I am putting on new walnut scales on my pre-1890 W&B. When it comes to the wedge (which will be wood) should I glue it then pin it or just pin it?
The Wedge
- Thread starter Riff Raff
- Start date
I like to glue both sides of the wedge in, then do the final shaping of the wedge to the scales. Makes a seamless transition from wedge to scales with no cracks.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks. What glue do you recommend?
superglue all the way baby
- Thread starter
- #5
Wow. I would have thought wood glue, Gorilla glue, or even marine adhesive. Super glue it is then. Thanks,
Consider this:
1. If you're making translucent horn scales with an ivory wedge, you can see through the scale, and need transparent glue.
2. If you make a mistake gluing in the scale, you can use a full-hollow razor to scrape the wedge off the scale to make adjustments.
3. The glue doesn't have to create a super great bond, because it's strength is compounded with the addition of the pin/peen.
4. NOTE: Wood scales and thicker scales don't flex much, so don't make the "fork" at the pivot end more than 1/4-1/2" or it'll likely pull the wedge end apart even after its peened and leave an unsightly space/crack between scale and wedge.
1. If you're making translucent horn scales with an ivory wedge, you can see through the scale, and need transparent glue.
2. If you make a mistake gluing in the scale, you can use a full-hollow razor to scrape the wedge off the scale to make adjustments.
3. The glue doesn't have to create a super great bond, because it's strength is compounded with the addition of the pin/peen.
4. NOTE: Wood scales and thicker scales don't flex much, so don't make the "fork" at the pivot end more than 1/4-1/2" or it'll likely pull the wedge end apart even after its peened and leave an unsightly space/crack between scale and wedge.
I know it's a little late now but I prefer to not use glue. Sometimes it's best to use glue but I try to only use it as a last resort.
As long as everything is flat you shouldn't have a big problem.
One reason I don't liking using glue is most of the time you are forced to leave it as is (or chance chipping something orhaving to sand a lot more).
Sometimes you get it together and decide it not the combo your looking for... if it's not glued, you just take t apart, fit another color/piece and off you go.
I use a very good epoxy to glue scales and don't use pins unless I am doing a real "restore" (meaning no new scales). For pimping, the epoxy is great. If you tried to remove the wedge you would break the scales. Here's one glued.
- Thread starter
- #9
I use a very good epoxy to glue scales and don't use pins unless I am doing a real "restore" (meaning no new scales). For pimping, the epoxy is great. If you tried to remove the wedge you would break the scales. Here's one glued.
All great suggestions. Thanks to all of you.
Alpster, that is one gorgeous razor. The scales are awesome. What epoxy did you use?
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
I like to glue one side. It is easier to keep it lined up. for sanding and finishing. Sometimes I use a hidden pin to keep it from rotating, and don't glue, especially with thicker scales. On a few razors I have used two pins to prevent rotation. I don't like the wedge to float freely because it is easier to sand and finish smoothly to the scales when the wedge cannot rotate about the pin. However, and unglued wedge does make it easier to try different wedge colors or thicknesses or tapers. On a few razors I have purposely made the wedge slightly undersize all around. I will do one like that in the next batch of GDs I do. There are lots of options. I generally make initial and trial pinnings with microfastener bolts for easy adjustment or removal. Real pins don't go in until I am totally satisfied with the whole setup. Sometimes I simply peen down the end of the bolt without the nut, though there are durability issues with the brass which is softer than the nickel-silver pins.
When I glue, I only use a tiny dot of glue. All that is needed is to prevent rotation. If the glue spot is very small, the wedge can more easily be removed should there ever be a reason to do so.
With very thick or stiff scales, it may be necessary to completely glue and clamp the wedge to both scales. As Daflorc pointed out, sometimes squeezing the pivot end together will force the scales and wedge apart at the very end of the scales.
When I glue, I only use a tiny dot of glue. All that is needed is to prevent rotation. If the glue spot is very small, the wedge can more easily be removed should there ever be a reason to do so.
With very thick or stiff scales, it may be necessary to completely glue and clamp the wedge to both scales. As Daflorc pointed out, sometimes squeezing the pivot end together will force the scales and wedge apart at the very end of the scales.
If you're using a translucent scale material, the glue can show if it's uneven. Had that happen with a red wedge on ghost G10 once.
This, too ^^^
Thanks! The epoxy I use is called "Rod Bond". It's designed for building custom fishing rods, but I use it for anything that needs to stay forever. You can get it here http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/U-40/U-40-Rod-Bond
