Upper lip issues

[MichaelG]

I'm finally getting DE shaving down. I had issues with irritation and shave bumps on my lower cheeks and neck - nothing major, but I had to go back to cartridges a while back. I think I've become pretty proficient at all other areas of my face - cheeks, chin, neck - no bumps, no irritation - just good overall shaves. I settled down with a Gillette Slim and either 7 o'clocks (yellow) or Super Iridiums after trying a lot of blades. I've been wetshaving, off and on, for almost a year, so I'm pretty confident now that I know basically what works and doesn't.

The last major obstacle is my upper lip. I've tried shaving only with the grain or various cross-grain patterns, but I keep getting a tightness and a very slight burning sensation after my shave that lasts throughout the day. It's nothing major - I don't notice any redness, bumps or rash - it's just a sort of "inflamed feeling" if that makes any sense. I've tried balms, lotions, and aftershaves, including my most "healing" one - Speick, which I believe also has witch hazel. I think post shave stuff shouldn't really be thought of as healing, though - the trick is to get a good, irritation-free shave to start with.

I've even tried doing only one pass against the grain, but that didn't really help.

I'm sure it's a technique issue - I have trouble keeping the angle of my razor just right under my nose.

I'm ready to resign myself to using a Trac II under my nose and continue using my DEs for the rest of my face, but that feels like failure.

Like I've said, I'm pretty sure I have my prep, technique and products down - the rest of my face is fine.

Any ideas?

 

[theinternot]

I can only speak from my own experience, but your situation hits home for me.

I have tried many vintage Gillette's both TTO and fixed head. I have not been able to do ATG on my upper lip with any of them.

Using Merkur razors it is not any issue at all.

With the Gillette I would always get irritation and redness... and this is one of the main reasons I decided that the Gillette head was not for me.

So, a fairly inexpensive method to try this would be to get a Merkur off BST and give it a shot. I think a 23c can be had for less than $25, and if you don't like it you can sell it for what you paid for it.

Just my $.02

 

[Spivey]

How many lip positions are you using? Stretching the skin too much can be a bad thing just as not stretching it enough.

I don't even bother with a WTG pass on my lip anymore. I do 2 "outside to nose" passes and then an almost ATG pass.

 

[English]

Number one, try putting a bit of shaving oil on your lip to give a it more protection.

Next. Do not apply any weight to your razor at all. Let the weight of the head do all the work.

If this works but your lips are not quite smooth, instead of pressing, get a heavier razor or a sharper blade or keep changing your razor/blade combination until you are happy with the weight and the effect.

Bottom line, you are applying too much pressure at present and this is giving you razor burn and discomfort.

A good shave is when your facial hair is all gone, and your skin feels normal. Read that again. I get that sensation daily with a sharp straight razor.

It's all to do with undrstanding and feling the blade on your skin. If it is cutting and sharp, it's easy. If you have to press or pull its eitherthe weight of the blade or the sharpness thatbis at fault.

Never press , never pull....the result is always painful.

 

[ShaveAddict]

I would say only go whit the grain on that area.
Otherwise you play whit fire.

 

[MichaelG]

After today's shave and thinking more about it, I think it's a geometry issue. I notice I keep my blade angle more perpendicular in my upper lip area than elsewhere on my face.

Today, I tried A) Pre-shave oil on that area and B) shaving while concentrating on blade angle while keeping it to a combo of WTG and XTG. I'll see if that works.

I may have an issue with Gillette heads. Slims, Fat Boys and SSs all have relatively thick heads. Maybe I need a razor with a thinner head. I was looking at the Edwin Jagger razors with the new Muhle heads or the Muhle brand razors with the new heads. Maybe that would help with the geometry of the razor blade.

 

[BroJohn]

...SNIP!!
I don't even bother with a WTG pass on my lip anymore. I do 2 "outside to nose" passes and then an almost ATG pass.

I agree with the outside-in approach, and the near-ATG pass. The key is whisker reduction. I follow the near-ATG pass with a S-N pass, and by that time there's very little stubble left.

After today's shave and thinking more about it, I think it's a geometry issue. I notice I keep my blade angle more perpendicular in my upper lip area than elsewhere on my face.

I think that a stroke that is perpendicular to the upper lip is helpful, prior to a S-N effort.

I just kept trying and it took about a year for me to learn. I now routinely get BBS on the mustache area. Regardless of blade or razor, I only shave the mustache area to BBS on the first or second shave with a blade. After that, and for the rest of the blade life, ATG in the mustache area can be pretty rough, so I then avoid the effort.

-- John Gehman

 

[dpmtherrien]

This was given to me by another member several months ago and it works great at getting a very close shave in that area with no irritation.

When you in that area under your nose try keeping your lips together and blowing some air up under the upper lip. Either that or try sticking your tongue under the lip area. This really raises the area and makes it easier to get those stubborn whiskers. I always had some rough areas just up from the corners of my mouth on both left and right sides. Its very easy to do and at least for me it works wonders. I'm able to get all the rough spots under the nose and its as smooth as can be.

Of course don't use any other pressure other than that of the razor. Give it a try, I think you'll be really satisfied.

 

[Luc]

You might need to get a 3 pieces razor. I find those have thinner heads.

 

[theinternot]

After today's shave and thinking more about it, I think it's a geometry issue. I notice I keep my blade angle more perpendicular in my upper lip area than elsewhere on my face.

Today, I tried A) Pre-shave oil on that area and B) shaving while concentrating on blade angle while keeping it to a combo of WTG and XTG. I'll see if that works.

I may have an issue with Gillette heads. Slims, Fat Boys and SSs all have relatively thick heads. Maybe I need a razor with a thinner head. I was looking at the Edwin Jagger razors with the new Muhle heads or the Muhle brand razors with the new heads. Maybe that would help with the geometry of the razor blade.

Deja vu... I experienced this as well... the only difference being I had a Merkur 23c that I had already shaved with and could compare to. It is the very essence of YMMV!

 

[dpmtherrien]

You might need to get a 3 pieces razor. I find those have thinner heads.

Luc make a good point here, but you might also want to try the classic 1904 or the HD, both in open comb. Very thin heads on these.