is too thick for the desired bevel angle. You will want to thin the tang too so there is not a shoulder to ride up on the hone. Coarse sandpaper glued to marble tile will gitter done. To round off the edges of the flats you have ground into the spine use small pieces of coarse paper and your fingers. Also for sanding out the divots left by the Dremel when removing the heel.
Certainly there are quicker ways than hand sanding but you get smooth and consistent results. By coarse I mean like 80 grit. Finish by sanding crossways until you have a good crosshatch pattern. Move up to the next grit and sand until those Ross scratches are completely gone than make new finer cross scratches. The cross scratches are like witness lines that let you know when you have properly obliterated all the coarser scratches. By the time you get to 2k grit you have a soft lustrous finish. Move up to diamond paste on the felt or cloth wheel in your Dremel for a mirror finish.
Certainly there are quicker ways than hand sanding but you get smooth and consistent results. By coarse I mean like 80 grit. Finish by sanding crossways until you have a good crosshatch pattern. Move up to the next grit and sand until those Ross scratches are completely gone than make new finer cross scratches. The cross scratches are like witness lines that let you know when you have properly obliterated all the coarser scratches. By the time you get to 2k grit you have a soft lustrous finish. Move up to diamond paste on the felt or cloth wheel in your Dremel for a mirror finish.
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- #14
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- #15
For other newbies like me wanting just enough to grind down the heel to where it will hone: don't buy the cheap $10 rotary from harbor freight. It has all the attachments you need in the kit, but its chuck is too small for about half of them. The sanding wheels won't work. The stone grinding wheels work, but slowly and the stones wear out quickly. I will probably be headed back to harbor freight to get the (still inexpensive)$20 multi-speed rotary tool they sell. I believe it's the one slash is describing.
