What to look for in a straight razor

[miksterz]

Hello,

I've been DE shaving for a year and a bit, and think I am ready to make the move to a straight razor. I have coarse facial hair as well as very fast hair growth. I've had absolutely no issues with DEs of varying aggressiveness but it takes more passes than I would like to get a BBS. I'm hoping a straight razor will rectify this.

Now, when it comes the DE razors, I know which variables matter. For instance, blade exposure, angle, and weight of the razor are all factors that have played an important part in my experience. On the other hand, when it comes to straight razors I have no idea what to look out for. Given my coarse facial hair, are there any factors that are particularly important? I'd rather not buy a sight unseen razor (I'm pretty sure I'll stick with so don't need to be too cheap) but would also rather not spend a ton of money right now. Therefore, I was hoping for some pointers that would put me in a position where I can potentially pull the trigger when I see a nice straight on the BST.

 

[ACorazza]

The two biggest variables to me are the width of the razor and the grind. Although I'm still new to straight shaving and have only used two razors(a 5/8's full hollow grind, and a 13/16's near wedge grind) i already have a few preferences. As far as size, I think 5/8 is the perfect size for a beginner. This size allows you very nimbly move the razor around. While you are learning, you will see that their are some spots on your face that may need to be shaved at a weird angle which may be harder with a large razor. That being said if you go a little larger it wouldn't hurt either as long as the razor isn't huge. The larger size will also add more weight to the razor which you might enjoy.

While were talking about weight, the other big variable is grind. A full hollow razor is light compared to heavy near wedge grind. Hollow grinds also flex more, while heavier grinds are stiffer. If you are like me and don/t shave everyday (or even every four days) you will probably enjoy a heavier grind while you a re still learning. They remove a full beard with less effort than a full hollow. If I shave everyday or two, both razors do equally well so grind is less of a variable. I also have a coarse heavy beard.

We can also talk vintage vs new. I have no personal experience with new razors but my vintage razors, the wedge being made sometime probably between 1850-1890, are great shavers. Depending on condition, maker and size, the price of a vintage razor can vary greatly. I would keep an eye out on the b/s/t for a good beginner razor. Sometimes members even post beginner sets including a strop. If you wanted to purchase a new razor there are still some razor makers, Dovo, Boker, Thiers Issard, and Hart are some off the top of my head. Be careful when buying a new razors that some manufacturers charge a premium for some scale materials while giving the same metal and I think you should find out what you like before spending excessive money for scales. Also some members customize Gold Dollars (A Chinese razor made of good steel but needs some work to get it going). They turn these ordinary razors into some very interesting designs.

Whatever razor you choose, the most important thing is that it is shave ready. Most razors need to be honed unless otherwise noted in the sale. However some sources are more reputable than others, for example if a razor is claimed as shave ready on eBay, it may need to be honed, but if it is sold by a well regarded member on the forums as shave ready, it most likely is. If you have any questions feel free to ask and someone, myself included, will be happy to try and answer.

 

[Seraphim]

Just make sure it come shave ready. Sharp is the most important factor for any razor.

Buying from the BST or the Hobbyist Classifieds gives you the best chance of getting a razor that truly will come shave ready.

Whipped Dog also has a great reputation, but you've already contemplated that.


Just buy a razor that YOU like the looks of. No such thing as a "beginner" straight.


Jump on in!

 

[smalltank]

no rust/deep pitting/damage anywhere if its your first razor

 

[global_dev]

Read some of the shave clinic journals. Note what people are using, change to, feel etc... That's one reason why many are there.

 

[miksterz]

The two biggest variables to me are the width of the razor and the grind. Although I'm still new to straight shaving and have only used two razors(a 5/8's full hollow grind, and a 13/16's near wedge grind) i already have a few preferences. As far as size, I think 5/8 is the perfect size for a beginner. This size allows you very nimbly move the razor around. While you are learning, you will see that their are some spots on your face that may need to be shaved at a weird angle which may be harder with a large razor. That being said if you go a little larger it wouldn't hurt either as long as the razor isn't huge. The larger size will also add more weight to the razor which you might enjoy.

While were talking about weight, the other big variable is grind. A full hollow razor is light compared to heavy near wedge grind. Hollow grinds also flex more, while heavier grinds are stiffer. If you are like me and don/t shave everyday (or even every four days) you will probably enjoy a heavier grind while you a re still learning. They remove a full beard with less effort than a full hollow. If I shave everyday or two, both razors do equally well so grind is less of a variable. I also have a coarse heavy beard.

We can also talk vintage vs new. I have no personal experience with new razors but my vintage razors, the wedge being made sometime probably between 1850-1890, are great shavers. Depending on condition, maker and size, the price of a vintage razor can vary greatly. I would keep an eye out on the b/s/t for a good beginner razor. Sometimes members even post beginner sets including a strop. If you wanted to purchase a new razor there are still some razor makers, Dovo, Boker, Thiers Issard, and Hart are some off the top of my head. Be careful when buying a new razors that some manufacturers charge a premium for some scale materials while giving the same metal and I think you should find out what you like before spending excessive money for scales. Also some members customize Gold Dollars (A Chinese razor made of good steel but needs some work to get it going). They turn these ordinary razors into some very interesting designs.

Whatever razor you choose, the most important thing is that it is shave ready. Most razors need to be honed unless otherwise noted in the sale. However some sources are more reputable than others, for example if a razor is claimed as shave ready on eBay, it may need to be honed, but if it is sold by a well regarded member on the forums as shave ready, it most likely is. If you have any questions feel free to ask and someone, myself included, will be happy to try and answer.

Thanks for such a detailed response! Really appreciate it. Seems there are not as many variables when it comes to straights but rather a matter of personal preference. That's good to know about the grind - wasn't quite sure what it meant. I don't think I want to get a full hollow for the reasons you mentioned.

Stuff sells SO fast on here. I don't know how I will find a good looking razor with the right specs before someone else snaps it up!

 

[miksterz]

Thanks, everyone. Can't wait to get my hands on a straight.

 

[buca3152]

I dont know if this was mentioned, but the tip for a first razor should be round point IMO, if its a spike, the tip should be muted as that little bugger sliced my ear lobe once. (I wasnt shaving my ear). I prefer a round tip anyway as I do a sideways atg on the neck and it helps not having to worry about it. YMMV.

 

[ACorazza]

As Buca3152 mentioned, the tip can be another variable and I agree that you should start with a round or muted point. When first starting out, sometimes you focus so much on the angle of where you're shaving, that you forget to look where the point is going. I still do it today and that is after a few months of using a straight, luckily not too many cuts.

As far as people being very quick to grab stuff off b/s/t, you might want to post a Want to buy thread when you're ready. You might catch someone getting ready to sell a razor but hasn't had a chance to do it yet.

 

[global_dev]

There are some livi regrinds for a respectable reasonable price here or there. I don't have one, but its a great midrange to upper that is just right in size and point for a newbie and keeper. I wouldn't wait on it unless it had severe edge or spine wear issues which I don't see.

Its a BIN mastro living in cocobolo. Reasonable priced and nice looking

 

[sugra]

YMMV, but as a new SR enthusiast also with a coarse and fast growing beard, I do find that the heavier grinds suit me better. The crusty old 150 year old W&B near wedge that I got for $30 on eBay (once honed) is seeing a lot more love than the Dovo BQ that I bought brand new for quite a bit more. I'm finding the "sing" factor to be a bit over-rated for my situation. Perhaps that may change as my skills improve but that's where I am right now... and I shave daily.

You might do well to start with a muted spike juuuust to get used to it being there. You will most likely end up buying a razor of that style at some point (bad pun). Once you get the feel for "length" around the ears and sideburns, due care comes as second nature.

Good luck!

 

[buca3152]

I tried all types of razors from 4/8 to 8/8. extra hollow to full wedge. I have found that when sharpened correctly they all shave the same. YMMV. The whole shave has to be looked at. Lather, prep sharpness technique and to me the most important is liitle to no pressure. It seems the lighter(pressure) I shave the better my shaves are. I still dont know why.

 

[global_dev]

To say they all shave the same is really not the full story. There is way more to it and I feel that answer is a bit disingenuous and misleading.

Yes, a BBS is a BBS but they truly arent the same. I don't believe prep and lather come into play as much as comfort and enjoyability of the particular straight.

 

[ACorazza]

While the end result may be the same. The road to getting there can be different especially for a beginner. Once experienced I bet you probably shave great with anything but while learning some differnces might help. For example I think a beginner would be better off learning with an average middle size blade (5/8 or 6/8) compared to a very light 3/8 or a monster 8/8 which might not be as maneuvable, especially when learning new angles of attack to get some tricky spots on your face. There are still some directions to move on my face that I can only do with a DE because I can't figure out a comfortable way to go about it with my straight. I can only imagine that it would be even harder with a monster sized razor. Also even though I have never used small razors, they are notorious for being light an I think I would want to use too much pressure with one and shaving requires no pressure.

 

[miksterz]

God, I love this forum. So much great advice. I feel I'm ready to go ahead and make a purchase now. Will report back as this progresses!

 

[buca3152]

To say they all shave the same is really not the full story. There is way more to it and I feel that answer is a bit disingenuous and misleading.

Yes, a BBS is a BBS but they truly arent the same. I don't believe prep and lather come into play as much as comfort and enjoyability of the particular straight.

What I mean is with the same technique, I can get a BBS with a 4/8 or 8/8 extra hollow or full wedge. The wedge doesn't budge at all but if your extra hollow flexes, then your are using too much pressure. IMO the prep is as important to me as any other part of the shave. Wedges seem easier at first, but I have found that a blade is a blade. And if you use it correctly your results will be the same IMO. YMMV.

 

[California Cajun]

Hello,

I've been DE shaving for a year and a bit, and think I am ready to make the move to a straight razor. I have coarse facial hair as well as very fast hair growth. I've had absolutely no issues with DEs of varying aggressiveness but it takes more passes than I would like to get a BBS. I'm hoping a straight razor will rectify this.

Now, when it comes the DE razors, I know which variables matter. For instance, blade exposure, angle, and weight of the razor are all factors that have played an important part in my experience. On the other hand, when it comes to straight razors I have no idea what to look out for. Given my coarse facial hair, are there any factors that are particularly important? I'd rather not buy a sight unseen razor (I'm pretty sure I'll stick with so don't need to be too cheap) but would also rather not spend a ton of money right now. Therefore, I was hoping for some pointers that would put me in a position where I can potentially pull the trigger when I see a nice straight on the BST.

When I was inexperienced, I liked the larger razors (e.g. 7/8) because when my technique was lacking the heft of the razor helped get razor stubble I couldn't get with smaller razors. Now that I am experienced, I like 5/8 razors the best because they're lighter and I'm much more agile in the handling of it. There are experienced shavers that still prefer the larger razors but I am not one of them.

I really don't care about the grind as long as it is a hollow grind. The wedge doesn't give you the feel of the popping hairs like a hollow grind.

Another decision you need to make is the point of the razor. I like a round point, because of the lesser chance of cutting myself. Now I can use a square point with facility, but still prefer the round. There are other points that to me are cosmetic in nature (e.g. Spanish point, French point).

In summary, if I were you I'd get a 5/8, full hollow ground, round point. That is the ideal training razor in my opinion. For people like me, it is their favorite, period. I saw a guy on ebay selling Dovo basic 5/8 razors for $63.99, $70 and change with shipping. That's a pretty good deal, except that they are likely not shave ready. If you get one that's not shave ready, I'd get it professionally honed the first time so you'll know how a shave ready razor feels on your face when you start maintaining your own blade.

 

[global_dev]

sorry everyone, this is gonna be a bit long and slightly deviates from perhaps the original intent of what OP was asking for, but i don't think so. When I talk to friends about straights this really burns in the back of MY mind (maybe no one else's).

all things being equal, prep, lather, technique, post shave result, i agree tangible results are tangible results.. but to OP and other people new to straights, it's like the difference in suspension and steering tuning in a car... things feel different... and that can really make or break the enjoyment of the process.. and that's a personal preference, but IMHO a very important one. there is a similar feel in the DE world, but it's slightly different. maybe mild vs not mild, but if straights felt like the new model muhle r41 does to me, i would not be shaving with a straight.

FWIW, i do zero prep, my lather is pretty wet, minimal stretching with my fingers, minimal force (but some) and let the edge do almost all of the work (at least that's what i think after having become comfortable with straights). I'd rather shave with a cart than a 3/8s... it's just not enjoyable to me. and that's something i look for in a straight razor..

how can i look someone in the face and say "go ahead a 4/8s is fine and just as enjoyable as a 13/16s when in the back of my mind I am thinking that they won't be using similar tools I am, but that the experience should be similar. it's not really going to be since, we aren't using the same, or similar, things. I only found that out after I went and got a much different razor than the one i started with... A 5/8s round GD 108 ($35) to a Hart square 6/8s 1/4 ($250?+).. even though i had some other straights between, it took a bunch of money to randomly stumble on and figure out something that dramatically changed my impression of straight shaving from an already dramatic change from cart to safeties and a dramatic change from safeties to straights. even a PIF that i got from dakotaev of a 5/8s solingen with a super sweet edge didn't compare, not because of the edge or the shave, but because of the size, heft, balance, etc... it was something intangibly described differently than the end result. which to me is huge. Now not every 6/8s razor needs to be $250 (that should be obvious), but they definitely aren't available retail for that much less ( i am talking sub $150). and the reason i say retail is that we don't typically suggest ebay razors for new to straight users.

I don't advocate not starting out with a 5/8s round point for under a $100. it worked for me and got me caught up in this mess , but i never once remember being told 4/8s-8/8s wedge to hollow.. 6 or a half dozen.. now i'd like to say a few different other things about razor sizes, none of them to to do with "you-now-what"-envy (and i am not talking voldemort), but i won't for several strategic reasons...

To my mind, it's like giving a friend a shea moisture brush or vdh badger or boar and then saying i love the feel of badger brushes when i really talking about the feel of 3/3 Rooney's Finest and asking them to make the leap in their imagination. And then getting them to pony up some funds to really understand what I am feeling when the question is

"I'd rather not buy a sight unseen razor (I'm pretty sure I'll stick with so don't need to be too cheap) but would also rather not spend a ton of money right now. "

To wrap this up a nice little package for OP (yeah right), we (and you) don't know what you like so it's hard to suggest, but a ton of money means different things to different people. To an avid user of sub $50 blades, $100 might be a lot, especially when compared to the price of a "sight unseen". To avid users of $150-$450 blades, which many used and new retail for, $75-$100 doesn't get you much of what you desire especially if i's a Wade & Butchers, C.V.Heljestrands, Filarmonicas, Dubl Ducks, C-Mon, Herders , Friodurs, or other well-known or desirable trait-ed blade, like the 8/8+s blades Rodgers, Reynolds, GBs, or whatever else.. and to those with many semi-customs - those are in the ranges of $450 - $1500, so a ballapark estimate of your price would help. You can PM some of us, so you won't be taken advantage of by unscrup's (hope that's not a member name).

If you just want a sight seen straight that has a great edge, many of the regular BST or Hobbyists will sell you a wonderful straight that shouldn't have any issues and they will stand behind the blade they sold you as appropriate. the things to look for are red rust, lots of deep pitting very near the edge, cracks, chips, severe and/or lopsided honewear, but you won't typically find that on the BST or hobbyists from people who appear to be very heavy into straights here.

good luck and hope this was helpful. and i hope i didn't insult anyone or step on their toes. this wasn't meant as trying to shout over any one else. I just struggle to be able to provide my friends with a similar experience to the one's i have for many of the reasons above.

 

[zingiersky]

I want to buy a TOP quality straight razor that has been honed by someone who has the experience and know how so that the razor is have ready. Anyone on these forums who can purchase, hone and ship the razor to me ( I live in India)? I will pay the cost of purchase, honing and shipping. Please let me know soon.

 

[global_dev]

Go to the hobbyist sub forum and take your pick.