Straight restoration with a rotary tool

[Storer50]

Would using a rotary tool be better than sandpaper? Does anyone have any tips on restoration using a dremel? thanks

 

[luvmysuper]

I just saw a picture of a really nasty butcher job done on a beautiful straight with a dremel.
My guess would be that if you don't have the eye-hand coordination of a brain surgeon that sandpaper would be the safer bet.

 

[SliceOfLife]

It can be done. I used one to remove large chips before I got my belt sander. First attempt was memorable though. I angled it in too much, it caught the edge of the chip and ripped the blade in half.

As for rust removal. Dremel is the best tool I can think of for the tang. On the spine? Less so (I only use methods that ensure even wear on my spines). On the side of the blade and near the edge it works great though. I've heard of people wearing extra-hollows too thin, but I've yet to come anywhere close to that amount of material removal. Just remember it's going to take a lot of hand sanding to remove the dremel marks afterwards. So unless the blade is in really rough shape it may not save any time to use the dremel.

Dont use it on high speed. It really isn't THAT aggressive on 1-2 (my B&D is 1-6)

 

[John C]

I tried using a rotary tool on my first blade, and don't recommend it. It actually just about as fast to use sandpaper and work the blade evenly up through the progression. Like SliceOfLife said, one small quick slip with a dremmel equals several hours of hand sanding. There are folks that use dremmels with great results, so YMMV. If you do use one, make sure that you use the proper PPE. Gloves, mask, and eyeprotection at least.
Metal flake in the eye *is not* a pleasant way to spend a weekend.

cheers,

 

[SliceOfLife]

Oh yes.

Someone post the "Carol didn't wear her goggles..." poster please.


Dremel's should come with a Big Sticker cementing them into their case which reads in bold red... "WEAR GOGGLES!"


Here we go, found it.

 

[mainaman]

Yes it can be done with the right supporting tools
Here is how I do It:
http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/workshop/48576-blade-restoration-using-dremel.html

 

[John C]

Yes it can be done with the right supporting tools
Here is how I do It:
http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/workshop/48576-blade-restoration-using-dremel.html

nice tutorial!! Thanks!

 

[mainaman]

nice tutorial!! Thanks!

hope it is useful to someone.
It is very usefull to have the magnetic backed jig , that greatly reduces the risk of damaging the blade while sanding close to the edge. In fact if the razor lies flat on the jig you can't damage the edge/blade.

 

[SliceOfLife]

Clever, but I'm concerned that the part of the sleeve with the drum under it would exert more pressure than the rest of the sleeve and cut deeper, Do you find that isn't the case?

 

[mainaman]

Clever, but I'm concerned that the part of the sleeve with the drum under it would exert more pressure than the rest of the sleeve and cut deeper, Do you find that isn't the case?

If you control the pressure its not a problem. I found that only if I press to hard the drum will hit the blade harder. The whole sanding process is done with very little pressure. The real trick is how to move the spinning sleeve with respect to the blade, here is what the tutorial that Caswell has say:

1. CUT MOTION gives you:- SMOOTH SURFACE, SEMI-BRIGHT & UNIFORM.
The workpiece should be moved AGAINST the direction of the wheel, using a MEDIUM to HARD pressure.

2. COLOR MOTION gives you:- BRIGHT, SHINY & CLEAN SURFACE. The workpiece should be moved TOWARD the direction of the wheel, using a MEDIUM to LIGHT pressure.

here is the link to the whole article:
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

I I used both cut and polish motion and with the right pressure 4 razor blades were done with one sleeve of each grit per 2 razors.
I already tumbled one for ~6 hours and I achieved very nice mirror after hand polishing with Maas.