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Where does the scritch go?

AimlessWanderer

Remember to forget me!
In boar brushes, the general consensus is that they break in by forming slit ends, which badger brushes supposedly don't do. Yet badger brushes also supposedly break in and descritch themselves in time.

So if the ends aren't splitting, what's happening?
 
In boar brushes, the general consensus is that they break in by forming slit ends, which badger brushes supposedly don't do. Yet badger brushes also supposedly break in and descritch themselves in time.

So if the ends aren't splitting, what's happening?
I think the ends are wearing down slightly, enough to round off the sharper edges. The effect is very gradual and not a drastic change as with boar brushes.
 

Owen Bawn

Garden party cupcake scented
Good question. I haven't an answer but I've observed that the process takes years with a quality Pure badger, while I've noticed that Zenith Manchurians, for example, have some scritch right out the box but that most if not all of it dissipates after 10 or 12 shaves. I've had similar experiences with some but not all Simpsons Best brushes. Most badgers, however, seem to change very little after use.
 
Years ago I acquired a set of Loupes for work and pleasure. The oldest Pure brush currently on the shelf is a Simpson G2 ~5yrs and has definitely softened with use.

You know what, some of those off-grade black guard hairs are split. Not by much. One or two hair widths deep but definitely split and some are rounded on the tip as @Atlantic59 points out. Some of the on-grade hairs are split and some are roughed up or feathered at the tips. It's not a lot like a boar and not long splits like a boar either. But you don't have to go hunting for them, there's a few in any pinch of hair.

I'll try to take a pic or two tomorrow. Don't hold your breath I'm not a photographer and my camera is just an old point and shoot with a gratuitous 'macro' feature. I needed to use the 15X and 20X loupe to hone in on them. Weird.
 
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Hi there. As far as for the Simpson badger brushes ...i’ve come to the conclusion that it takes a long time to soften their tips dramatically. My 1st Simpson was a travel size one , and it took (as I remember) at least 3 to 4 yrs for the tips to get gentle for face lathering. All my next 5 Simpson..are new ones but i gotta tell you ,if you like soft tips you have to go with Super(silvertip) regarding the Simpson brushes.
 
In boar brushes, the general consensus is that they break in by forming slit ends, which badger brushes supposedly don't do. Yet badger brushes also supposedly break in and descritch themselves in time.

So if the ends aren't splitting, what's happening?
IDK, don't really care.

FWIW, I have completely switched to synthetic.
 
Will be interesting and I typed wrong it is a badger not a boar.
I actually have a boar never use it due to the scritch but it was never broken in either so many nice synthetics 😂
 
Which one is it?

Hope you'll like it!
I ordered a uomo badger Manchurian fan knot to glue in a brushguy handle which synthetic knot was not properly seated by me. The vision of a tilted knot irritated 😤 and last natural knot I used was more than 5 years ago.
 
Years ago I acquired a set of Loupes for work and pleasure. The oldest Pure brush currently on the shelf is a Simpson G2 ~5yrs and has definitely softened with use.

You know what, some of those off-grade black guard hairs are split. Not by much. One or two hair widths deep but definitely split and some are rounded on the tip as @Atlantic59 points out. Some of the on-grade hairs are split and some are roughed up or feathered at the tips. It's not a lot like a boar and not long splits like a boar either. But you don't have to go hunting for them, there's a few in any pinch of hair.

I'll try to take a pic or two tomorrow. Don't hold your breath I'm not a photographer and my camera is just an old point and shoot with a gratuitous 'macro' feature. I needed to use the 15X and 20X loupe to hone in on them. Weird.

Thanks for the description! Photos would be most welcome! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
I apologize in advance for the lack of quality, my skills are snap shot, point and shoot level at best.

Pure hair splits web.png


Pure Splits 2.png


Pure splits 3.png


These are from the brush on the left.
View media item 65943
 
@old_school Thank you for the pics. Very interesting. There's also a few sharp looking quills in there too. ;)
Yes there is, I think Pure will always have some prickle to it. I hope mine do, that's why they're in the mix. Acquiring a Simpson Pure expecting one day to wind up with a Super would be a waste of time and money. But it can break-in and soften over time.
 
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In boar brushes, the general consensus is that they break in by forming slit ends, which badger brushes supposedly don't do. Yet badger brushes also supposedly break in and descritch themselves in time.

So if the ends aren't splitting, what's happening?

For natural, non-gelled badger brushes, the tips curl or hook after some use.

The curled tip means the rounded part will make contact with the skin which feels incredibly soft and plush.

I find the level of curling to be greater with silvertip, which is probably why they feel softer on the face.
 
I have a Yaqi moka 2 band. Even though it lost hair during each shave it had a lovely scritch. It made me put my boar brushes aside. After 6 months that moka became soft like a Silvertip. No scritch at all. Totally disappointed. Boar brushes are back in my usage. My Proraso brush has maintained its scritch due to its a few black bristles in it.

I am not sure if there are other badger brushes that mantain the scritch for a long time.
 
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