I was honing famous Swedish steel yesterday (an MK 32). This was hard. I never had to put so much effort in a blade in order to get it in line. I was setting the bevel on a 1000 grit whetstone then went over to Dilucot without a satisfying result. Went back to my Spydercos and did a progression from medium to UF, stropped on black Dovo paste, canvas and plain leather. Had a HHT if 3-4 at the end which is below my usual standard (will shave test it today). I knew that Swedish steel was hard but this wasn't anything I honed so far. Any tips?
Stubborn blade
- Thread starter Thomas Martin
- Start date
Thomas, have you got it popping hairs off the 1k? I would also use tape on it to save the spine a little - it'll also mean you have to go through less steel to get the bevel set.
Other than that are you using any pressure or just the weight of the blade? I always start with more pressure and lighten up as I progress on the stones.
Other than that are you using any pressure or just the weight of the blade? I always start with more pressure and lighten up as I progress on the stones.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks, Paul. It shaved my arms hair after the 1000. I was honing with tape first but my stone shredded it to pieces rapidly so I refrained from using it afterwards. I was beginning with more pressure first and finished with just the weight of the blade. Perhaps I will reapply tape know and proceed with Unicot. Tonight I will give it a shave test and report. I have other blades that don't pass my HHT but shave well. We'll see.
I would suggest replacing the tape that shredded - you'll have probably set a bevel on the 1000 stone and then started to set a new bevel on the coti & Spyders so effectively going back a step.
They are made of hard steel but if you have the bevel set then you shouldn't have too much trouble getting the edge you are looking for, you'll maybe just need to spend a little more time on the stones than normal.
Unfortunately I'm not in Switzerland until the summer and then only for one night, otherwise I would have proposed to sort it for you.
If you need any more help or fancy letting me give it a try then don't hesitate to give me a shout by PM.
They are made of hard steel but if you have the bevel set then you shouldn't have too much trouble getting the edge you are looking for, you'll maybe just need to spend a little more time on the stones than normal.
Unfortunately I'm not in Switzerland until the summer and then only for one night, otherwise I would have proposed to sort it for you.
If you need any more help or fancy letting me give it a try then don't hesitate to give me a shout by PM.
Agreed with baker. With tape, you have a wider "V". Take the tape off, and now you are polishing the top chamfer of the bevel (top of the V) rather than the pointy part of the V, at least until you wear away enuff metal to flatten out that chamfer again.
- Thread starter
- #6
It was just the first few strokes on the 1K with tape. After it shredded I did of course a bevel set on the 1K without tape prior to move on to the Coti.
Re do the bevel.
- Thread starter
- #9
Ok then. I'll try that. I just don't fully understand. I honed the dull blade on a 1K until it shaved arm's hair and then moved over to finer hones. Where was I doing something wrong along the process and how would resetting the bevel prevent me from doing the same mistake again?
As I read it, you established the bevel with no tape. Resetting the bevel if you indeed set it good will do nothing different than what's already done.
- Thread starter
- #11
That's exactly what I was thinking. But the statements above come from people with much more experience and knowledge than myself.
I can't answer for them but once it's set, it's set. No need to put additional wear on the razor if not needed.
ALWAYS use electrical or some sorta tae for the spine..so you dont increase honewear on the spine..but it glides much easier with tape anyways....stay on your 1k til the edge gets sharp..if you press too hard you can scratch the blade and can reduce your edge again from being sharp..I slightly did it once..and only once to learn my lesson...
..if the edge IS sharp enough as it easily "pops" armhair off..then move on to your next stones
..if the edge IS sharp enough as it easily "pops" armhair off..then move on to your next stones- Thread starter
- #16
I don't use tape in general. When you're honing you have to remove material from the spine at the same rate as from the edge. If not, the angle if your bevel becomes more obtuse with each honing and will ultimately become unsharpable. I know that this us a controversial subject and this is just my point if view.
