What am I looking at?

[shevek]

I'm trying a restoration for the first time with an Erskine I purchased at ebay but I need some help. Here's how it started...



I purchased a bunch of supplies (epoxy, sandpaper, new drill bits). Then i started trying to get the bristles out.



I got most of it but inside is a bunch of bristle roots and gunk sitting in some kind of bowl that can be moved with pressure. Should I be using the drill to shave off the remaining bristles? Or am i trying to break through the thing that holds the bristles together?




This is what it looks like now after some poking with my drill. I figure I should stop and get some advice before I destroy it....

Can someone give me some pointers on what exactly I should be doing to get the remaining bristles out?

Thanks in advance!

 

[shevek]

One more pic showing the make in case that is helpful....

 

[GDCarrington]

This is an Erksine brush made in NYC in the mid 1950s to early 1960s. It was a boar brush.

A Dremel with a sanding drum or a 115 Dremel bit can be used to clean out the hole. I would advise the sanding drum since you are new to the restoration game. It takes a little off at a time versus the 115 bit which can remove a lot if you are not use to it.

Clean it in hand dishwashing liquid and get a good rubber / vinyl cleaner restorer (i.e. Lexol) to restore the rubber section of the handle.

Good fortune to you.

 

[hig789]

My advise is to keep drilling. You might not break through it since the handle might not be hollow, but that is the base of the knot that held it together. I would at least drill deep enough to set your new knot at the right depth. And I still use the sanding drums like GD recommended they work great and are cheap.

 

[shevek]

Ok thanks for the pointers and history!

Since I don't own a dremmel and didn't want to invest too much more money until I know this will be more than a one time thing, I found a cheap $30 rotary kit that has a sanding drum and many other attachments.



I tried the sanding drum but the roll would not stay on. Either I have no idea what I'm doing (probably) or it's just a bad fit due this being an poorly made kit. So I tried an attachment with grinding stone on the end and now I'm making progress. After a few minutes, I have to say the room i was working in smelled extremely toxic so I'm taking a break. Window was open, but this task is definitely suited for a work room with proper ventilation and I live in a city apartment...Oh well...

Now I can figure out what size knot to purchase. I'm thinking of getting the TGN 20m Finest Badger.



Seems like there is just over 20m of clearance to get the knot in. I'll have to drill out a bit more to get the knot at a good depth. If you know anything else about this handle historically or have more pointers, please send them my way!

 

[GDCarrington]

Ok thanks for the pointers and history!

Since I don't own a dremmel and didn't want to invest too much more money until I know this will be more than a one time thing, I found a cheap $30 rotary kit that has a sanding drum and many other attachments.

View attachment 316629

I tried the sanding drum but the roll would not stay on. Either I have no idea what I'm doing (probably) or it's just a bad fit due this being an poorly made kit. So I tried an attachment with grinding stone on the end and now I'm making progress. After a few minutes, I have to say the room i was working in smelled extremely toxic so I'm taking a break. Window was open, but this task is definitely suited for a work room with proper ventilation and I live in a city apartment...Oh well...

Now I can figure out what size knot to purchase. I'm thinking of getting the TGN 20m Finest Badger.

View attachment 316635

Seems like there is just over 20m of clearance to get the knot in. I'll have to drill out a bit more to get the knot at a good depth. If you know anything else about this handle historically or have more pointers, please send them my way!

Sometimes the rolls are made slightly too large for the drum bit. If the roll falls off, try some painters masking tape around the drum to see if you can eliminate the space between the drum and the sanding roll. The grinders work in a pinch.

 

[alpster]

There is a small screw in the end of the drum, when you tighten the screw the rubber drum expands to tighten the sand paper. I hope this makes sense.

Ronnie

 

[shevek]

alpster - that did it. My kit came with no instructions so this was definitely not obvious. After turning the screw the sand paper is now tight. Actually, I think i will get rid of this kit and getting either a Black and Decker or a real Dremel. The one page manual in mine actually states:

"WARNING: This product or its power cord may contain chemicals, including lead, known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling"

This does not seem normal to me!

 

[mblakele]

The warning label is nothing much to worry about: just modern labeling madness. Probably some of the parts are soldered with ordinary lead solder, that is all. Unless you plan to eat it or set it on fire, you should be fine.

If you have a drill, a forstner bit is a great way to remove old glue. You need one that is just the right size for the handle, though.

Before you go too far, I would also invest in calipers for measuring the hole. Caliper measurements will be much more reliable than a tape. They do not need to be digital: analog will do, and those can be found for less than $20 at stores like Home Depot.

 

[hig789]

I got my pair of digital calipers at harbor freight for $9 and they are still going strong and I use them all the time. On their 3rd battery. Very easy to read and use.

 

[GDCarrington]

I got my pair of digital calipers at harbor freight for $9 and they are still going strong and I use them all the time. On their 3rd battery. Very easy to read and use.

Same here. Easy and efficient!

 

[shevek]

The sanding drum turned out to be a little bit too big to maintain control in the small space so I stuck with grinders.



Anyone know what exactly the pink material might be?

 

[shevek]

Ok, answering my own question - this must have been rubber cement as pointed out in this thread... http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/203568-Brush-Set-in-Rubber

 

[wscottb7862]

I don';t know what it is, the pink... but you'll know the rubber when you hit it!!

 

[shevek]

Ok, perhaps this is the rubber you speak of?


Next step is to get as many scratches out of the handle as possible, polish it and then set the knot - a 20mm TGN Finist. Looking back now, I probably could have fit a 22mm but I'm going to stick with the 20mm and see how it goes.

 

[shevek]

This is an Erksine brush made in NYC in the mid 1950s to early 1960s. It was a boar brush.

A Dremel with a sanding drum or a 115 Dremel bit can be used to clean out the hole. I would advise the sanding drum since you are new to the restoration game.

I did end up using the sanding drum to widen the deeper part of the whole so i can set the knot a little bit lower than the original. The tips in this thread have been very helpful!

 

[shevek]

The warning label is nothing much to worry about: just modern labeling madness. Probably some of the parts are soldered with ordinary lead solder, that is all. Unless you plan to eat it or set it on fire, you should be fine.

If you have a drill, a forstner bit is a great way to remove old glue. You need one that is just the right size for the handle, though.

Before you go too far, I would also invest in calipers for measuring the hole. Caliper measurements will be much more reliable than a tape. They do not need to be digital: analog will do, and those can be found for less than $20 at stores like Home Depot.

I decided to keep the tool. It's actually been very effective so far. Probably it won't last as long as a real Dremel but this seems fine for a beginner.

Caliper seems like a much better tool vs the tape i was using. I'll pick one up before my next restore.

 

[shevek]

The end result..

A 44mm loft using a 20mm TGN Finest. Very soft but nice backbone at this height. I'm very happy with the quality of this knot. This is actually my first badger since my other 2 brushes are boar. Very nice lathers with Tabac soap and a few creams - TOBS Sandalwood, Speick and Musgo real classic. Can't wait for the next project...nice to know there is so much expertise to draw from at B&B!

 

[FL shaver]

Nice outcome! Enjoy it!

 

[Mr.Oak]

If you wanted, you could tape off the base of the bristles and use some plastic polish like flitz or maas to get the handle really shiny! Just use your hands and a rag.