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To pleat or not to pleat

Pleats or Flat

  • Pleats

  • Front

  • Depends


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that is the ques...err poll!

Exactly what is says. Pleats or flat front, and why?

Personally, I think pleats look better so long as they are worn at the natural waist. Lower rise pants worn on the hips (as with the more current style) and non-dress pants look better with a flat front.
 
I bought two pairs of wool trousers at Harry Rosen a few weeks back. The sales associate asked 'pleats or not?' I took one of each.
 
that is the ques...err poll!

Exactly what is says. Pleats or flat front, and why?

Personally, I think pleats look better so long as they are worn at the natural waist. Lower rise pants worn on the hips (as with the more current style) and non-dress pants look better with a flat front.

Are you asking re suits, and I suppose sports jackets/blazers, or causal?

I would say that pleats as to any trousers, dress or casual, are more or less "out" right now. Not that I have turned in my entire wardrobe. There are plently of folks like me that still wear some with pleats. And if you do not like flat fronts, just wait around, those who sell clothes and command these things will mandate pleats again sooner or later.

I prefer flat front in everything, but there was a long darn time there that it was hard to get flat front, and believe me I buy suits for the long haul.

J Press has always had only flat front.

I remember, and some of the other old farts <g> around here can back me up or undercut me, that there was a time when pleated trousers were very rare. Then all of a sudden pleats were everywhere in new clothes for sale. At the time it was said that pleats make one look thinner that flat fronts.

And then a few years ago, trousers for sale started being all flat front. And it was said at the time home much thinner flat fronts made one look that do pleats!

And, so your next question might be: Cuffs or no cuffs with pleats/no pleats. Like everything else folks can have strong 180 degree differences while being absolutely certain they are right about what the "rules" are, so I am taking no positions on the matter. But I personally like cuffs on all trousers, although I have some in dress and casual that do not have cuffs. Some feel strongly that the rule is that pleats require cuffs, and I think I would follow that rule. Some, I do not know how many, argue that flat fronts should have no cuffs--that they are improper--or do not like cuffs at all. J Press has always had flat fronts with cuffs as the standard, maybe the only thing they sell. Thus, at least as to traditional prep and upper middle class eastern type clothes (not the best description, but you know what I mean) cuffs with flat fronts are absolutely proper, if not quite mandatory.
 
Being under 30 and thin, the advice I've read for someone like me is flat front all the way. It was a shame too, I came across a nice Hickey Freeman suit in the Barney's outlet last month. Jacket fit great, until I looked at the pants...
 
I always go flat front. I dont like the excess material. I know pleats are supposed to make a person look slimmer, but I think it does the opposite at least on me it does.
I am just not a pleat man.

And dont get me started on pant cuffs.:001_smile
 
I have a fondness for pleated fronts- to me trousers look slightly unfinished without them. If you have a slim figure, I don;t think you need to worry about either making you look fat. I'm not slim (not fat either) but I am only 5'7" and as I did a lot of hard sport as a child, my legs are about 50% thicker than most clothesmakers like, so I hate going for trousers. I did just pick up a pair of flat-front chinos and I found the fit is much more important with flat-front. I like a relaxed fit, but this makes f-front trousers look a bit wrong- they seem designed to emphasise your slimness and don't work if not well-fitted. This makes me slightly self-conscious when wearing them. Also, f-frnt and high waist = wearing them lower than you should to a) look contemporary and b) take attention away from your stomach and this isn't a good combination. Slightly hipsterised chinos with f-frnt will work well.
 
I have a fondness for pleated fronts- to me trousers look slightly unfinished without them. If you have a slim figure, I don;t think you need to worry about either making you look fat. I'm not slim (not fat either) but I am only 5'7" and as I did a lot of hard sport as a child, my legs are about 50% thicker than most clothesmakers like, so I hate going for trousers. I did just pick up a pair of flat-front chinos and I found the fit is much more important with flat-front. I like a relaxed fit, but this makes f-front trousers look a bit wrong- they seem designed to emphasise your slimness and don't work if not well-fitted. This makes me slightly self-conscious when wearing them. Also, f-frnt and high waist = wearing them lower than you should to a) look contemporary and b) take attention away from your stomach and this isn't a good combination. Slightly hipsterised chinos with f-frnt will work well.

I hear you on all of that, for sure! By the way, I do not think that pleats or flat front are either slimming or not slimming. We all get used to seeing folks wear various styles and can tell who weighs what and who is in shape--not me, unfortunatlely. Although suits are different. A good tailor can do a lot for one!
 
I'm fortunate in that you can get a made-to-measure 100% wool or silk/wool blend suit over here for 800rmb, or about $120!
not got round to it yet but its on my to do list
 
Pleats are definitely "out" right now in terms of style, but I still wear them to work once or twice a week. I've got a number of nice pleated trousers and there is no way I'm getting rid of them, ever. I do actually prefer the fit, feel, and look of flat front so I'm fine with them being the "go to" style nowadays. However, this in no way makes wearing pleats even remotely ridiculous. On the contrary, I would consider pleats on the trousers nowadays to be the more "traditional," "conservative," "old school," maybe even more "formal" look. My best suit still has pleated trousers with cuffs and that's fine by me, it's a dark navy suit so I can wear it to any formal occasion and frankly I'd prefer something like that for such occasions than a dashing, more tightly cut Italian kind of thing with tighter pants with no pleats, no cuffs, and a more tapered waist on the jacket.
 
"Cuffs" ( or turn-ups as I've always called them) are soooo out in The UK, you'd cause consternation amongst your friends if you got them.
 
Very interesting.. I had no idea pleats were "out" call me old (I'm 24). Jeez, what am I supposed to do read fashion magazines on this topic? :lol: Anyway, this is why I love B&B. Learn something about class and culture every day on this forum
 
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