SE technique questions

[Teppanyaki]

I'm now 2-3 weeks into SE shaving, and I'm wondering how much my technique is lacking. I'm trying out various 1912's, but generally sticking to a Damaskeene or a Junior paired with GEM carbon blades (changed after 4 shaves or so). I shave as usual - a WTG pass (north to south) and a XTG pass (ear to nose). Jawline and neck are both north to south. I try for minimal pressure, shower or 3 min hot towel prep and a lather from Mike's as usual.

I'm finding that my shaves aren't quite as good as with my DE razors (or at least the ones that shave very well for me!), with occasional bits of hair not shaved very close and occasional irritation/nicks at the sides of my chin. The neck doesn't shave quite as close, either.

If I shave as close to parallel (head on my face) and then lift up just until it starts to cut, it's not as close of a shave but less irritating. If I go for 30 degrees, it's more irritating and nick prone. Either way, it feels like something is lacking.

The 1912's definitely glide more easily, and I really enjoy the "spreading butter on toast" sound. I just wish I could get them to shave as closely and as forgivingly as my News.

How much of this is just my learning SE razor technique, and how much is something else? I'm probably still going to experiment with them, but I do wonder.

 

[Mick]

SE will give a perfect shave once you get it sorted out. It is not the razor.

 

[dcobranchi]

I agree. It's technique at this point. GEM was the company that popularized the term 5 o'clock shadow. Their advertising claimed that their razors beat it. And it wasn't just hype.

 

[TacticalPanda]

Eventually your technique will get to the point where you will feel the tactile response from the razor and won't have to look for a certain angle. Each SE razor is a little different, keep going with it, the Damaskeene is a very forgiving razor.

 

[MacDaddy]

Try taking shorter strokes at first, almost like you were blade buffing. Also, I find that the improvement from learning to take slanted strokes, if you don't already, is significantly more noticeable with an SE than with a DE, perhaps because of the thickness of the blade.

My angle with any of the 1912-style variants is definitely shallower than 30 degrees, too -- probably more like 15-20.

 

[tom myers]

Is there a reason that you are using carbon steel blades? I use a SE every day and have for some years and I find that I get the best shave from the Gem stainless steel PTFE coated blades.

In my extensive comparative testing, I have not found a razor / blade combination that will give a better or more comfortable shave. The 1912 is one of the best designs out there.

Regards,
Tom

 

[Klopstick]

Sounds like you need to do some beard mapping and work on your multi-pass technique. http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/315432-Beard-Mapping-how. Also try holding the blade at a slight angle to the direction of travel to give a slicing action.

 

[Teppanyaki]

Thanks all! I think I will try more of a "Gillette slide" and try the coated blades (I thought the carbons were supposed to be best, then stainless).

 

[morseman]

For me the carbon blades are a little bit sharper, but not as smooth as the ptfe coated blades.

 

[Galhatz]

I once used carbon blades in an open comb micromatic and it took my face two weeks to recover.
The PTFE coated blades work much better, for me.

I would also try the Clog Pruf and Bullet Tip razors. They are inexpensive and deliver a different shave experience.
The Ever Ready 1914 is also excellent, and I find it easier to get a closer shave with than with the 1912 variants, though it can bite if pushed.

 

[gzp]

I've got only four shaves so far with Gems, my experience with a 1912 was the same as yours. My fourth shave was with a Micromatic Clog Pruf and a stainless blade, that shave was on par with what I'm used to with DE's. I'm figuring the adjustment in technique is probably greater with the 1912 for some reason and it's probably just a matter of sticking with it.

 

[Mr. Flay]

Is there a reason that you are using carbon steel blades? I use a SE every day and have for some years and I find that I get the best shave from the Gem stainless steel PTFE coated blades.

For me the carbon blades are a little bit sharper, but not as smooth as the ptfe coated blades.

I once used carbon blades in an open comb micromatic and it took my face two weeks to recover.
The PTFE coated blades work much better, for me.

I would also try the Clog Pruf and Bullet Tip razors. They are inexpensive and deliver a different shave experience.
The Ever Ready 1914 is also excellent, and I find it easier to get a closer shave with than with the 1912 variants, though it can bite if pushed.

Just balance out the blade debate a wee bit: I've done a lot of SE shaving myself and have decided that the best blades for me are the carbon steel. The require a bit more maintenance than the stainless and coated, but on average I'm much more satisfied with the results. Perhaps it's the sharpness issue, I can't say specifically. I'd say give all the different types a fair chance before choosing your path. You may or may not see enough differences among them to finally commit to your favorite. You'll probably need to have a stable technique developed before you can make a final judgement on the blades.

I've often extolled the virtues of the Clog-Pruf as my favorite in the Micromatic line, but truth be told, but over time I've accepted that I personally get better results with the 1912 design (I loves my Gem Juniors).

I agree with the other fellows here that once technique is mastered, you can't beat a single edged shave. Go slow, give yourself some time to get really (intuitively?) comfortable with a specific single edge design rather that jumping around model to model. A "razor of the week" approach, perhaps. I've done "razor of the month" a few times and I at the end of each I was really glad I did.