Teach me about stubble..

[No1Up]

Say, 24 hour stubble, your neck feels like sand paper. Is it better to get it with a mild razor or an aggressive razor?

Right now, I have this stubble. The right side of my neck feels, burnt? Irritated? Idk… I can grow out my beard for a few months, or if I shave it back down the redness goes away. BUT it’ll be back tomorrow! I’m experimenting to see what works without having to take the nuclear grow my beard out option.

 

[emwolf]

For me, multiple day growths benefit from an aggressive razor. Day to day shaving I much prefer a mild razor. Today I shaved with the Phoenix Meta 4, a very mild and comfortable shave. I generally shave every day I go to work.

 

[BigJ]

My approach is to start every day with a shave. It is just routine after many years, otherwise I feel like a bum!

As to razor, etc., my preference is a ‘mild/moderate’ razor plus a sharp blade. I also benefit from a good prep and a slick lather, followed by a soothing splash. YMMV for sure!

 

[StewB]

Neck irritation is a common problem. I have mostly overcome it by:

• Making sure my stubble is very wet
• Making sure my lather is very wet and slick; I live in a dry climate and use a little fingertip water sprayer to spritz the top of the lather if it gets too dry
• Using a fresh enough blade
• Using no more than 2 passes on the neck
• Shaving "with the grain" in the first pass on the neck (for me, that's "south to north")
• Making sure I'm using a light touch with the razor, especially on the neck
• Avoiding "over shaving"
• Using short strokes

There are a number of variables at play that can lead to neck irritation so as you learn it's good to change only one variable at a time (such as blade, razor, and soap).

Another suggestion is to try a pre-shave gel such as Razorock or Cella to get an idea of the slickness you'll need.

Shaving without neck irritation using a DE razor is absolutely an achieveable goal. Proceed slowly and practice your technique and you should start seeing improvement.

 

[horizon]

In my opinion, when the technique is good, you can get a good shave with any razor with few exceptions.
I use razors of different aggressiveness, but not very soft like the Mühle P89, (that's the exception I meant) with this razor, I couldn't get a real BBS, so I just stopped using it. With the rest, medium to aggressive, I always look for and achieve a sheer BBS that lasts at least 12 hours and often over 15 hours. The most aggressive is P41 GS, but in practice, I can achieve the same shave with Rocca, Athena or Blackbird. Even with a relatively soft razor, like the Ghost, I manage to achieve the result I'm always looking for.
The end result with the razors listed is always the same, but the way it is achieved is different.
Aggressive razors require less repetitions, but more attention to detail, angle, pressure, etc..., respectively, softer razors will make you do more repetitions in the same area, which can lead to the same irritations and burns as with an aggressive tool.
For me, the best combination of efficiency and smoothness, I get from Athena, but I have come across opinions of other people who say that for them it is too aggressive.
So as usual, the answer can be very subjective, and the best way to know what will suit your case is to try and get personal impressions.
However, I will end as I began by repeating that in my opinion, technique is the most important factor in a good shave.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

Aren’t you asking basically the same thing you asked in this thread:

Adjustable or multiple razor technique?

I’m thinking of starting out a bit more aggressive for the first pass and lower every subsequent pass.. I’m looking at adjustable or multiple razors. The 6s caught my eye but it seems to be a hate it or love it razor. The Osprey looks interesting 🤔 beautiful piece. Reviews by users here seem...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[brucered]

I don't understand the question.

Shave it off with any razor. As long as your technique is fine, it shouldn't matter or cause irritation.

If you are getting irritation or redness, it's user error and not the razors fault.

 

[No1Up]

Aren’t you asking basically the same thing you asked in this thread:

Adjustable or multiple razor technique?

I’m thinking of starting out a bit more aggressive for the first pass and lower every subsequent pass.. I’m looking at adjustable or multiple razors. The 6s caught my eye but it seems to be a hate it or love it razor. The Osprey looks interesting 🤔 beautiful piece. Reviews by users here seem...

www.badgerandblade.com

Yes, AND no. Same train of thought. However this post is me coming to the realization that I may be doing something wrong, going about my problem solving the wrong way. Maybe I can learn a thing or two from someone that’s walked that path.

However, if it bothers you that much, I can delete one, or the other, or both? Just let me know how you’d like to proceed.

 

[No1Up]

I don't understand the question.

Shave it off with any razor. As long as your technique is fine, it shouldn't matter or cause irritation.

If you are getting irritation or redness, it's user error and not the razors fault.

I’ve been reading a lot on the forums, and I keep running in to (more than a few times) people doing something opposite of what I’ve thought of as “common” knowledge. The logic is actually pretty sound and has rocked my way of thinking about the matter. By user error, do you mean technique, or time between shave, or both?

 

[Alex Jr]

The only way to know is to test it. Try a mild razor with a sharp blade for some days in a row.

Then do the same with an aggressive razor and a milder blade.

Don’t change any other variables. Same soap, same prep etc…

I can tell you that I get good results with either option.

 

[brucered]

I’ve been reading a lot on the forums, and I keep running in to (more than a few times) people doing something opposite of what I’ve thought of as “common” knowledge. The logic is actually pretty sound and has rocked my way of thinking about the matter. By user error, do you mean technique, or time between shave, or both?

Technique, poor lather.

Don't worry what others are doing. Unless they are shaving your face.

Keep it simple. Don't over think it. If you get irritation from shaving daily, then shave every other day.

 

[Ouelljas]

I’m definitely in the daily shaving with a mild/medium razor and sharper blade camp nowadays. My Henson Medium with a Feather blade right now is just delivering consistent, comfortable, irritation and ingrown free shaves for me day after day. I’ve also worked towards thinner, but better hydrated and slicker lathers this way seeing that I’m not trying to mow down longer stubble, which has also contributed to better shaves. I only do two passes WTG and still get a smooth, close and comfortable shave. Having said that, shaving is such a YMMV and personal thing that a completely different routine might be what works best for you.

 

[Doc Dan]

First, I would make sure it is not your soap that is causing the irritation. Not all soaps are created equal, and also some people are sensitive to some of the ingredients on their faces where they might not be anywhere else.

Second, a milder razor like a Henson mild or medium, makes a really good daily driver unless you have gorilla hair. Then, they make an aggressive razor that will take care of all of that. However, there are a lot of people that have gorilla hair that use a milder razor. Technique is the key here.

Third, you don't say, which kind of razor that you are using. The razor might simply be wrong for you. For example, I can't stand the razorrock game changer, but most people love it. It's a great razor. It's just wrong for me.

Fourth, people that have irritation from shaving usually find relief by going to a traditional straight razor. I'm not talking about one of those that you can change the blades. I mean a traditional straight razor. These actually are very soft shaving. Even my beard takes on a different character after a couple of days of shaving with a straight razor, feeling softer overall. Of course, you have to sharpen them after say 80 or so shaves. But you can get a professional razor sharpener to take care of that problem for you without very much expense at all. And I'm inclined to urge you to try something like this, and also changing your soap.

 

[Dimitri]

A lot of good suggestions in this thread. I would also suggest going with a sensitive skin shave cream if you haven't tried one already. I'm a big fan of Proraso Blue. It has aloe and vitamit E. It's the "other" sensitive skin cream Proraso makes. Most are familiar with the White formula. The Blue also has a balm to go along with it that works pretty well. Better still is probably the Nivea "sensitive cool" aftershave balm, the one with seaweed extract. I have somewhat sensitive skin myself and if I use creams or balms with heavy frangrances, they cause me irritation. Make sure your making a rich, creamy, slick lather for the blade to glide over. You can also try a pre-shave oil.

Do you use an alum block? Alum blocks have antiseptic and astringent properties. They prevent infection from nicks and cuts, and also kill bacteria that can cause infection and inflammation. A good quality witch hazel works for me as well. You can do the alum after the shave. Rinse it off after about a minute. With your face still damp, splash on the witch hazel ( I use Thayer's unscented). Wait about a minute for that to "soak in" and then apply your balm.

Others may have different ways of dealing with irritation, but the above is mine and it works for me. YMMV of course.

 

[Brutus]

The ideal way to mow down stubble is to start with a good pre-shave.

I does not have to be an elaborate ritual, but wash you face with soap and water (ideally with a sponge or washcloth), give the skin enough water to absorb the moisture for a total of about three minutes, and then whip up a good lather and shave.
Mild or aggressive razor, it’s entirely your choice as long as you use a quality blade and razor.

The principal difference between the two razor variants is that one typically has more blade exposure while the mild one has the blade a few fractions of a millimeter recessed. An aggressive razor will give a closer shave however.

The first Golden Rule of shaving: A great shave starts with a solid pre-shave.


And don’t forget the second Golden Rule: Use minimum pressure. Even if you think you are already using light pressure, try using less the next time.
Plowing through one’s skin with tons of pressure is a bad habit that many learnt from cartridge razors.

Both rules go a long way in avoiding razor burn.



The third Golden Rule has to do with figuring out what change may improve your shave: Change only one aspect in your shave if you want to identify what works for you and what doesn’t.
If your skin is irritated and you are not sure whether you are using the wrong technique, the wrong blade, the wrong shaving soap or cream, or the wrong aftershave, change only one at a time.



B.

 

[Invicta]

Say, 24 hour stubble, your neck feels like sand paper. Is it better to get it with a mild razor or an aggressive razor?

Use any razor you have and with the correct razor technique you will be clean shaven without irritation. Razor effectiveness is mainly related to correct blade angle; Blade Angle | Badger & Blade
Also good preparation of the lather and working it in to the stubble will give you good results.
A three pass shave will give you a very close shave; don't try and achieve that with one pass.

 

[Dimitri]

I forgot to mention also that blade type can make a difference. Are you using a PTFE/Teflon coated blade like a Personna Comfort Coated, Bic Chrome Platinum, Wilkinson Sword etc.? I know that if I use a non-coated blade, like say a Perma-sharp or Feather, I will get irritation. If you are using a coated blade, then try a non-coated blade and see if that makes a dfference. As @Brutus said, change only one variable at a time. That will help isolate and identify the culprit causing your irritation.

 

[ivan_101]

I forgot to mention also that blade type can make a difference. Are you using a PTFE/Teflon coated blade like a Personna Comfort Coated, Bic Chrome Platinum, Wilkinson Sword etc.? I know that if I use a non-coated blade, like say a Perma-sharp or Feather, I will get irritation. If you are using a coated blade, then try a non-coated blade and see if that makes a dfference. As @Brutus said, change only one variable at a time. That will help isolate and identify the culprit causing your irritation.

Who told you they are uncoated? All blades made of stainless steel are coated at least with PTFE.

 

[Dimitri]

Who told you they are uncoated? All blades made of stainless steel are coated at least with PTFE.

My understanding is that all blades are coated, but not all blades are coated with PTFE. Is this not correct?

 

[ivan_101]

My understanding is that all blades are coated, but not all blades are coated with PTFE. Is this not correct?

All blades made of stainless steel have the PTFE, it is sputtered and baked after the metal coatings are applied after grinding/honing.
As a matter of fact even the simplest stainless steel models will have at least some chromium for hardness and then the PTFE is applied. So there is no uncoated stainless steel material blade. This has been the case since the early 60s. Carbon steel blades on the other hand are pretty often uncoated.

The common misconception is that blades that say 'stainless' or 'super stainless' are uncoated, but Platinum or Chrome etc., are coated. Which is absolute nonsense. All are PTFE coated.