I'm told the Feather Popular is mild, should I opt for a more aggressive razor, especially since I want to be done in two passes?
Using my Fatip Grande and a Polsilver or Gillette Yellow I can shave first pass against the grain at up to 80 hours growth and likely longer. My growth is also coarse and dense and I also generally shave every 48 hours. I seldom need more than a single light clean up after the initial buffing pass for a 12 hour BBS finish.
Applying pressure is rarely a good idea, however, there is a way. I tend to use a shallow to very shallow angle with my Grande. All pressure is applied between the two green lines.
Thats the only way I can reach that angle of blade to skin. Any less pressure and the blade lifts away from my skin. The more blade exposure available, the less pressure that needs to be applied to the cap to create that angle of edge to skin. Try reaching that angle of edge to skin with your Feather Popular. You most likely wont be able to because it doesnt have enough blade exposure to make it possible. I havent used one but I know I cant with a Gillette Tech.
Applying pressure to the cap, and only the cap, is the key point. When you do that you create a wave of skin that travels in front of the blades edge. All you need to do is find your optimum angle in regards to comfort and then apply enough pressure to the cap to engage the blades edge. Applying pressure to the blade is never a good idea.
A heavier razor can help but its more about how the razor is used and controlled, technique.
A rigidly supported blade in a razor that offers generous blade exposure I've personally found key to smooth and comfortable shaves. With the right blade matched to my hairs composition I feel virtually nothing.
Taking things up a notch are the GEM SE razors. The Fatip Grande is a very smooth and very capable razor and in two years straight of single pass ATG shaves I've only used one more capable tool, the GEM MMOC. What my Grande does, my MMOC does easier and with much more authority.
I didnt record my last shave here, but it was Monday evening or night. I dont remember.
MMOC/PTFE for its 4th shave.
WK.
Maggard Synthetic.
~100 hours since last shave. I dont think it would matter if it was around 200 hours.
Single buffing pass ATG. One clean up. The MMOC is all business and this was business as usual.
Nice comfy BBS. What more could be asked for.
Neither a Fatip nor a GEM of any type will set you back much. There will, naturally, be a learning curve but once you get the hang of them, it will have been worth it.
GEM razors incidentally, are designed to be used shallow. The angle is built right into them.
The basic rule of thumb is to keep the cap flat against the skin. As your technique evolves with them however, you may find that changes.